Australia Gold Coast - April 2015

Next Stop - Aussie Gold Coast
After a fantastic month on the North Island of New Zealand, the next stop was the Gold Coast of Australia. More specifically, the town of Lennox Head, where my long-time friend Jim lives. When I say long-time friend, I mean it. Our friendship started in the fall of 1972 when we started graduate studies at the University of Waterloo (Canada). A friendship of almost 43 years is quite rare and, thanks to email we've had more regular contact in the past decade or so than in the years immediately after finishing grad school and going off to establish careers. We have connected in person a few times over the years with the most previous being in England in 2007 when I visited him in Durham where he was faculty at Durham University. This was my first time to visit him in Australia and, in fact, my first time in that country.

As was the case in grad school, our conversations quickly got into spirited discussions about a wide range of topics - politics, education, race, justice, travel, families, etc. Other than catching up on some details of life, it was like our conversations picked up where they were last left. Our conversations evoked memories of similar discussions from years past when we were usually joined by one or more friends at the on-campus grad house or at the townhouse we rented with another friend. It didn't take long to once again engage in more substantive conversation. Mind you, there were many times that stories from the past surfaced to provide much laughter - some things that had been forgotten and other things I sort of wish I couldn't remember.

Lennox Head is a seaside town of about 10,000 in New South Wales located between Byron Bay and the local government town of Ballina. The town of Lennox Head has grown in recent years and continues to be a very popular destination with surfers, beach fans and others. There is a headland with a 65 metre cliff that is popular with hang gliders. Dolphins and whales are another frequent attraction. Geologically, there is a large amount of basaltic lava spread across the area, which can present significant danger for surfers not familiar with the local currents.

Initial photos in/near Lennox Head

 

It takes three hours for a direct flight from Auckland to Coolangatta (main international airport for Lennox Head). The flight was fine and it didn't take too long to get into the arrivals area to connect with Jim. Like any new place, I am immediately draw to what was there, so the drive to his house with a couple of stops was a great orientation to a beautiful part of the world. Except for walking on a beach, I am not much into swimming or working on my tan, but I very much appreciate the beauty of the wide and long sandy beaches and seemingly endless sky. The environment invites relaxation and I can understand why Jim moved to Lennox Head.

On the first evening, we went out for dinner at Foam. http://www.foamlennox.com/. It was a fantastic evening and everything was perfect - food, wine, service, location overlooking the beach and conversation. The people who own Foam and their staff are top notch in every sense - friendly, knowledgeable and helpful. We went there again for dinner and also stopped a number of time for a morning coffee and a light breakfast. The food quality and the recommended wine pairings were exceptional. While the place has lots of class, it is not at all pretentious. Completely enjoyed these experiences!

Johnny Cash Revisited
One of the highlights of day two was going to a Johnny Cash concert performed by an Aussie named Daniel Thompson. He is a fine performer and did a great job of providing the authentic sound and style of Cash. I've been a fan of Cash for a long time, so this was a very good choice.

After the Cash event, we headed off to meet some of Jim's friends for dinner. The attention of many people at the pub style restaurant was on the final match of the cricket world cup (Australia vs. New Zealand). The Aussie crowd was pleased to see their country be victorious. While I watched some of these games in New Zealand, I can honestly say that it is a sport that so far has eluded me in terms of understanding it. When it comes to describing cricket, I think this quote from Bill Bryson in his book "In a Sunburned Country" nicely summarizes my sentiments: "It is not true that the English invented cricket as a way of making all other human endeavors look interesting and lively; that was merely an unintended side effect. ...It is the only sport that incorporates meal breaks. It is the only sport that shares its name with an insect. It is the only sport in which spectators burn as many calories as the players-more if they are moderately restless."


Byron Bay
One of the most popular destinations on the Gold Coast is Byron Bay, where the surf and beaches are big attractions. I think I'd describe the town as quaint in some respects, but it just seems to be too popular which, of course, means it is crowded with more than enough traffic. Finding a parking spot is about as rare as a surfer catching the "big wave." First thing in Byron Bay was when Jim dropped me at the foot of the hill on which the famous Byron Bay lighthouse is located. I walked to the top and enjoyed the scenery all the way. While there were lots of other folks out for a walk up to the lighthouse, it was not crowded and it was nice to get out and get a bit of exercise and fresh air after a few days that were quite sedentary. 

An unexpected surprise near the top was seeing a wallaby munching away on grass. Near the same spot, I was told by another hiker that there was a pod of dolphins off shore a bit, but I could barely see evidence of this and unfortunately my camera wasn't able to zoom in on the pod. This is the most easterly point in Australia and a nice complement to having visited Gisborne, NZ, which is the first place the sun rises due to its proximity to the international dateline.

Out and About
Over the next few days, we explored the countryside and areas near Lennox Head - fun and interesting. We drove through rural areas where macadamias, avocados, coffee and sugar cane are grown. Of the crops for commercial purposes, I was surprised that so much coffee was grown in this area. I had never thought of Australia as being a country known for its coffee production, but some of the best coffee I've ever had was there and also in New Zealand. Another travel discovery!

 

On one drive, we stopped adjacent to a small school with a pottery shop (Red Door Studio) across the road. We engaged the teacher in conversation (I think she was just checking us out to ensure we were there for legitimate reasons). Once we introduced ourselves and why we stopped, she was very engaging and we learned that the school had only 24 students with what seemed like a great community-based approach to education. We came across quite a few of these small schools when driving in the countryside. We next checked out the pottery studio and had another great conversation with the owner - a talented and and spunky potter named Brooke Clunie. Check her website http://www.brookeclunie.com/. These are the kind of experiences that make exploration and travel so fascinating.

In just a few days, it was great to meet so many welcoming and warm local people. In Lennox Head, I was already getting to know some folks in a couple of cafes and restaurants!

One day, we took a bit of a further drive to the colourful hippie town of Nimbin!!! A truly unique place where people wear tie-dyed clothing that also can be purchased in many shops. There are many backpacker hostels, dreadlocked locals and visitors, and a whole lot more. Within a minute of getting out of the car, a young man walked past me just a couple of feet away and asked if I wanted to "buy some weed." I respectfully declined the offer. Jim was reading a poster on a store window and didn't even see what happened - good for a few laughs.

On another note, Nimbin is known for local environmental and sustainability initiatives as well as having a cannabis counterculture. The town has multi-colured benches and a street called Alternative Way - a most suitable street name. It is also the home of the Nimbin Hemp Embassy. Nimbin is a truly iconic town and well worth a visit if you're in the area. People wanting to "drop out" are drawn to the town, including non-Aussies. Interests in new development projects have been strongly resisted by locals.

A big highlight was going to the World Heritage Nightcap National Park for a walk through rain forest to Protesters Falls. The falls acquired its name from citizen protests in the Terania Creek area in the late 1970s that saved the pristine forest and protected threatened species from being decimated by logging. The efforts of the protestors have left a very important habitat protected for wildlife and humans to enjoy. After walking about 15 minutes through steamy, dipping forest you arrive at the foot of a 30 metre high falls. While not especially high, it seems dramatic because of its closeness. The rain forest has a variety of large trees on the scale of what we have on coastal BC, but of different species of course. We only saw three other people at the beginning of the walk and then the only thing we could hear was the waterfalls and birds. Idyllic! The park is only about an hour away from the sandy beaches and warm water off Lennox Head.

While we experienced a couple of days with quite a few rain showers and overcast sky, the sun shone on my last full day on the Gold Coast. Despite the weather, we got out to see the countryside on another trip - this time to Minyon Falls. The falls are 100 metres high and located in a lush, heavily forested area. We stopped first at a viewing platform across from the falls that provided an excellent view of the size of the falls and the setting. Then we drove to another viewing platform located beside where the river drops off at the top of the falls for a close view. Another subtropical rain forest - so much beauty there.

So long for now.....
A great time in Lennox Head and area! As I reflect on hanging out with my long-time friend, here's an appropriate quote.

"Life may scatter and keep us apart; it may prevent us from thinking very often of one another; but we know that our comrades are somewhere 'out there' - where, one can hardly say - silent, forgotten, but deeply faithful. And when our path crosses theirs, they greet us with such magnificent joy, shake us so gaily by the shoulders! Indeed we are accustomed to waiting." - Antoine Saint Exupery

New Zealand - March 2015

Kia Ora
A Maori expression often used to welcome people to New Zealand. From my experience of spending a month there (March), New Zealanders are welcoming and friendly with a good sense of humour and adventuresome spirit. It is a country that I have wanted to visit for many years and I am grateful that I was able to do so by leading a Habitat for Humanity Global Village trip there.

At close to 14 hours, the flight from Vancouver to Auckland is long! With the long flight, time difference (19 hours) and crossing the international date line, it means you lose a day by the time you arrive. The flight arrived in the early morning (5:25 am) on March 3 and, while I was tired from the travel, entry into the country was straightforward though a bit slow. NZ is rigorous in screening for certain things not allowed into the country such as certain foods and plants. While packaged food items such as granola bars are allowed in, many other foods are not allowed especially if they are not packaged. Hiking and camping equipment are checked to ensure they are clean from dirt. My hiking boots were checked, but there were no problems because I had cleaned them before leaving home. Luggage is scanned, so it is not a good idea to try to slip anything illegal into the country.

After getting through customs and immigration, I found my way into the public arrivals area. My first mission was to purchase a Sim card and call time for my international cell phone, which was easy to get done with a Vodafone stand close at hand. Then, it was time to enjoy a good coffee before heading to the shuttle bus service to downtown Auckland. The shuttle service is a good transportation option and is reasonably priced at $16/one way and $28/round trip. Taxis are expensive, so the shuttle service is a much better for a single traveler. A taxi for the same distance is likely to cost about $60-$70. From the bus drop-off location on the harbour, it was a short taxi ride to the hotel where I spent four nights. On most Global Village trips, I always arrive a few days early so there is an opportunity to get over jet lag and travel fatigue as well as do some exploring that might be useful for the team.

Exploring Auckland

My hotel was called the Parnell Inn and located in the trendy neighbourhood called Parnell Village. It is a small, quiet area about a 15-20 minute walk from the downtown harbour, which I did a few times. Parnell Village is located at an elevation higher than the downtown, which provides reasonably good views of the city. There are plenty of boutiques, specialty shops, wine shops, art stores and cafes.

After settling into my room a bit and getting cleaned up, it was time for a walk around the neighbourhood to get some sun and fresh air. While my energy level was low, it was great to get out and moving. Directly across from the hotel, I found a great cafe with excellent coffee and breakfast offerings. The rest of the day was relaxed and mostly involved planning for the next few days.

After a good breakfast on the second morning in Auckland, I walked to the top of Mt. Eden (Maungawhau is its Maori name). At about 200 metres elevation, it is highest point (called a cone) in Auckland and provides superb views of the city and surrounding area. Back in the day (well before I was born), it was a volcano with a crater. The only evidence of a volcano is a large bowl in the ground covered with grass, so it simply doesn't seem like it could have been an active volcano at one time. Maungawhau is considered as a sacred place and people are not allowed to go into the crater. Aign at the top of Mt. Eden told me that was 11,362 km from Vancouver. 

 
After exploring Mt. Eden, I returned to Parnell Village on a different route; after a short stop at the hotel, I walked downtown to the harbour. For some reason, Auckland doesn't have the feel of a major commercial harbour, but it is the jumping off point for cruise ships, commercial transportation and ferries to many off-shore islands as well as the north side of the harbour. There were many high-end sailing vessels in port as Auckland is one of the stops in the Volvo Ocean Race.

After a good sleep and another fine breakfast, day three started by walking back to the harbour again and taking the 10-minute foot passenger ferry crossing to Devonport on the north side of the harbour (day trip recommended from a friend who lives in Nelson, NZ). The village at Devonport is small, but has plenty of interesting shops to explore, including a used bookstore with a diverse collection. There are several restaurants and cafes, so one doesn't have to worry about going hungry or thirsty. A short walk from the village takes you to a couple of parks with another option being the walk to the top of Victoria Peak. It is not high in terms of elevation, but its location means that it provides very good unobstructed views of downtown Auckland, the harbour bridge, and more. I had fun in Devonport and felt it would be a good place to take the team (Global Village) for dinner on one of our R&R evenings. Furthermore, any village with a store called Ike's Emporium is well worth a second visit.

Ferry terminal building

Downtown harbour view from Devonport ferry

Downtown harbour view from Victoria Peak (Devonport)

After taking the short ferry ride back to the city, I walked to the hotel and again walked past Fraser Park. Seems like the clan also spread its wings in this part of the world too.

On my third day in Auckland, I took time to relax and enjoy a leisurely breakfast before going on a long walk to explore other areas of the city adjacent to Parnell Village. Only a few minutes into my walk, I stopped to check out the Holy Trinity Cathedral. On my way to Mt. Eden two days earlier I had passed the cathedral, but there was a large funeral/memorial service underway, so decided to return when it would be possible to visit. As cathedrals go, it is only a few years old having has its foundation stone put in place in 1957. I appreciated that the cathedral was open to visitors with no entrance fee and that I was able to wonder around the sanctuary and public areas of the building. The design is modern and much brighter than most of the old cathedrals seen around the world. However, one significant feature that gives it a more traditional feel are the impressive stained glass windows.

Housing Costs in New Zealand
As the time wound down for me to shift to a motel near the airport to meet other people on my team, I started focusing more intently on the upcoming Habitat build and what we would be doing in just a couple of days. On my last morning at the Parnell Inn, I crossed the street to my favourite breakfast spot. After placing food order and getting a coffee, I started working my way through the NZ Herald newspaper weekend edition (it's huge) and came across a piece entitled "More suburbs join $1m club." Housing is always an interesting topic and I quickly learned that there are 36 areas/suburbs in and around Auckland listed with average housing values of over $1m, some closer to $2m. And, there are another 13 areas approaching the $1m mark for average price. Sounds like a housing story from Vancouver.

While average cost figures obviously include lower and higher valued houses, it is clear from the Herald piece that people/families with lower incomes could never afford even the least costly of these dwellings. There are government-assisted housing programs in New Zealand (similar to Canada) designed to provide some form of housing support for many of those with the lowest incomes. However, there are many hardworking families with low incomes who need a "hand up" just to obtain a basic, decent house. That of course is where Habitat for Humanity often plays a critical role in providing housing internationally through its Global Village program. Domestic Habitat programs in both New Zealand and Canada work with qualifying families to do the same thing. That's why I'm in NZ - to give a couple of families "a hand up." 

By the late morning of March 7, most of the team had arrived in Auckland and were resting or relaxing at a hotel near the airport. In the mid-afternoon, I made my way to the airport and caught the shuttle to the hotel where I caught up with several people.

A Few Initial Impressions

After only a few days in Auckland, I formed some initial impressions of New Zealand. 

• People are friendly and helpful. 
• There is a lot of natural beauty seemingly everywhere and much of it is easily accessible by foot and water.
• Prominent presence of Maori culture. Maori is one of three official languages with the other two being English and sign language.
• Very good quality and variety of food is widely available.
• Top quality coffee is offered in most cafes.
• There is not a culture of tipping in restaurants, even with large groups such as the Global Village team, because restaurant staff are well paid.
• Excellent selections of red and white wine are produced in NZ, with many varieties not being exported.
• It is expensive to holiday here and likely the same to live here.

Global Village Project

The last member of the team arrived in the early morning on March 8 and by late morning we were met by some folks from Habitat New Zealand (the affiliate in Tauranga - our build location). As the team leader, it is always a relief when all of the team has arrived in the host country! 


After introductions, we loaded our luggage into the van and were off to another hotel to pick up the remaining two people who weren't able to get a room at the hotel where the rest of us stayed. We then settled in for the 2.5 hour journey to Tauranga. Around the mid-point of the trip, we stopped at Karangahake Gorge for a break to stretch our legs and have a light lunch. We crossed a pedestrian-only suspension bridge and then walked on a trail along the Ohinemuri River and through a former rail tunnel before stopping for lunch. It was great to get out of the van to move around and get some fresh air, but the walk through the rail tunnel was especially interesting - long and very dark with the only light source being the opening at either ends of the tunnel. In places, we edged our way along quite slowly.

We arrived in Greerton, a suburb of Tauranga, and checked into our hotel. As people unpacked, a few of us went to a local supermarket to purchase grocery items for breakfast. At the hotel, we had access to meeting room with a full size refrigerator, microwave, dishes and cutlery. This worked well because people could come and have breakfast at their preferred time and not have to deal with the process of ordering and waiting for the food to be served in a restaurant.

After unpacking and grocery shopping, there was time to relax before a having a great welcome dinner with local Habitat staff, board members of the Tauranga affiliate, the two partner families and a few friends of Habitat Tauranga. It was a fun evening and excellent start to our build.

I'd just like to quickly mention that Tauranga/Greerton is located in an area called the Bay of Plenty, which is considered to be an appealing area of the North Island to live. Greerton seems to be mostly a housing suburb with pretty much all that one would need in basic retail stores and services. The local economy in the area is mixed with major industries being shipping, forestry, commercial fishing, tourism and a variety of farming.

The next morning (Monday), we departed at 8:00 am for the build site, only a few minutes drive from the hotel. At the build site, there were more introductions to people with whom we would be working - skilled tradespeople and others. With introductions completed, we had a safety briefing by the construction supervisor and were given tasks so we would work mostly in groups of 2 to 4 people.

We worked on two houses at different stages of development. One was at an advanced stage with tasks such as the installation of siding and ceiling insulation, painting of trim and moldings, filling holes in the siding and painting, etc. The second house was at a very early stage with the foundations posts in place and the foundation floor just being started. The work on this house involved measuring and cutting lumber of different sizes to build and install walls, trusses and other aspects of framing. And, there was a lot of fence to be built - measuring and cutting boards, digging fence post holes, cutting a installing cross timbers, mixing cement and moving it by wheel barrow to the post holes. According to their comfort level, people worked with hand or power tools. Throughout the entire build, I worked on some aspect of fencing. I worked with two local guys and, while the work was hard, it was very satisfying to do all aspects of putting up so much fencing. This involved installing fence around the lots for the two houses and then across the back of the overall development where seven Habitat houses will eventually be built.

Some of the lumber that needed to be cut for fencing

House # 2 with owner

House # 2 after a couple of days

House # 1

House # 1 siding installation

 House # 1 siding installation

Framing construction for house # 2 

 View of house # 2 from field below where other houses will be built

At the end of each day, everyone seemed tired and were pleased with what they had accomplished. Everyone was engaged in conversations with teammates and local people, which created a very positive build site atmosphere. A highlight of the build was the food we had at breaks and lunches. Break time is call "Smoko" - originally a term used in New Zealand and Australia for a short, informal cigarette break during work or military duty. The term has evolved so that it is used to describe a short break for coffee/tea, snack and/or cigarette. In our case, the coffee/tea was accompanied with incredibly tasty snacks made and delivered to the build site by local people. A similar thing occurred for lunches, except there was even more food. Understandably, we looked forward to this every day!!


During the build period, we ate dinner at a few local places and the best dining experiences included two evenings at the home of the local Habitat coordinator (Ann) for our trip and her husband (Jim). They live on rural property in a forested setting about 30-35 minutes away from the hotel. Home cooking and lots of space to enjoy conversations and the beauty of the place. On the first occasion, Jim fired up his outdoor oven and cooked pizzas for us. We put our topping choices on the pizza shell and then Jim took care of the rest, except the eating of course. Very warm and gracious hosts.

And, on another evening, we went directly from the build site to be treated to BBQ'd oysters, sausages and salads along with smoked sea trout appetizer at "Albie's Men's Club." Albie is the construction supervisor for HFH Tauranga. In addition to knowing what to do at the work site, he has a good sense of humour and fun to have around the site. In a warehouse setting, we enjoyed a feast washed down with a couple of local beer selections. The local people working at the build site and a few others added to the festive atmosphere.

Barbecued oysters

On another evening, we were taken out by a local couple to what is considered to be the best fish and chip place in Tauranga. The food was good and we certainly were filled by the time we finished eating, so it was a good idea to go for a walk along the harbour.

After five days of the build were completed, we had an especially memorable evening. We were invited to a local marae (centre or focal point of a Maori community) that is a symbol of Maroi tribal identity and solidarity. Physically, the marae encompasses a few buildings and includes a meeting house, dining hall and cooking area as well as a sacred open space in front of the meeting hall. The meeting building is used for sacred events on behalf of the people and for the important communal rituals. Taking photos inside this building is not permitted.

We were led into the meeting hall and honoured by elders with speeches, songs and different greetings for the men and women on the team. As team leader, I was called upon to offer a greeting in response to the welcome speeches. This was an incredible privilege to be welcomed in this way and something that can happen only under special circumstances. HFH Tauranga and the Maori tribe in this community have a new partnership that will result in houses being built for certain tribal families that meet the Habitat requirements. In being greeted by elders, we shook hands and touched noses twice per tradition. After the ceremony, we were invited into the dining hall where we shared dinner with several local people. A once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Meeting hall at the marae where the welcome ceremony was held

(We took a two-day break for R&R activities midday through the build, which I will describe in a separate section below.)

The last three days of work passed extremely quickly and it hardly seemed possible that our time in Tauranga came to an end after less than two weeks. In the afternoon of our final build day, a dedication ceremony was held on site with the moms from the two partner families being able to participate. As team leader I extended our best wishes and blessings on the two families and others from the team presented them with small gifts on behalf of the team (guest book for their new home and a small Canadian flag to remember the Crazy Canucks). This was an emotionally touching experience and a key highlight of our trip.

House # 2 near the end of our work 

 

 House # 1 near end of our work; most of the siding installed and painted

The last evening in Tauranga was our second occasion at Ann and Jim's home for a farewell dinner. We were joined by people from the local HFH board and other new friends from the build. There was an amazing spread of food provided and prepared by friends and neighbours. It was a fantastic time of fellowship, laughter and story telling. There were many complimentary things said about our team and it was clearly evident the local people enjoyed having us there and felt we had made a great contribution to their work. All of us were presented with a certificate, HFH Tauranga t-shirt and a specially selected piece of dark green jade that had been drilled for a necklace. It is always humbling to experience the generosity of local people on Global Village trips. The folks in New Zealand welcomed us and took care of us in so many ways. 

As we packed and prepared to depart Tauranga the following morning, I was reminded of many things from our time there:

• While we accomplished a great deal in eight build days, the most important thing was connecting with local people (the two partner families, professional tradespeople, HFH Tauranga and others supporting the work of Habitat there.
• We we extremely well cared for by local people at the build site, for transportation and volunteers who brought fantastic food to us every day.
• We were blessed in not having any injuries.
• We had good quality supplies and tools to work with.
• We had a nice variety of work and always had something to do.
• The weather was great most of the time; even though we had to work in damp conditions a couple of times, it didn't really slow us.

The impact of these connections will last a lifetime for many of us. This was my 15th Global Village trip and the New Zealand experience again affirms the importance of "giving people a hand up" to improve their housing situation and make a better life for their family. 

The team (blue t-shirts) and several Kiwi friends

R&R Activities

An important aspect of Global Village trips is having a few days of rest and relaxation or R&R. These activities provide opportunities to experience local culture, explore historic and geographically important sites, shopping and more.


The R&R started on our first full weekend in Tauranga. On Saturday morning, we drove to the city of Rotorua located in the central North Island and an area of both Maori culture and geothermal activity. Our first stop in Rotorua was Te Puia, which is considered as one of New Zealand's best Maori cultural centres and home of the famous Pohutu geyser. Our time there started with a cultural performance that included singing, dancing, demonstration of the Haka and a few other things. Before entering the marae (similar in structure to the one we visited the previous evening) we were given instructions by one of the guides. I was selected to be the chief of all the people who were attending the performance at that time. To greet me, a Maori warrior ran down a long path to confront me by throwing a fern on the ground in front of me as a test of whether or not I would pick it up as a peace offering or challenge the warrior instead. Of course - I picked up the fern!! Then, I led the group of people into the meeting house and was directed to a specific seat where we had a prime location to view the performance. There were a couple of opportunities for audience participation and I was one of four people who were selected to learn how to perform the Haka - a traditional Maori war cry, dance or challenge that signifies unity for the tribe. It was another once-in-a-lifetime experience! The New Zealand rugby team performs a Haka ceremony before its games as a symbol of team unity and intimidation toward the opposing team. 

Ceremonial marae at Te Puia

Some Maori words can be quite long!!

Maori war canoe

At Te Puia, we also had a pre-booked guided tour of the site, including the geyser, hot mud pools and hot springs, Kiwi house, and the carving and weaving centres. We also were shown a very impressive hand carved war boat and some traditional buildings. Our guide Carol was fantastic.

Creations from the wood carving shop at Te Puia

After checking into our hotel. we went to the Agrodome for a highly entertaining show about sheep farming in New Zealand. The MC did a fantastic job of telling us about the history, qualities and benefits of several sheep breeds. The background information was supplemented by having one of each breed on display, starting with the Merino. In addition, there was audience participation in milking a few cows and feeding a few lambs. Two well-trained dogs were another highlight. One neat trick was when one of the dogs ran across the backs of the sheep.

Some of the sheep varieties in NZ

The next morning, we had a leisurely start and returned to the Tauranga area in the late morning. The specific destination was Mount Maunganui and our first stop was at the local farmers' market, where we met the two people who were our guides for the rest of the afternoon. Half the team then decided to walk around the base of the mount while the rest of us walked to the summit. The hike to the top is 232 metres (761 feet) and provides spectacular vistas in all directions. Mount Maunganui sits along the oceans and provides vistas of beautiful sandy beaches. There many surfers in the water, but swimming was restricted to a small area. This was the day prior to an anticipated cyclone so there was plenty of talk about the big storm and lots of surfers were out looking for big waves. While the cyclone struck some areas of NZ, the impact in Tauranga was limited to heavy rain.

Some of the produce offerings at the outdoor market

 These guys were pretty good

After finishing the build in Tauranga, our next stop was Auckland where we were dropped off at a downtown hotel across the street from the harbour. We checked into the hotel and took a bit of personal down time before meeting later in the afternoon to take the foot passenger ferry to Devonport on the north side of the harbour. After spending some time exploring the shops and relaxing, we had dinner at The Esplanade Hotel. Making reservations earlier in the week resulted in us having a room completely to ourselves except for an older couple who were finished soon after we arrived. We enjoyed a fine meal with animated conversation oiled by excellent wine. Our journey to Devonport provided beautiful views of the Auckland harbour and downtown, while the return trip treated us night with views of the downtown skyline and harbour bridge lights. For anyone visiting Auckland, Devonport is strongly recommended for a day or evening trip.

Undecided in Devonport

  

The last R&R activity was a day trip and guided tour of Rangitoto Island, a small volcanic island near Auckland. It is visible from the city with its distinct symmetrical cone that rises to an elevation of 260 metres (850 feet). The island was formed by a series of eruptions between about 550 and 600 years ago. Research indicates, however, that there may have been volcanic activity there on and off for about 1,000 years. Our tour involved being taken around much of the island in a trailer pulled by a tractor with the guide telling us about the island's history and features. While there a few small cabins on Rangitoto, it is not inhabited year round. Mounds of dark lava can be seen throughout the island and looks like piles of topsoil. However, the lava is very hard and has sharp edges that can destroy a pair of hiking boots within a matter of days. There are more than 200 species of trees and flowers on the island, with rainfall being the major source of moisture. Part way through the tour, we walked to the summit of the island on a boardwalk. At the top, we were again provided with great views of the city.

 

Our time together as a team wrapped up with dinner at a restaurant downtown near the harbour and just a short walk from the hotel. While everyone was in a good mood and enjoyed the food and wine, there also was some sense of disappointment that the trip was coming to an end. Many people were heading home the next day and some of us were staying a bit longer to explore other parts of New Zealand.

Personal travel on the North Island
Many months before heading to New Zealand, I knew I wanted to extend my stay to do some exploring. Without an endless supply of money and some time limitations, I didn't know how much of the country I would be able to explore in one or two weeks. From some research, I learned that traveling to the South Island would involve more expense and time. When checking with a couple of friends who had spent time there, I decided to limit the extended time to exploration of the North Island. I also decided to rent a car in order to get around efficiently and flexibly. A good friend from Victoria on the GV team also wanted to tour some of New Zealand, so we decided to collaborate on this.

Being in Auckland at the end of the GV trip provided a perfect place to rent a car and head out. From Auckland downtown, we made our way to the airport and picked up a rental car. One of the first things noticed in the rental car was a sign taped to the dashboard instrumental panel that said "Keep Left." A good reminder in light of many tourists having recently been involved in accidents while driving on the "wrong" side of the road.

Our first day's destination was Coromandel Town on the beautiful Coromandel Peninsula. While the drive from Auckland was not long in distance, it did take a fair amount of time because the highway got increasingly challenging the further the drive - many sharp turns and narrow in places. The driving conditions reminded me of coastal Scotland and Northern Ireland. The recommendations to drive on the Coromandel were spot on as it didn't take long before we started seeing the spectacular scenery. One of the promotional brochures for the Coromandel says "good for your soul." I would agree!

The first stop was in the town of Thames, where we had lunch and walked around a bit after sitting in the car for a couple of hours. On the walk, we came upon what seemed like a small festival celebrating the history of the area. From Thames, it took another 90 minutes or so to reach Coromandel Town. Easily found the hotel, where there was a personal message taped on the office day. Another good example of the service and hospitality in New Zealand. The suite we were in was suitably named as "Unwind." I would describe the town as quaint and it was just a short walk from the hotel into the centre of town. There were a few interesting shops to explore and again all the locals were friendly and welcoming.

Thames

Least friendly sign in Thames

 Thames

Near Coromandel Town

Arrival note at motel in Coromandel Town 

Great idea to educate about water use

Coromandel Town

Near Coromandel Town

Cats seem to be popular on the Coromandel

The next overnight destination was Tairua on the east side of the Coromandel Peninsula. Another beautiful drive along winding roads providing picturesque vistas. The most notable stop was at Hot Water Beach, where there are hot springs under the sandy beaches that can be easily accessed by digging a hole to make a pool to sit or stand in. Many people were doing this - after soaking their feet in the very warm water they would get in the much colder ocean water or vice versa. We finished our stop by having lunch at a cafe overlooking the beach and then it was on to Tairua to check into the motel. After settling in, we drove/walked to the summit of a dormant volcano overlooking the town and surrounding area. Once again, there was widespread evidence of the volcanic history of the North Island.

Hot Water Beach

Hot Water Beach

Looking down on Tairua

Tairua

 

The next morning, we backtracked a bit to Hahei Beach, where we took a boat tour along the coast that included the recommended and incredibly beautiful Cathedral Cove. The boat tour included entering two caves providing a different perspective of the coastal topography. The water was not especially rough, but there was plenty of spray to ensure people stayed awake!

Near Cathedral Cove

Inside of cave near Hahei Beach & Cathedral Cove

Looking up from the cave

Cathedral Cove

The next day's destination was the Sunshine Capital of New Zealand - Whakatane! While it is known for being a popular holiday spot, the stop there was relatively short before heading out for Gisborne via the long route. We explored a bit of the downtown and then found a seafood take-out for another feast of fish and chips. Both times, the fish and chips were good in New Zealand, but I definitely think there are better quality offerings available at home in Victoria and many places on the east coast of Canada.

 Whakatane

From Whakatane, we took the Pacific Coast Highway around the East Cape and finished the day some 350 km away in the the city of Gisborne. This route is one of the least traveled on the North Island and the road is narrow much of the way. There are many places where there are short one-lane only sections and several one-lane bridges with right-of-way signs to safely control traffic. Driving on this highway was more challenging overall than on the Coromandel because of the longer distance and narrower roads. There are a number of towns/villages (Opotiki, Hick's Bay, Te Puka and others), but the population is sparse. It is a scenic drive up and down step hills, along the coast and even through some farms and heavily forested areas. The East Cape is a destination for sea fishing, boating, camping, mountain biking, surfing and many other outdoor pursuits. We made a few stops just to take a break, but most of the day was spent driving. While a tiring day, it was well worth taking the time to see this spectacular natural setting.

With a population of 30,000 and a warm, sunny climate, Gisborne attracts many Kiwi tourists and has a lot to offer in the way of services and things to do. Our hotel was close to the beach and a short walk from the city centre where there are many shops, coffee shops and dining options. There seem to be beaches everywhere, so most hotels would be a short walk to a beach! Due to its close proximity to the International Date Line, Gisborne is considered as the most easterly city in the world and is the first place on the planet where the sun rises each day! I was awake early the next morning to take a photo of the sunrise.

Gisborne

Earliest sunrise on the planet - Gisborne

The next day's drive was much shorter - about half the distance of the previous day - to the city of Napier. While another popular destination with vacationing New Zealanders, it is known as the art deco city. The presence of art deco started during the rebuilding stage following an earthquake in 1931 that almost leveled the city. While I don't have any statistics as supporting evidence, Napier seems to be one of the more affluent places visited thus far with numerous higher-end shops and services. There is easy access to the beach and an array of water sports such as windsurfing, kayaking, parasailing and more. Before getting to New Zealand, I contacted a friend who lives just outside Napier and we were able to arrange an evening together with her husband and three very energetic girls at their home. It was a fun evening to catch up on the past 12-15 years and also meet the rest of Michelle's family.


Before leaving Napier, we stopped downtown to have breakfast at Chantal's Cafe, which is connected to an organic-health food store. It was a very tasty breakfast of free range, organic eggs and toast. While waiting for breakfast, I looked around in the store a bit and was surprised to see Canadian Maple syrup as one of the offerings.

After Napier, the journey headed back to Auckland with a one-night stop in Rotorua, We did a bit of exploring there in an area of the city we did not get to on our R&R days, principally for my friend (Martha) to go to a specific wool shop. She is a knitter and one of her goals was to bring home some knitting wool from New Zealand.
 
The last day and a half of driving was not as interesting as the previous days on the Coromandel and the Pacific Coast Highway, but it was straightforward to get back to the airport and return the rental car. Checked into a hotel near the airport and we had our final dinner in New Zealand before Martha headed home and I traveled to the Gold Coast of Australia the following day.


While I had driven on the opposite side of the road in both Northern Ireland and Scotland, it is not something I do regularly so was just a bit apprehensive about some aspects of driving, principally driving through rotaries and direction finding. This turned out fine and I must say that the Kiwis do a good job with their signage. The rental car experience was very positive - I kept left, only slightly annoyed two other drivers to the point horn blowing, was appreciated by many drivers when pulling over so they could pass (non-angry horn blowing), did not get lost, always found the hotel without needing help with directions, no speeding tickets, navigated scores of traffic rotaries with ease, etc. 

Exploring the North Island was an excellent idea! While we saw quite a bit, there is still a lot of the North Island yet to see, including the city of Wellington. And, as my friend Paul in Nelson on the South Island said "I still have to go to the mainland of New Zealand!" So, it looks like I must return to Aotearoa (New Zealand, land of the long white cloud).