Road Trip to County Donegal

County Donegal
Just over a week ago, I had the opportunity to go on a two-day road trip to County Donegal with one of the cooks at Corrymeela and his wife. Before returning to Northern Ireland this time, I wanted to see if there would be some way to get to Donegal and I am very grateful for this opportunity. While the distance to get there and back from Corrymeela is not like the distances we often drive in much of Canada, it is not easy to make the journey via public transportation because parts Donegal are quite remote and also because it is in another country and the transportation systems are fully integrated.

County Donegal is on the northwest corner of the island and is almost completely surrounded by Northern Ireland even though it is part of the Republic of Ireland or, as many locals say, "the South." . Quite a lot of County Donegal can readily be described as remote and, with the remoteness, comes a great deal of natural beauty particularly in the coastal areas. The economy of the county is built on farming, fishing, tourism in places and certain cottage industries. One example is Donegal tweed.

The most northerly point on the island is a place called Malin Head.As you can see below, the scenery at Malin Head is spectacular. The topography in this area and other parts of the county remind me of what it like in the highlands of Scotland.

 

After spending some time at Malin Head and a few places near there, we headed to the town of Carndonagh where we stopped for lunch at a nice cafe. Like so many small towns in Northern Ireland and the Republic, Carndonagh has its own charm and colour.

Our next destination was Buncrana, where we stayed over night in quite a large hotel. Not fancy, but very comfortable and the price was good. After checking in, we took a drive to the coast near the village of Doagh. Again, we were treated to some great views and found our way to the water's edge by accident. While there is plenty of evidence of farming and peat harvesting (for heat), the area leaves one with the impression that people are living a very basic existence.

As the sun started to drop noticeably, we headed back to the hotel for a great evening of conversation, good food and refreshments. I had the first Smithwicks since returning to Northern Ireland and topped off the evening with a "measure" of Bushmills. I am a much bigger fan of single malts from Scotland, but wouldn't normally turn down a Bushmills, especially Black Bush.

The next morning, our destination was the town of Donegal and the journey took us through the Letterkenny (largest place in the country), Ballybofey and a few really small places. On the way to Donegal town, we drove through the Blue Stack Mountains, which certainly reminded me of the mountains in Scotland. Not really mountains compared to what we have in British Columbia, but beautiful nevertheless.

We spent some time in Donegal town just looking around. While smaller, it reminded me of Kilkenny in the Republic because it has many stores with all the Irish souvenirs one can ever imagine for foreign tourists to take home for their friends and family. We did not make any purchases!! Other than the heavily commercial aspects of the town, it is quite attractive.

From Donegal, we headed south to the towns of Ballyshannon and Bundoran, both are seaside towns with beaches, amusement/game outlets, hotels, camping, etc. Ballyshannon claims to be the oldest town in Ireland. I've heard (obviously cannot verify) that both towns purportedly were enclaves for the IRA before and during the Troubles. As with so many of these things, it's hard to know what is truth and what is not, but it makes a good story if nothing more.

Getting in the early afternoon, we had to start the journey back to Corrymeela. We made a couple of stops with the longest being in Enniskillen, where we had a late lunch. Thereafter, it was straightforward driving to complete the road trip.

 

Life in Northern Ireland

Coffee & Tea
Most people who know me also know that I enjoy good quality coffee. While I have found a few good coffee shops, including one Starbucks in Belfast, this is not a coffee culture like on the west coast of Canada and the US Pacific Northwest. I have yet to find good quality coffee in any supermarket here, which is one of the reasons why I brought a pound of fair trade dark roast coffee with me. This package of coffee has been looked at longingly by one of the Americans here. I got to the bottom of the bag this morning and thankfully had some Starbucks as a replacements.

One of the other intriguing things about coffee brewing here is that a pot may be brewed in the morning and then sit in the pot over a heated burner for several hours. Not appealing! That's one reason why I also brought my own French press coffee tumbler with me.

I must admit that I drink a lot more tea here than at home. In fact, I'd say that I have more tea in the past six weeks here than during the last year at home. The tea culture is great because it is something that truly brings people together for conversations and people always seem to make time for a cup of tea.

Corrymeela Monthly All-site Meetings
One of the highlights for me is a monthly meeting when all of the staff and volunteers gather for a meeting led by the centre director. It's a time of sharing information, announcements, introducing new volunteers on site and a bit of fun. At the last meeting, we concluded with everyone doing the Hokey Pokey! Lots of fun.


Canada from an Irish Perspective
Quite regularly, I get asked what part of America I am from. Once I set the record straight that I am from Canada, there's a quick apologize and then great praise. Canada is generally looked at very positively by the Irish as well as the volunteers from various countries.While I am not a flag waving Canada nationalist, I must admit that it is a good feeling to hear these positive comments. At the same time, people are increasingly aware that Canada is getting tougher on its immigration policies and that we do not have a good track record on environmental protection. The big appeal for most of the Irish seems to be the peacefully society we have in Canada compared to their experience.

Compared to the history of conflict and its associated legacy in Northern Ireland, we have much to be proud of in Canada. At the same time, however, there is a lot of work to be done on environmental protection front at home and in places where Canadian resource companies work, on matters of social justice and an array of aboriginal/First Nations matters.

Flag Issue in Belfast
If you have followed any news from Northern Ireland over the past few months, you have most likely hear about the protests in Belfast related to the Union Jack flag. A few months ago, city council in Belfast decided to significantly reduce the number of days per year that the Union Jack would fly from city hall (from 365 to 18 days). This decision immediately evoked an outcry from the loyalist segment accompanied by many violent demonstrations such as fire bombs, property damage and attacks on police. One of the loyalist arguments is that the flag flying decision poses a threat to Northern Ireland remaining part of the United Kingdom. As one would expect, these protests have received a great deal of media attention at home and abroad.

There seems to be a great deal of consensus that these protests are being instigated by loyalist para-military groups. There has also been much speculation that the protests have more to do with distracting the police from their normal duties than about the change in the flag. A few weeks ago, a local Belfast newspaper printed the pictures (captured by CCTV) of several people involved in the protests, asking the public's help in identifying the the purported rioters. The move of using pictures captured by CCTV is similar to what happened in Vancouver following the Stanley Cup riot of two years ago. I haven't heard if there's been any success to finding and charging these people. 

A recent poll by the BBC indicates that support is greater for the Union Jack to fly 18 days/year than 365 days - 44 % vs. 35 %. Another 10 % feel the Union Jack should never fly at city hall. Despite the divided opinion on the flag issue, there is solid support for remaining part of the UK vs. independence (65 % vs. 17 %). However, support for remaining part of the UK is much higher among Protestants (90 %) than Catholics (38 %). While the flag issue has not devolved into sectarian violence, religion continues to be strongly linked to opinions on political and social issues in Northern Ireland.

While not a scientific measure of public sentiment, all the people I have talked to about the flag issue simply want the protests to go away.

Corrymeela Work
Recently, I have had the opportunity to be part of the facilitation team for two large groups (separate adult and teen groups) that have been involved with a program designed to bring people together from communities near the border in Northern Ireland and the Irish Republic. It was incredibly interesting to hear people talk about the sharing of their stories, commonalities, differences and experiences. Helping build bridges across the borders is one good example of the initiatives that Corrymeela supports and to which it can make an important contribution. These sessions are a greater reminder of the importance of dialogue and communication in building understanding and contributing to the peace process.

The newest building at Corrymeela - Davey Village

Named after Ray Davey the founder 

A recent sunset at Corrymeela

Returning to Northern Ireland - January 2013

Where am I?
I am in Northern Ireland for three months of volunteering at Corrymeela - the same place where I volunteered exactly two years ago. Before departing home on Jan. 12, it was my intention to start blogging right away. Obviously, this has not been the case because life is busy here and I'd forgotten that "blog time" is difficult to find.

What is Corrymeela?
Founded in 1965, the mission of Corrymeela is to "embrace difference, heal divisions and enable reconciliation." Since its creation, the organization has played an important role in providing a safe place for conversation and dialogue related to the divisions/conflicts of Ireland, most especially Northern Ireland, as well as an array of other topics.

What am I doing here?
My role as a mid-term volunteer (3 months) involves a variety of tasks and responsibilities almost entirely related to a supporting groups that come to Corrymeela for residential or day sessions. These groups are an eclectic mix of groups - youth, schools, adults and community groups. Check out the Corrymeela website if you'd like to know more about the organization and its mission. http://www.corrymeela.org/.

Much of the work Corrymeela does with groups is lead by one-year volunteers from around the world and mostly in the 20-30 age range. The one-year volunteers are trained in various aspects of facilitation and other volunteers, such as me, support this work. All of us contribute to the work of Corrymeela through assisting with team building activities, welcoming people, providing hospitality, spending time with the groups, supporting aspects of the meal production, cleaning and other things.

Expectations
As I prepared to return to Corrymeela, I was intentional in not wanting to come with expectations based only on first volunteering stint here. While I knew some things would be familiar, I also knew there would be many differences. The past three weeks have indeed been a mix of the familiar and the unfamiliar.


To start with, I knew what to expect when I arrived at the city airport in Belfast and also that I'd receive a warm welcome at the airport from a friend who works at Corrymeela. Then, the drive to Corrymeela the next morning provided many familiar sites, particularly when we got near the town of Ballycastle (where the Corrymeela centre is located). One of the things that was immediately familiar was the first sighting of Fairhead; a massive headland that rises sharply above the sea to about 200 metres. It is just around the corner from where Corrymeela is located.

My heart was really warmed when arriving at Corrymeela and reconnecting with so many people I had gotten to know two years ago. I felt at home immediately! It has been great to meet new staff and my volunteer colleagues. I had met one of the volunteers when in Nepal last spring with Habitat for Humanity. In discussion with one of the year-long volunteers from Belfast, we determined that we likely had met two years ago when he was here with a residential group. Within a few days, I was also able to re-connect face-to-face with a one-year volunteer knew from two years ago. Lots of hugs and a joyous reunion. I've also had the opportunity to renew connections with other volunteers.

Settling into the community here has been straightforward for the most part, but it does take a bit of time to get to know people and learn their personalities, interests and style. And, I expect it is the same for them as they wonder about this older person from Canada who has arrived.

Day-to-Day Routine
I've been asked by a number of people at home, what an average day at Corrymeela looks like. I honestly don't think there is a "normal" day here because of the mix of groups as well as the different people one works with from day-to-day and the varied tasks one takes on. Nevertheless, there are some general patterns repeated from week to week. Much of Mondays is focused on aspects of community life (meetings, cleaning, training, fun activities, house dinner, etc.), with usually only one or no groups on site. At the risk of generalizing, the period from Tuesday to early afternoon on Sunday is focused on day and residential groups. Many weekday groups depart on Friday and new groups arrive late in the afternoon or early evening. The latter groups usually depart by 2:00 pm on Sunday, which is followed by cleaning and then much-needed relaxation. That is truly a simple description of life here because there are so many complexities and nuances that one pretty much has to experience life at Corrymeela to truly appreciate it.

Language and Expressions
One thing that I had sort of forgotten was the accents, language and expressions used in Northern Ireland. That memory lapse did not last long!!! There are accents in different parts of the country and, while, I cannot differentiate all of them, I can usually identify a Belfast accent.

Generally, I find I am able to follow and understand most people, but certainly that is not always the case. Because many people talk quickly, have an unfamiliar accent and use different expressions, it takes effort to follow conversations at times. Much conversation is sprinkled with humour, which makes it even more interesting. Sometimes, the best thing to do is simply nod in agreement and smile. I'll try to remember specific examples for a future posting.

Plan "B"
Last Monday (Jan. 28), a training session about the Troubles was canceled with short notice, so plan "B" came into effect. Plan "B" was a trip to a popular attraction near Corrymeela called the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. It is a well known (some would even say famous) rope bridge that links the mainland of NI to a tiny island called Carrickarede. The bridge spans about 20 metres and sits about 30 metres above the rocks and water below. It is principally a tourist attraction located in area owned and managed by the National Trust. The bridge sways a bit, but is well enclosed and safe.

In addition to walking across the bridge, we were treated to some spectacular views of the Antrim Coast including some islands off the west coast of Scotland.


Trip to Belfast
For a short break this week, I traveled to Belfast by bus for an overnight stay and most of two days. When there, I visited some familiar places near city hall and the centre of the city as well as the Queen's University area; I also toured the Titanic Museum, which opened in 2012. It's an impressive museum that documents in detail the construction of the Titanic, its launch and sinking. I found virtually all of the museum to be of interest, but the part that worked best for me was the historical information about the social fabric, manufacturing and industrial life of Belfast during the period leading up to and during construction of the Titanic. Belfast was a major ship building centre, maybe the largest in the world at one point. Its linen mills produced more of this product than any other place.

Titanic Museum

The Big Fish

The Big Fish is a painted ceramic mosaic sculpture about 10 metres long overlooking the harbour. The ceramic tiles are decorated with text and images related to the history of Belfast. While the size makes it stand out from a distance, one has to get up close to truly appreciate it.

Favourite Places
I've been to Belfast a number of times and have a few favourite places to visit. One is a small bookstore called "No Alibis," which has a great collection of mystery novels. It has other stuff, but the mystery books stand out for me. Another favourite is the Common Grounds Cafe.It is a not-for-profit business that gives away its profits to support humanitarian projects in the developing world. Beside these values, it has top notch coffee and good eats.

Another favourite is the Ulster Museum. This was my third visit there (admission is free) and I went specifically to spend time in the section dedicated to The Troubles. I expect I'll do this again.

The Troubles
Most likely, there will be occasional mention of The Troubles in my posts about NI. Many, many volumes have been written about The Troubles and it comes up regularly in conversations with people at Corrymeela and elsewhere. Here's a very brief definition, but please remember that it is a complex and complicated topic. "The Troubles" generally refer to a period of heightened conflict in Northern Ireland that extended at times to the Republic of Ireland, England and even further afield. In 1972, the shooting of 14 civilians by British Soldiers in Derry was a seminal event in escalating conflicts into widespread violence - Jan. 30, 1972 is known as "Bloody Monday."

The period for The Troubles is considered to be from the late 1960s through the "Good Friday Agreement" signed in 1998, but some consider the time frame to be slightly different. The single worst atrocity of The Troubles occurred in 1998 in the town of Omagh (County Tyrone) when 29 people and unborn twins were killed by a car bomb. This incident is the subject of a movie named after Omagh, which is well worth watching.

One of several panels at Ulster Museum

Even today, violence or threats of violence occur from time to time, with the recent violent protests in Belfast over a significant decrease in the number of days the Union Jack will be flown at city hall. This violence has erupted in fire bombs, attacks on police and the destruction of property. Another example occurs annually during the so-called "Marching Season" which are marked with parades (often lead by the Orange Order) that incite violence in certain situations.

The principal issue at the centre of The Troubles relates to the constitutional status of Northern Ireland and relationships between the unionist and nationalist groups and communities in Northern Ireland. These conflicts are layered with social, sectarian and economic dimensions.While The Troubles are over, people are still dealing with the legacy and damage of the violence. It is common to see stories in the media related to some aspect of the violence during this period. Much peace building, healing and reconciliation is still needed.

A Few Other Belfast Observations
Belfast city proper has a population a bit over 300 thousand and more than a half-million live in the greater Belfast area. Many of the Belfast sights are easily accessible by foot and, even when a taxi or bus may be required, the distances are not long. When walking around the downtown core within a few blocks of city hall, I noticed a greater police presence than was the case in this area two years ago. This is undoubtedly related to the recent violence over the "flag issue." Since arriving here, the issue is a fairly common conversation topic and it gains plenty of media attention.

I have plans to see more of Northern Ireland and even make a trip to Dublin before heading home in early April, so stay tuned.

Example of a vista seen from Corrymeela