Random Stuff
Here's a little story that seems to symbolize some of the characters you encounter in Northern Ireland. As you know from previous blogs, my favourite place to walk near Corrymeela is along Ballycastle Beach. On Sunday afternoon (Feb. 13) I walked into town and noted that the waves breaking on the beach seemed to be a bit larger than normal and also that there were many fishermen had set up their fishing rods on the beach. Seeing fishermen on the beach is a common sight, but there were many more this time. Several of them even had small tarps to sit under (sort of like a tent fly) and seemed to be there for a bit of a stay. I was intrigued to know what they were they were trying to catch, so asked one of them. With a bit of a smile, his response was pretty cryptic - "anything." This is the type of answer one comes to expect here, but with a couple more questions I learned they were fishing for sea bass, which is a tasty fish.
About 10 days ago I was walking along the beach and must admit I was surprised to see three surfers. While some areas of the Antrim Coast in Northern Ireland are known for attracting surfers, I just didn't expect it. It made me think of a friend from Tofino, BC.
Since arriving here more than five weeks ago, the amount of daylight hours has increased by about 2 hours and 15 minutes. I especially like this in the late afternoons when there is an opportunity to be outside. On the sunny days, spring definitely is in the air.
Hospitality
One thing that continues to impress me and warm my heart is the hospitality of the people here!!! It seems that every few days, some form of hospitality is shown that is totally unexpected and is given with sincerity and warmth. It is easy to see why people are drawn to this place after even a short time here. On my first night in Belfast, I joined a few friends and their friends for a small potluck dinner. The evening`s hospitality was further extended when the hosts (who I met that evening) warmly welcomed me to stay with them over night.
Day One: City Centre & Golden Mile
As with so much of my experience since arriving in Northern Ireland on Jan. 8, I didn't know what to expect before visiting Belfast last week. I did know about a good local cafe-coffee shop (Common Grounds) and a couple of bookstores as well as stuff I had read in the Lonely Planet guide.
Common Grounds is an interesting place - not for profit, uses Fair Trade coffee and has excellent food. Along with a couple of stops at a Starbucks, I had the best coffee since leaving home.
Belfast has many attractions and I got to sample a few of these along with a couple of Corrymeela related meetings. Compared to many new cities I have visited, I found it quite easy to get my orientation in the city centre and the Queen's University-Botanic Gardens areas. I like the compactness of the city as I was able to easily walk every place I wanted to see on this trip.
On the first morning, the initial stop was at the Belfast Welcome Centre located near the imposing landmark of City Hall. Equipped with a city map and information, I set out to familiarize myself with the downtown. Having been strongly encouraged to tour city hall, I stopped to check it out. However, the timing didn't make it possible to complete a tour then and also make a luncheon appointment. So, I set out for Common Grounds near Queen's U by walking what is called the Golden Mile (actually it is about 1.5 km) along Great Victoria Street, through Shaftesbury Square and Botanic Avenue. I stayed in this area for the next two nights, so the walk helped with orientation. There are dozens of restaurants, bars and an eclectic mix of shops and stores on the Golden Mile. It was a very enjoyable walk in great weather.
Two of the historic sites near the start of the walk on the Golden Mile are the Grand Opera House and the Crown Bar, with the latter displaying Victorian decor at it most flamboyant. Across the street is the famous or infamous Europa Hotel, which has hosted US presidents, prime ministers and other celebrities. US President Bill Clinton stayed at the Europa on his visits to Belfast in 1995 and 1998. The hotel has been described as the "World's Most Bombed Hotel" as it was the target for several bombs during the worst of the conflicts in Northern Ireland. The Europa was also a favourite hotel for foreign media and one rumour is that the bombing were brought to this area of Belfast to make it easier for reporters. (I have no idea how much truth there is to this, but it does make for interesting speculation.) Also in this area is the main bus centre and a key train station. Further along the Golden Mile on the Botanic Avenue portion is a small bookstore called No Alibis, which was recommended by a few people. While it didn`t have a large selection of books, I like bookstores and spent a fair amount of time there. It does have a good selection of mystery novels.
The day started with a walk through part of the Queen's University campus, with its red brick and sand stone buildings, followed by a relaxing stroll through the Botanic Gardens and about 90 minutes exploring the Ulster Museum (no admission charge). It is an impressive facility with many display areas. I focused on the section devoted to Irish history from the prehistoric period through "The Troubles." (See below for a brief explanation.) I then finished my stroll through the campus before heading back toward the city centre. I always enjoy walking around university campuses with all the energy of youth combined with what I find to be a relaxing environment. I must admit, however, that many students may not quite agreement it always being a relaxing place.
I then headed to city hall for a guided tour and must say that it was really worth while, including the fact that there is no admission charge. Its doors opened in 1906, which the brochure describes as a time of ``unprecedented prosperity and industrial might in the city.`` The building style is classic Renaissance with white stone and when entering through the main door at the front, one cannot help but be impressed with the 53 metre high dome, the entrance hall and the grand staircase with landings that use four types of marble. There are many windows of stained glass, murals and classic light fixtures. The guided tour included the Council Chamber, with the opportunity to sit in the Lord Mayor`s chair, the reception and banquet halls, and the Great Hall. Check it out www.belfastcity.gov.uk.
Belfast Murals
Other than spending time with some friends, the main attraction for my first visit to Belfast was to see the murals. I understand that Belfast has a tradition of political murals that goes back about a century and this tradition really came alive during the late 1970s as ``The Troubles`` continued. Murals have been used (still are in some areas) to identify sectarian territory as well as acknowledge historical events and actions by terrorists and others. In Belfast, there are many republican or nationalist murals related to events such as the hunger strike at Maze Prison and other that extend wider political issues, some well beyond Northern Ireland. The republican murals tend to be artist and rich in symbolism.
Loyalist murals are numerous in Belfast and tend to be more militaristic in tone. The battle cry of `No Surrender` is common in loyalist murals in Belfast and other places in Northern Ireland such as Derry. The colours of red, white and blue are common on loyalist murals as well as images of paramilitary activities and King Billy on a prancing white horse.
Late in the afternoon of my second day in Belfast, I was met by two friends and we did a walking tour in the Falls Road (Catholic) and Skankill Road (Protestant) areas of the city. Due to unforeseen circumstances, it was getting to be late afternoon before our walk started and then we encountered heavy rain that unfortunately cut short our walking tour.
While there is debate about the Belfast murals being a reminder of a violent past that many want to leave behind, many others feel they are an important part of the history of Northern Ireland. Regardless of what a person thinks about the social, sectarian and political issues, I think the murals are a striking part of the Belfast visual landscape. If at all possible, I want to return to Belfast to see some of the same murals again as well as others in different parts of the city.
My trip to Belfast was topped off by have dinner and totally great evening with three friends I have known for some time (one of whom first told me about Corrymeela) and a new friend. We shared an excellent time of home cooking, conversation and a few cold beverages.
Day Three: Chill and Travel Back to Corrymeela
On my last day in Belfast, I relaxed in the morning and then slowly walked to the bus station for an early afternoon journey back to Ballycastle. While sitting in the bus-train station, I unexpectedly saw one of the Corrymeela long-term volunteers. We had a short chat as we were headed in different directions. The trip back to Ballycastle was interesting simply because it was the first time I had seen most of the area we traveled through during daylight hours. Back in BC, I was treated to another enjoyable walk along the beach!!
The Troubles
Before and since arriving in Northern Ireland, I have heard the term "The Troubles" used in many conversations. It may be helpful to provide a definition, but I must emphasize that this will be a very basic or simple definition for a complex topic. In brief, "The Troubles" refer to a period of social, political and sectarian (often intertwined) conflict in Northern Ireland that geographically extended at times to the Republic of Ireland, England and even further afield. The period for these conflicts is generally considered to be from the late 1960s through the "Good Friday Agreement" signed in 1998, but some consider the time frame to be slightly different. Even today, violence or threats of violence occur from time to time. The principal issues relate to the constitutional status of Northern Ireland and the relationships between the unionist (mostly Protestant) and nationalist (mostly Catholic) groups and communities in Northern Ireland.
This post is much longer than anticipated, but I hope you enjoy it.
Here's a little story that seems to symbolize some of the characters you encounter in Northern Ireland. As you know from previous blogs, my favourite place to walk near Corrymeela is along Ballycastle Beach. On Sunday afternoon (Feb. 13) I walked into town and noted that the waves breaking on the beach seemed to be a bit larger than normal and also that there were many fishermen had set up their fishing rods on the beach. Seeing fishermen on the beach is a common sight, but there were many more this time. Several of them even had small tarps to sit under (sort of like a tent fly) and seemed to be there for a bit of a stay. I was intrigued to know what they were they were trying to catch, so asked one of them. With a bit of a smile, his response was pretty cryptic - "anything." This is the type of answer one comes to expect here, but with a couple more questions I learned they were fishing for sea bass, which is a tasty fish.
About 10 days ago I was walking along the beach and must admit I was surprised to see three surfers. While some areas of the Antrim Coast in Northern Ireland are known for attracting surfers, I just didn't expect it. It made me think of a friend from Tofino, BC.
Since arriving here more than five weeks ago, the amount of daylight hours has increased by about 2 hours and 15 minutes. I especially like this in the late afternoons when there is an opportunity to be outside. On the sunny days, spring definitely is in the air.
Hospitality
One thing that continues to impress me and warm my heart is the hospitality of the people here!!! It seems that every few days, some form of hospitality is shown that is totally unexpected and is given with sincerity and warmth. It is easy to see why people are drawn to this place after even a short time here. On my first night in Belfast, I joined a few friends and their friends for a small potluck dinner. The evening`s hospitality was further extended when the hosts (who I met that evening) warmly welcomed me to stay with them over night.
Day One: City Centre & Golden Mile
As with so much of my experience since arriving in Northern Ireland on Jan. 8, I didn't know what to expect before visiting Belfast last week. I did know about a good local cafe-coffee shop (Common Grounds) and a couple of bookstores as well as stuff I had read in the Lonely Planet guide.
Common Grounds is an interesting place - not for profit, uses Fair Trade coffee and has excellent food. Along with a couple of stops at a Starbucks, I had the best coffee since leaving home.
Belfast has many attractions and I got to sample a few of these along with a couple of Corrymeela related meetings. Compared to many new cities I have visited, I found it quite easy to get my orientation in the city centre and the Queen's University-Botanic Gardens areas. I like the compactness of the city as I was able to easily walk every place I wanted to see on this trip.
On the first morning, the initial stop was at the Belfast Welcome Centre located near the imposing landmark of City Hall. Equipped with a city map and information, I set out to familiarize myself with the downtown. Having been strongly encouraged to tour city hall, I stopped to check it out. However, the timing didn't make it possible to complete a tour then and also make a luncheon appointment. So, I set out for Common Grounds near Queen's U by walking what is called the Golden Mile (actually it is about 1.5 km) along Great Victoria Street, through Shaftesbury Square and Botanic Avenue. I stayed in this area for the next two nights, so the walk helped with orientation. There are dozens of restaurants, bars and an eclectic mix of shops and stores on the Golden Mile. It was a very enjoyable walk in great weather.
Day Two: Queen`s University, City Hall, the Murals and More
The day started with a walk through part of the Queen's University campus, with its red brick and sand stone buildings, followed by a relaxing stroll through the Botanic Gardens and about 90 minutes exploring the Ulster Museum (no admission charge). It is an impressive facility with many display areas. I focused on the section devoted to Irish history from the prehistoric period through "The Troubles." (See below for a brief explanation.) I then finished my stroll through the campus before heading back toward the city centre. I always enjoy walking around university campuses with all the energy of youth combined with what I find to be a relaxing environment. I must admit, however, that many students may not quite agreement it always being a relaxing place.
I then headed to city hall for a guided tour and must say that it was really worth while, including the fact that there is no admission charge. Its doors opened in 1906, which the brochure describes as a time of ``unprecedented prosperity and industrial might in the city.`` The building style is classic Renaissance with white stone and when entering through the main door at the front, one cannot help but be impressed with the 53 metre high dome, the entrance hall and the grand staircase with landings that use four types of marble. There are many windows of stained glass, murals and classic light fixtures. The guided tour included the Council Chamber, with the opportunity to sit in the Lord Mayor`s chair, the reception and banquet halls, and the Great Hall. Check it out www.belfastcity.gov.uk.
Belfast Murals
Other than spending time with some friends, the main attraction for my first visit to Belfast was to see the murals. I understand that Belfast has a tradition of political murals that goes back about a century and this tradition really came alive during the late 1970s as ``The Troubles`` continued. Murals have been used (still are in some areas) to identify sectarian territory as well as acknowledge historical events and actions by terrorists and others. In Belfast, there are many republican or nationalist murals related to events such as the hunger strike at Maze Prison and other that extend wider political issues, some well beyond Northern Ireland. The republican murals tend to be artist and rich in symbolism.
While there is debate about the Belfast murals being a reminder of a violent past that many want to leave behind, many others feel they are an important part of the history of Northern Ireland. Regardless of what a person thinks about the social, sectarian and political issues, I think the murals are a striking part of the Belfast visual landscape. If at all possible, I want to return to Belfast to see some of the same murals again as well as others in different parts of the city.
My trip to Belfast was topped off by have dinner and totally great evening with three friends I have known for some time (one of whom first told me about Corrymeela) and a new friend. We shared an excellent time of home cooking, conversation and a few cold beverages.
Day Three: Chill and Travel Back to Corrymeela
On my last day in Belfast, I relaxed in the morning and then slowly walked to the bus station for an early afternoon journey back to Ballycastle. While sitting in the bus-train station, I unexpectedly saw one of the Corrymeela long-term volunteers. We had a short chat as we were headed in different directions. The trip back to Ballycastle was interesting simply because it was the first time I had seen most of the area we traveled through during daylight hours. Back in BC, I was treated to another enjoyable walk along the beach!!
The Troubles
Before and since arriving in Northern Ireland, I have heard the term "The Troubles" used in many conversations. It may be helpful to provide a definition, but I must emphasize that this will be a very basic or simple definition for a complex topic. In brief, "The Troubles" refer to a period of social, political and sectarian (often intertwined) conflict in Northern Ireland that geographically extended at times to the Republic of Ireland, England and even further afield. The period for these conflicts is generally considered to be from the late 1960s through the "Good Friday Agreement" signed in 1998, but some consider the time frame to be slightly different. Even today, violence or threats of violence occur from time to time. The principal issues relate to the constitutional status of Northern Ireland and the relationships between the unionist (mostly Protestant) and nationalist (mostly Catholic) groups and communities in Northern Ireland.
This post is much longer than anticipated, but I hope you enjoy it.
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