Introduction
The possibility of traveling in Scotland regularly crosses my mind. Even after three visits, there still is much more exploring to do. On my first visit to Scotland, there was much that immediately attracted me and that attraction continues. Family roots on my father's side are in Scotland and for many years I wondered what this intriguing place would be like. Generalizations are tricky when it comes to describing any place, but there are a few things about Scotland that consistently stand out for me:
The 2014 Scottish Referendum on Independence
First things first - a few observations on the referendum. The much talked about Scottish independence vote that occurred two days before I arrived in Scotland, so there was still plenty of political buzz in the media as well as in the public arena. In terms of democratic process and voter engagement, this was a significant event of interest at home and well beyond. The "No" side won decisively by about 10 percentage points 55.3 % vs. 44.7 % voting "Yes." While this was a most interesting outcome, possibly the bigger story was the level of voter turnout. Some 84.6 % of Scots came out to vote, which was the highest level ever recorded for an election or referendum in the UK since the introduction of universal suffrage. One of the other neat features of the referendum was that people 16 years and older were eligible to vote.
I closely followed the referendum campaign in the months and weeks leading up to Sept. 18 and was pleased to be in the country so soon after the vote. Knowing that there was much passion on both sides of the vote, we were careful in asking people about the topic. Without going into a lot of numbers, it is very interesting that the "yes" vote received a larger percentage of the vote in most geographic areas of the country, while the "no" vote percentage was greater in key large urban centres such as Edinburgh and Aberdeen. At some risk of generalization, our conversations with people indicated that youth and young adults were much more inclined to vote "yes" and business folks seemed more inclined to vote "no."
Fascinating stuff and I think there will be another independence vote in the future.
First stop - Falkirk and Area
After meeting my friends P & C in the customs/immigration line at the Edinburgh airport and then getting a rental car, we started our road trip with the first stop being at a hotel in downtown Falkirk. The following morning we got directions to the famous Falkirk Wheel, a well-known engineering feat designed to lift and lower boats on a canal system. The mechanism replaces what would be at least a few locks that are normally used with canals and other waterways. The "wheel" has two large tanks (like very large bathtubs) that fill with water as the boat enters. Once both tanks are filled with water and the boats are in place, the mechanism rotates with one tank being raised and the other being lowered at the same time. In some of the information about the "wheel" it indicated the amount of energy required for one revolution would be equivalent to what would be required to boil three kettles of water. I guess that's likely why it is considered as a significant engineering feat.
One of the other attractions on the same site are small scale Kelpies - mythical shape-shifting creatures that inhabit lochs and pools of water throughout Scotland. Purportedly, they can inhabit any body of water and appear in the shape of a horse able with the ability to adapt to human form.
Our next stop was to take a brief look at a small section of the Antonine Wall, which is a stone and turf fortification built by the Romans around 150 AD spanning 63 km between the Firth of Forth (Edinburgh) and Firth of Clyde (Glasgow). The recently opened John Muir Way long-distance walk follows the Antonine Wall in places. This route is one to consider for a future hike in Scotland. The area we saw was picturesque, but we didn't have much time to explore because we had some driving ahead of us.
Brora
From the Antonine Wall, our drive then took us through the Cairngorm mountains with a short lunch stop in the town of Aviemore, past Inverness and along the east coast to the town of Brora where we stayed in a very comfortable B&B a few km from the centre of town. The owners gave us a warm welcome and we had a pretty good dinner in the village. After dinner, we enjoyed the warm of a fire in the sitting room of our B&B as we sipped a dram of Talisker. In addition to the B&B, the owners operate a farm with a beef cattle herd and large flock of sheep. A pastoral setting that some would even describe as bucolic.
Helmsdale
After leaving Brora, it was a short drive to the town of Helmsdale where we had a planned stop as this is where some of C's ancestors embarked on their long journey that eventually had them settling in Manitoba. The modern village was planned about 200 years ago to resettle people from nearby communities that had been moved of their plots of land a part of the Highland Clearances. For a small town, it has an impressive museum and archive that documents the history of the area and people forced off their farm plots with many eventually moving to other parts of the world including Canada.We spent a bit of time walking around the village, checked a few shops (there weren't many) and had lunch at Thyme and Plaice coffee house and restaurant.
Thurso
The town of Thurso is located on the northeast coast of Scotland and is the jumping off point for ferries sailing to the Orkney Islands. We stopped there on our way to Orkney and on the return trip, staying in a comfortable B&B - quiet and central. From what I could determine, there's not a lot about Thurso that would attract tourists other than its location for access to the Orkneys. We found good restaurants on both nights there and even got to walk around a bit.
Orkney
The Orkney Islands is an archipelago of 70 islands of which 20 are inhabited. The largest island is called Mainland and it is the home of Kirkwall - the largest town with a population of about 9,000. All the islands combined have an estimated population of 21-22,000. A few of the islands are connected by constructed causeways. We stayed in Kirkwall and explored Mainland and two other islands. The name Orkney dates back to the first century BC or possibly earlier and the islands have been inhabited for at least 8,500 years. Early inhabitants were from different Mesolithic and neolithic tribes, and then the Picts. Orkney was invaded and settled by the Norse around 875 and the strong Viking influence is evident throughout Mainland. By the late 1400s, the Orkneys came under Scottish rule.
The most common way to access Orkney is by ferry from Thurso to Stromness. The crossing goes through an area where part of the sailing does not benefit from the protection of islands, so it can be rough. The sailing to Orkney was uneventful, but on the return trip it was very windy, which meant that all passengers were required to stay seated and all services were suspended....stuff was flying off the shelves in the gift shop and the chairs in the dining area slid around to the end of their cable tether. The waves likely reach as high as 9 metres (30 feet). However, the ferry is a worthy vessel designed for conditions such as these. One of the interesting things about the rough sailing was that most of the announcements over the PA system were the captain and it was really difficult to understand his heavy Scottish accent.
In additional to the Viking influence on Orkney, other things that stood out were the extensive farming and widespread use of windmills for power generation. We later learned that Mainland could essentially be self-sufficient in terms of most food requirements, electricity and, of course whisky and beer. It has its own dairy, beef and dairy cattle, sheep, two single malt distilleries and a couple of craft breweries. There is a substantial fish and shellfish industry for local use as well as shipping to other parts of the country. There is an active community of artists, musicians, choirs and other performers, so the entertainment side is well covered.
While the climate is considered as "cool temperate," it is surprisingly mild due to the influence of the Gulf Stream considering its northern latitude - about 59 degrees N. The climate, of course, contributes to the good growing conditions. While it is located at about the same latitude as the border of the Yukon and NWT with the Canada provinces to the south, Orkney is similar only with its long daylight in the summer and limited daylight in winter.
Kirkwall
We stayed in Kirkwall at a comfortable B&B located away from the centre of town, but still within walking distance of a number of things including downtown. We had three very good dinner meals there and generally found it an appealing place. Here are a few random photos from around Kirkwall.
Neolithic Sites
Among the attractions of Orkney are Neolithic sites with the standing stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar respectively dating back to 3,300 BC and between 2,500 and 2,000 BC. In addition, Mainland has Northern Europe's best-preserved Neolithic village - Skara Brae - which provides a glimpse into life in this area during the Stone Age.
For centuries, Skara Brae was hidden under coastal sand dunes until 1850 when a massive storm eroded the sand and grass area above the beach revealing many stone huts beneath. The houses are in incredibly good condition with the stone furniture (beds, boxes, etc.) having survived 5,000 years.
The four standing stones at Stenness are imposing with the tallest being 5.7 metres in height. Archaeological evidence indicates there was likely a circle of 12 standing stones at this site originally. Just a short walk away are the excavated remains of what would have been a small Neolithic village. There are other large stones at Stenness that have fallen over at some point. The Ring of Brodgar is about 1.5 km from the Stenness site and has a large circle of 21 standing stones from what originally were 60 stones with some as high as 15 metres. There also are at least 13 prehistoric burial mounds.
Ring of Brodgar
Ring of Brodgar
Ring of Brodgar
The second largest town on Orkney hosts the main ferry terminal and is the major seaport on Orkney, so on departure day we drove there to spend a bit of time exploring. As with Kirkwall, it is the home of a notable fishery. At one time in its history, it was the last port of call for many transtantic voyages, including Hudson's Bay Company vessels going to Northern Canada. Many passengers on these sailing included people
who had suffered from the Highland Clearances having lost their land to the wealthy and powerful lairds and suffered severe economic
conditions. One of the high profile characters
of Stromness was John Rae - a famous explorer of Canada's Arctic.
Not the greatest photo (shot through glass), but ya gotta love the notice!
Explorer John Rae
Thurso and Oban
After the rocky ferry crossing, it took just a few minutes to arrive at our lodging for the night; the same B&B on the journey to Orkney. The following morning, we departed for Oban, a town of about 9-10,000 located on the west coast of the Highlands. It is a popular tourist destination in the summer when the number of people in town almost triples. It also is an important departure point for ferry travel to the Inner and Outer Hebrides islands. Its vibrant tourism sector is complemented by an active fishing industry. It has a beautiful horseshoe shaped harbour and houses located in a hill overlooking the harbour and downtown have fantastic vistas.
We stayed there for two nights at a B&B guest house located on the hill overlooking the the harbour. We got to spend some time exploring town at a leisurely pace and visited a couple of attractions not far away. One of our stops was at a whisky shop where we were offered samples of a few good selections. Most of their offerings were not from the big name distilleries, but selections from a bottler of limited batches of single malt often from small volume distilleries. It was a quiet morning, so we quickly engaged in conversation with the clerk, which seemed to contribute to his generosity. It was a fun encounter.
For another walk, we went up hill from our lodging to see McCaig's Tower. It is described as an unfinished "colosseum" overlooking initiated by a local business tycoon as a project to employ workers in 1900. The site itself is nothing spectacular, but its location offers good views and the walk up there was pleasant. We also drove out of town a short distance to Dunollie Castle, one of the castles of Clan MacDougall. It was near closing time when we arrived there, so were only able to have a few minutes to walk around before the gate was locked. There was many similar places throughout Scotland, so it was not like we had missed out on something unusual.
When hiking the West Highland Way seven years ago, my two friends and I stayed near the Drovers' Inn one night and went there for dinner. Entering the front door is a once-in-a-lifetime experience as guests are met by a large stuffed bear. The rest of the decor is equally fascinating with stuffed birds and deer heads throughout the place. The local taxidermist must have been busy. The inn is a landmark when traveling in this part of the country.
After lunch, it was on to Glasgow for a one-night stay. The time in Glasgow was short with the highlight being a very fine dinner at The Two Fat Ladies restaurant at their west end location. No connection with the TV program of the same name. This is the third time P & I have had dinner there - once for each trip to Scotland. Considered as one the city's premier seafood restaurants, there also are turf dishes with cooking influences from France, Italy and the Middle East. Each time there, we have had the same server who has a wonderful sense of humour and carries out her craft professionally.
Kintyre Way
With a good sleep and breakfast, the next step was a taxi to the bus station for the journey to Tarbert on the north end of the Kintyre Peninsula. I left in the mid-morning, but P was delayed until the next day. Arriving in the mid-afternoon I found a coffee shop for a late lunch while waiting for the host of the guest house to fetch me. It was a quiet evening with a walk into the village for a good dinner of scallops and a local ale. The rest of the evening was spent organizing what I would need for the next day's hiking. Breakfast the following morning was excellent and made for a good start to the day.
The Kintyre Way located on the west coast of Scotland's is one of the country's great long distance walks (140 km) from the village of Tarbert in the north to a settlement on the south end of the peninsula called Southend (creative naming). The route criss-crosses the peninsula, often going through quite remote areas and only a few villages, usually at the end of each day. None of the terrain is especially demanding in terms of elevation and it was only on the last day that we experienced notable elevation gain and, of course, it was the day with longest hiking distance. We chose to take seven days for hiking, which meant we averaged 20 km per day. The walking conditions varied from a substantial amount of forestry roads to trails through farms and even some coastal walking.
I won't go through all the details of the walk and will let photos tell the story, except for a couple of things. We stayed two nights in the largest town of the Kintyre called Campbeltown, where our lodging was in a large house overlooking the harbour about a 10 minute walk from the town centre. Just a few minutes away in the opposite direction, we had dinner both evenings at a fine establishment. For me the last day was the best day in a few respects. The walking was in a remote area and much of it was in areas that provided great views of the rolling hills and coast overlooking the Mull of Kintyre (made famous in a Paul McCartney song). The highlight was well into the day when you could look across the water to Northern Ireland and the area where I had spent three months at the beginning of 2011 and 2013. While it was not a completely clear day, I was able to easily identify two formations - Fairhead and Rathlin Island. Now for some photos.
Church and distillery are adjacent to each other - what's the message?
Sunset over Campeltown
Welcoming party
With a night's rest at our modest lodging in Southend, we had an early morning start when a taxi transported us to a bus stop in Campbeltown for the next leg of our journey to the ferry terminal at Kennacraig and then on to Islay. The taxi had been booked the evening before and we left the small hotel via the back stairs because no staff were on site and the rest of the place was locked. We arrived at the terminal just on time to purchase tickets and walk on to the ferry. Lots of logistics and it all worked well. It was a beautiful morning as the early morning fog hung over the coast and then the sun came out as we headed across the water. One thing to keep in mind about these coastal climates is that sun and clear sky can be very quickly replaced with rain or maybe a combination of sun and rain at the same time.
After arriving on Islay, we had to wait for a few minutes for the car rental owner to show up with our vehicle - things are pretty relaxed there with a minimal amount of paperwork!!
We had been on Islay a few years earlier and very much enjoyed our time there. We visited a few new places, but the two days there was mostly revisiting familiar places and attractions. The first stop was Finlaggan, the ancient seat of the Lords of the Isles and Clan Donald, and where they would meet in secret to avoid the English during the 13th to 15th centuries. While there is a visitor centre operated by the Finlaggan Trust, the original structures are now in ruins and the subject of archaeological research. When on the site, there is a sense of the secret meeting of centuries earlier - difficult to describe, but real.
A small number of the casks in storage at Bruichladdich
The possibility of traveling in Scotland regularly crosses my mind. Even after three visits, there still is much more exploring to do. On my first visit to Scotland, there was much that immediately attracted me and that attraction continues. Family roots on my father's side are in Scotland and for many years I wondered what this intriguing place would be like. Generalizations are tricky when it comes to describing any place, but there are a few things about Scotland that consistently stand out for me:
- the people with their sense of welcome and dry wit
- the ruggedness and beauty of the landscape
- weather - often includes rain, strong winds and ever shifting clouds with bursts of sun seemingly breaking through almost any time
- the small towns and villages
- many fine single malts
The 2014 Scottish Referendum on Independence
First things first - a few observations on the referendum. The much talked about Scottish independence vote that occurred two days before I arrived in Scotland, so there was still plenty of political buzz in the media as well as in the public arena. In terms of democratic process and voter engagement, this was a significant event of interest at home and well beyond. The "No" side won decisively by about 10 percentage points 55.3 % vs. 44.7 % voting "Yes." While this was a most interesting outcome, possibly the bigger story was the level of voter turnout. Some 84.6 % of Scots came out to vote, which was the highest level ever recorded for an election or referendum in the UK since the introduction of universal suffrage. One of the other neat features of the referendum was that people 16 years and older were eligible to vote.
I closely followed the referendum campaign in the months and weeks leading up to Sept. 18 and was pleased to be in the country so soon after the vote. Knowing that there was much passion on both sides of the vote, we were careful in asking people about the topic. Without going into a lot of numbers, it is very interesting that the "yes" vote received a larger percentage of the vote in most geographic areas of the country, while the "no" vote percentage was greater in key large urban centres such as Edinburgh and Aberdeen. At some risk of generalization, our conversations with people indicated that youth and young adults were much more inclined to vote "yes" and business folks seemed more inclined to vote "no."
Fascinating stuff and I think there will be another independence vote in the future.
After meeting my friends P & C in the customs/immigration line at the Edinburgh airport and then getting a rental car, we started our road trip with the first stop being at a hotel in downtown Falkirk. The following morning we got directions to the famous Falkirk Wheel, a well-known engineering feat designed to lift and lower boats on a canal system. The mechanism replaces what would be at least a few locks that are normally used with canals and other waterways. The "wheel" has two large tanks (like very large bathtubs) that fill with water as the boat enters. Once both tanks are filled with water and the boats are in place, the mechanism rotates with one tank being raised and the other being lowered at the same time. In some of the information about the "wheel" it indicated the amount of energy required for one revolution would be equivalent to what would be required to boil three kettles of water. I guess that's likely why it is considered as a significant engineering feat.
One of the other attractions on the same site are small scale Kelpies - mythical shape-shifting creatures that inhabit lochs and pools of water throughout Scotland. Purportedly, they can inhabit any body of water and appear in the shape of a horse able with the ability to adapt to human form.
From the Antonine Wall, our drive then took us through the Cairngorm mountains with a short lunch stop in the town of Aviemore, past Inverness and along the east coast to the town of Brora where we stayed in a very comfortable B&B a few km from the centre of town. The owners gave us a warm welcome and we had a pretty good dinner in the village. After dinner, we enjoyed the warm of a fire in the sitting room of our B&B as we sipped a dram of Talisker. In addition to the B&B, the owners operate a farm with a beef cattle herd and large flock of sheep. A pastoral setting that some would even describe as bucolic.
After leaving Brora, it was a short drive to the town of Helmsdale where we had a planned stop as this is where some of C's ancestors embarked on their long journey that eventually had them settling in Manitoba. The modern village was planned about 200 years ago to resettle people from nearby communities that had been moved of their plots of land a part of the Highland Clearances. For a small town, it has an impressive museum and archive that documents the history of the area and people forced off their farm plots with many eventually moving to other parts of the world including Canada.We spent a bit of time walking around the village, checked a few shops (there weren't many) and had lunch at Thyme and Plaice coffee house and restaurant.
Lunch spot in Helmsdale
Thurso
The town of Thurso is located on the northeast coast of Scotland and is the jumping off point for ferries sailing to the Orkney Islands. We stopped there on our way to Orkney and on the return trip, staying in a comfortable B&B - quiet and central. From what I could determine, there's not a lot about Thurso that would attract tourists other than its location for access to the Orkneys. We found good restaurants on both nights there and even got to walk around a bit.
Orkney
The Orkney Islands is an archipelago of 70 islands of which 20 are inhabited. The largest island is called Mainland and it is the home of Kirkwall - the largest town with a population of about 9,000. All the islands combined have an estimated population of 21-22,000. A few of the islands are connected by constructed causeways. We stayed in Kirkwall and explored Mainland and two other islands. The name Orkney dates back to the first century BC or possibly earlier and the islands have been inhabited for at least 8,500 years. Early inhabitants were from different Mesolithic and neolithic tribes, and then the Picts. Orkney was invaded and settled by the Norse around 875 and the strong Viking influence is evident throughout Mainland. By the late 1400s, the Orkneys came under Scottish rule.
The most common way to access Orkney is by ferry from Thurso to Stromness. The crossing goes through an area where part of the sailing does not benefit from the protection of islands, so it can be rough. The sailing to Orkney was uneventful, but on the return trip it was very windy, which meant that all passengers were required to stay seated and all services were suspended....stuff was flying off the shelves in the gift shop and the chairs in the dining area slid around to the end of their cable tether. The waves likely reach as high as 9 metres (30 feet). However, the ferry is a worthy vessel designed for conditions such as these. One of the interesting things about the rough sailing was that most of the announcements over the PA system were the captain and it was really difficult to understand his heavy Scottish accent.
One thing I wanted to see on the sailing to Orkney was The Old Man of Hoy, a 137 metre (450 feet) high rock pillar called a sea stack. It is one of the highest in the UK and consequently is popular with climbers. While we were able to see it, I wasn't able to get what I would consider a good quality photo - one of those times when a SLR camera with the proper filter would have made a big difference. Nevertheless, I am pleased it wasn't totally shrouded in fog because we did not pass it on the return trip.
While the climate is considered as "cool temperate," it is surprisingly mild due to the influence of the Gulf Stream considering its northern latitude - about 59 degrees N. The climate, of course, contributes to the good growing conditions. While it is located at about the same latitude as the border of the Yukon and NWT with the Canada provinces to the south, Orkney is similar only with its long daylight in the summer and limited daylight in winter.
Kirkwall
We stayed in Kirkwall at a comfortable B&B located away from the centre of town, but still within walking distance of a number of things including downtown. We had three very good dinner meals there and generally found it an appealing place. Here are a few random photos from around Kirkwall.
Street name, not related to St. Olaf s diet
Highland Park distillery
Neolithic Sites
Among the attractions of Orkney are Neolithic sites with the standing stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar respectively dating back to 3,300 BC and between 2,500 and 2,000 BC. In addition, Mainland has Northern Europe's best-preserved Neolithic village - Skara Brae - which provides a glimpse into life in this area during the Stone Age.
For centuries, Skara Brae was hidden under coastal sand dunes until 1850 when a massive storm eroded the sand and grass area above the beach revealing many stone huts beneath. The houses are in incredibly good condition with the stone furniture (beds, boxes, etc.) having survived 5,000 years.
The four standing stones at Stenness are imposing with the tallest being 5.7 metres in height. Archaeological evidence indicates there was likely a circle of 12 standing stones at this site originally. Just a short walk away are the excavated remains of what would have been a small Neolithic village. There are other large stones at Stenness that have fallen over at some point. The Ring of Brodgar is about 1.5 km from the Stenness site and has a large circle of 21 standing stones from what originally were 60 stones with some as high as 15 metres. There also are at least 13 prehistoric burial mounds.
Stenness
Stenness
Stenness
Skara Brae
Skara Brae
Skara Brae
Italian Chapel
One of the interesting sites on Orkney is a beautiful Roman Catholic chapel constructed during the 2nd World War by Italian POWs. After a German submarine had slipped undetected into Scapa Flow, the Brits took steps to prevent this from occurring again. POWs being held in other parts of the country were moved to the area to construct a more substantial defense that took the form of causeways, which also serve as a link to some of the southern islands. After Italy had capitulated to the Allies in 1943, the POWs were given more freedom and requested a proper place to worship. Despite restrictions on time and materials, the prisoners constructed an amazing structure including the way in which it was decorated. The structure is combined of two military huts joined together. The interior of the chapel was lined and painted to depict a brick wall, carved stone and vaulted ceilings. There are Frescoes of angelic figures, stained glass and an altarpiece depicting the Madonna and Child. All the materials were scavenged from wherever possible - wood from a wrecked ship, tin cans and a lot more. Very impressive!
Stromness
The town has many narrow, winding streets and alleyways
that climb steeply in places as they extend from the harbour front to the hill above town.
There are quaint shops, places to eat and a small museum that does a good job of documenting the history of the area.
Thurso and Oban
After the rocky ferry crossing, it took just a few minutes to arrive at our lodging for the night; the same B&B on the journey to Orkney. The following morning, we departed for Oban, a town of about 9-10,000 located on the west coast of the Highlands. It is a popular tourist destination in the summer when the number of people in town almost triples. It also is an important departure point for ferry travel to the Inner and Outer Hebrides islands. Its vibrant tourism sector is complemented by an active fishing industry. It has a beautiful horseshoe shaped harbour and houses located in a hill overlooking the harbour and downtown have fantastic vistas.
We stayed there for two nights at a B&B guest house located on the hill overlooking the the harbour. We got to spend some time exploring town at a leisurely pace and visited a couple of attractions not far away. One of our stops was at a whisky shop where we were offered samples of a few good selections. Most of their offerings were not from the big name distilleries, but selections from a bottler of limited batches of single malt often from small volume distilleries. It was a quiet morning, so we quickly engaged in conversation with the clerk, which seemed to contribute to his generosity. It was a fun encounter.
For another walk, we went up hill from our lodging to see McCaig's Tower. It is described as an unfinished "colosseum" overlooking initiated by a local business tycoon as a project to employ workers in 1900. The site itself is nothing spectacular, but its location offers good views and the walk up there was pleasant. We also drove out of town a short distance to Dunollie Castle, one of the castles of Clan MacDougall. It was near closing time when we arrived there, so were only able to have a few minutes to walk around before the gate was locked. There was many similar places throughout Scotland, so it was not like we had missed out on something unusual.
We had two fine dinners in Oban with several fish and seafood options being available. It definitely is a place I'd return to if there was an opportunity....maybe use it as the jumping off point for some adventures in the Hebrides.
Name of our guest house in Gaelic
McCaig's Tower
Off to Glasgow
Our next destination was Glasgow with one stop along the way - the historic Drovers' Inn. Built more than 300 years ago, the inn has provided food and lodging for travelers of all kinds. In the 1700s, cattle were an important part of the Scottish economy including the annual export of 30,000 or more head of cattle. Many cattle had to be herded from the Highlands to the Lowlands where annual markets were held. Those responsible for herding the cattle were called drovers, which was a highly valued skill in the Highlands. Skilled drovers would ensure cattle were moved to market at an appropriate pace so as to not be late for the market or to move them too fast so they would lose weight and receive a poor price. The Drovers' Inn was one of the places they would stop.When hiking the West Highland Way seven years ago, my two friends and I stayed near the Drovers' Inn one night and went there for dinner. Entering the front door is a once-in-a-lifetime experience as guests are met by a large stuffed bear. The rest of the decor is equally fascinating with stuffed birds and deer heads throughout the place. The local taxidermist must have been busy. The inn is a landmark when traveling in this part of the country.
Kintyre Way
With a good sleep and breakfast, the next step was a taxi to the bus station for the journey to Tarbert on the north end of the Kintyre Peninsula. I left in the mid-morning, but P was delayed until the next day. Arriving in the mid-afternoon I found a coffee shop for a late lunch while waiting for the host of the guest house to fetch me. It was a quiet evening with a walk into the village for a good dinner of scallops and a local ale. The rest of the evening was spent organizing what I would need for the next day's hiking. Breakfast the following morning was excellent and made for a good start to the day.
The Kintyre Way located on the west coast of Scotland's is one of the country's great long distance walks (140 km) from the village of Tarbert in the north to a settlement on the south end of the peninsula called Southend (creative naming). The route criss-crosses the peninsula, often going through quite remote areas and only a few villages, usually at the end of each day. None of the terrain is especially demanding in terms of elevation and it was only on the last day that we experienced notable elevation gain and, of course, it was the day with longest hiking distance. We chose to take seven days for hiking, which meant we averaged 20 km per day. The walking conditions varied from a substantial amount of forestry roads to trails through farms and even some coastal walking.
I won't go through all the details of the walk and will let photos tell the story, except for a couple of things. We stayed two nights in the largest town of the Kintyre called Campbeltown, where our lodging was in a large house overlooking the harbour about a 10 minute walk from the town centre. Just a few minutes away in the opposite direction, we had dinner both evenings at a fine establishment. For me the last day was the best day in a few respects. The walking was in a remote area and much of it was in areas that provided great views of the rolling hills and coast overlooking the Mull of Kintyre (made famous in a Paul McCartney song). The highlight was well into the day when you could look across the water to Northern Ireland and the area where I had spent three months at the beginning of 2011 and 2013. While it was not a completely clear day, I was able to easily identify two formations - Fairhead and Rathlin Island. Now for some photos.
Picturesque Tarbert harbour
Tarbert Castle
Highly visible Kintyre Way marker posts seen through the hike
Reminder of the yellow arrows ever present on the Camino de Santiago
A Short Trip to Islay
After arriving on Islay, we had to wait for a few minutes for the car rental owner to show up with our vehicle - things are pretty relaxed there with a minimal amount of paperwork!!
We had been on Islay a few years earlier and very much enjoyed our time there. We visited a few new places, but the two days there was mostly revisiting familiar places and attractions. The first stop was Finlaggan, the ancient seat of the Lords of the Isles and Clan Donald, and where they would meet in secret to avoid the English during the 13th to 15th centuries. While there is a visitor centre operated by the Finlaggan Trust, the original structures are now in ruins and the subject of archaeological research. When on the site, there is a sense of the secret meeting of centuries earlier - difficult to describe, but real.
View from ferry before departure to Islay
Finlaggan
Finlaggan
Finlaggan
Important part of Bruichladdich
Lock to the spirit sample safe!
We visited the Bruichladdich twice - one time for a tour and the other time for P to inspect a cask partially owned by a client. Both visits were fun, especially the latter. They were generous in the samples provided, but I can say that (because I was driving) I abstained except for a couple of sips. We also stopped at the visitor centres at Bowmore, Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Caol Ila and Laphroaig, with the best stop being at Laphroaig where we collected our rent - 50 ml bottle - for the square foot of turf that both of us own in the distillery's peat bog.
We stayed at a great B&B (The Trout Fly) in the town of Port Ellen - comfortable beds, fantastic hot breakfast and great hosts. We had the opportunity to meet a lovely couple from Germany, who were staying at the same place. One evening, they joined us for dinner along with two young women who work for Cirque du Soleil. Another example of the interesting people one meets when traveling.
The two days on Islay were followed by a ferry ride back to Kennacraig, overnight stay and fantastic dinner in the town of Tarbert, bus ride to Glasgow airport and another overnight stay before heading home! As I look back on this trip combined with the Habitat for Humanity trip to Hungary, there certainly was a lot packed into the six weeks.
Already thinking about where I'd like to go on my next visit to Scotland.
