Introduction
Prior to embarking on this adventure I wrote one post with a bit of background on the Camino. I completed the journey about two months ago, but have been very slow in writing more posts. Without a "real" deadline, it is easy to procrastinate. In this case, there is much to write about - deciding where to start and selecting the most important stuff have been more challenging than anticipated.
Off the top - what I write about my time on the Camino is based on my own experiences, observations and interpretations. While I expect other pilgrims may have experienced similar or maybe even some of the same things, each person's Camino is their own.
I posted regular updates of my progress on my Facebook site during the walk, so decided the focus of the travel blog would be on the experience itself.
Any reference to the Camino in my posts will refer to the Camino Frances, which starts in St. Jean Pied de Port in France and ends in Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. This route is widely know as the Camino de Santiago or simply the Camino. There are a number of other pilgrimage routes in Spain and Portugal that either link to the Camino Frances or go directly to Santiago de Compostela. It is also interesting to note that the Camino is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Sharing the Experience
When I first started exploring what would be involved with walking the Camino, I was completely comfortable with making the journey on my own and had anticipated doing so until about 9-10 months prior to going. Even though my early research was done with the intention of going alone, I was open to sharing the experience with a friend or two even though I did not actively seek people to join me or vice versa. I was hesitant to spread the circle too wide simply because many things can get complicated by undertaking something like this with a large group of people. As it turned out, I walked the Camino with two great friends (Phil and Gray - first names only), which turned out to be a hugely positive experience. Despite our different personalities, we have many similar interests and all of us are open to new experiences. We did not have any arguments or disagreements; we came to group decisions quickly and easily; and we had many laughs, excellent conversations and enjoyed spending time together. It was an incredible gift to spend this time with them.
Why walk the Camino?
In some senses, I am still sorting through the "why" question in my mind. One reason for the Camino adventure was for the experience of walking 790 km at one time rather than spreading it over three or four years. Another reason was to spend a lengthy period of time in a country that has been of interest to me for many years....don't know why I had not traveled there until now. I also wanted to have the experience of not knowing what to expect for so many days. Actually, I think all days are like that, but it doesn't seem to be the case when the routine is known and we are in an environment characterized by familiarity. The idea of living for several weeks with a minimal amount clothing, gear and other comforts was appealing.
In planning details over several months, I very much looked forward to meeting other people along the way. That certainly happened! (More on this in another post.)
Does a pilgrimage imply a spiritual reason for walking the Camino? Yes it does! Pilgrims or, as they are called in Spain, peregrinos have been walking the Camino and other pilgrimage routes for centuries with a spiritual purpose in mind. A spiritual or religious rationale for walking the Camino is still the central reason why many people take this journey. In more recent years, however, the Camino has become a tourist attraction for many with a strong focus on the athletic or physical aspect of the journey rather than spiritual or religious.
Along with the reasons noted above, there was a spiritual focus to why I wanted to undertake this 790 km journey. It wasn't until a couple of months prior to departing for Spain, however, that I started to seriously reflect on the spiritual and emotional aspects of why I wanted to do this. It really came down to wanting the Camino to provide opportunities: 1) to assess the direction of my life in terms of how I use my time and resources; and 2) to think about the future direction of my life and how to best use my time, energy and skills to make a positive difference.
Looking back, I can say without hesitation that all the reasons "why" I wanted to walk the Camino turned out positive. The amount of time and distance involved with walking were instrumental in helping achieve these things. While I do a lot of walking and hiking on an ongoing basis at home that provide opportunities for reflection, an extended period of walking and reflection spread over more than five weeks created daily opportunities. One of the things that aided in this process was stopping for times of prayer and silence in many churches and at other places of significance on the Camino as well as writing in a journal about each day's experience.
A Few Facts
Without citing a lot of statistics, I thought you might be interested the following.
Prior to embarking on this adventure I wrote one post with a bit of background on the Camino. I completed the journey about two months ago, but have been very slow in writing more posts. Without a "real" deadline, it is easy to procrastinate. In this case, there is much to write about - deciding where to start and selecting the most important stuff have been more challenging than anticipated.
Off the top - what I write about my time on the Camino is based on my own experiences, observations and interpretations. While I expect other pilgrims may have experienced similar or maybe even some of the same things, each person's Camino is their own.
I posted regular updates of my progress on my Facebook site during the walk, so decided the focus of the travel blog would be on the experience itself.
Any reference to the Camino in my posts will refer to the Camino Frances, which starts in St. Jean Pied de Port in France and ends in Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. This route is widely know as the Camino de Santiago or simply the Camino. There are a number of other pilgrimage routes in Spain and Portugal that either link to the Camino Frances or go directly to Santiago de Compostela. It is also interesting to note that the Camino is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Sharing the Experience
When I first started exploring what would be involved with walking the Camino, I was completely comfortable with making the journey on my own and had anticipated doing so until about 9-10 months prior to going. Even though my early research was done with the intention of going alone, I was open to sharing the experience with a friend or two even though I did not actively seek people to join me or vice versa. I was hesitant to spread the circle too wide simply because many things can get complicated by undertaking something like this with a large group of people. As it turned out, I walked the Camino with two great friends (Phil and Gray - first names only), which turned out to be a hugely positive experience. Despite our different personalities, we have many similar interests and all of us are open to new experiences. We did not have any arguments or disagreements; we came to group decisions quickly and easily; and we had many laughs, excellent conversations and enjoyed spending time together. It was an incredible gift to spend this time with them.
Why walk the Camino?
In some senses, I am still sorting through the "why" question in my mind. One reason for the Camino adventure was for the experience of walking 790 km at one time rather than spreading it over three or four years. Another reason was to spend a lengthy period of time in a country that has been of interest to me for many years....don't know why I had not traveled there until now. I also wanted to have the experience of not knowing what to expect for so many days. Actually, I think all days are like that, but it doesn't seem to be the case when the routine is known and we are in an environment characterized by familiarity. The idea of living for several weeks with a minimal amount clothing, gear and other comforts was appealing.
In planning details over several months, I very much looked forward to meeting other people along the way. That certainly happened! (More on this in another post.)
Does a pilgrimage imply a spiritual reason for walking the Camino? Yes it does! Pilgrims or, as they are called in Spain, peregrinos have been walking the Camino and other pilgrimage routes for centuries with a spiritual purpose in mind. A spiritual or religious rationale for walking the Camino is still the central reason why many people take this journey. In more recent years, however, the Camino has become a tourist attraction for many with a strong focus on the athletic or physical aspect of the journey rather than spiritual or religious.
Along with the reasons noted above, there was a spiritual focus to why I wanted to undertake this 790 km journey. It wasn't until a couple of months prior to departing for Spain, however, that I started to seriously reflect on the spiritual and emotional aspects of why I wanted to do this. It really came down to wanting the Camino to provide opportunities: 1) to assess the direction of my life in terms of how I use my time and resources; and 2) to think about the future direction of my life and how to best use my time, energy and skills to make a positive difference.
Looking back, I can say without hesitation that all the reasons "why" I wanted to walk the Camino turned out positive. The amount of time and distance involved with walking were instrumental in helping achieve these things. While I do a lot of walking and hiking on an ongoing basis at home that provide opportunities for reflection, an extended period of walking and reflection spread over more than five weeks created daily opportunities. One of the things that aided in this process was stopping for times of prayer and silence in many churches and at other places of significance on the Camino as well as writing in a journal about each day's experience.
A Few Facts
Without citing a lot of statistics, I thought you might be interested the following.
- We walked from Sept. 21 to Oct. 29.
- This translates into 36 days plus three break days.
- Our daily walking averaged 21.9 km.
- The longest day was 31.8 km.
- The shortest day was 8.0 km (day one).
- We had three days of walking more than 30.0 km.
- Our break days came after walking 9, 14 and 22 days.
- Our break days were in the cities of Logrono, Burgos and Leon.
- I took well over 3,000 photos!
- 214,221 pilgrims registered at the Pilgrims' Office in Santiago; an increase of 12 % from 2012
- 3,345 Canadians registered in 2013; an increase of 16 %
- In numbers of pilgrims, Canada ranks 9th after Spain, Germany, Italy, Portugal, the USA, France, Ireland and the UK
- Of the 214,221 pilgrims who registered at the Pilgrims' Office in Santiago, 70 % (150,622) walked the Camino Frances (the same route we walked); the remainder took another route
- 28 % of pilgrims were under 30 years of age; 56 % between 30 and 60 years of age; and, 16 % were over 60 years of age
- 87 % of pilgrims walked the Camino; 12 % went by bicycle; and the reminder went either by horse (976) or wheel chair (61)
- 12 % started in St. Jean Pied de Port (where we started); 24 % started in Sarria, which is 115 km from Santiago de Compostela; note that pilgrims are required to provide evidence of having walked at least 100 km in order to receive a compostela (certificate of completion) when arriving in Santiago; others started elsewhere
I hope these statistics help provide context for this adventure.
Credential issued by the Canadian Company of Pilgrims
Credential picked up on the Camino after stamps
filled the one from Canada
Compostela issued at the Pilgrims' Office in
Santiago de Compostela upon completion
Over the Camino's 790 km, a wide range of terrain and walking conditions are encountered. The terrain varies - mountainous, rolling hills, flat sections, villages, towns and cities. The starting point of St. Jean Pied de Port is set in the Pyrenees, so notable elevation gain is experienced immediately when embarking on the journey.
From east to west, the Camino route crosses four major regions of Spain - Navarra, La Rioja, Castilla y Leon and Galacia. Castilla y Leon is divided into three sections (Burgos, Palencia and Leon) and Galacia is divided into two sections (Lugo and La Coruna). In terms of geographical area, the wine growing region of La Rioja is the smallest and Castilla y Leon is the largest.
The highest elevation point on the Camino route of 1,505 metres (4,940 feet) is reached at La Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross), almost three-quarters of the way to Santiago. The second highest elevation point is in the Pyrenees (1,450 metres/4,757 feet) near the village of Roncesvalles. The first third of the Camino has the highest average daily accrued ascent at 430 metres (1,410 feet); the middle third is comparatively flat and the average daily accrued ascent is 150 metres (almost 500 feet); and the final third has a daily average accrued ascent of 375 metres (about 1,050 feet). One day about the mid-point on the route was essentially a "flat" walking day.
Except for the one day just noted, all days involved elevation gain and loss. Many villages and towns were built on hills, which meant we usually experienced elevation gain when getting near a destination for "second breakfast," lunch or lodging. Stone walls or their remnants from centuries earlier were evident in the large towns and cities, usually encompassing the traditional centre or plaza. In several places, the Camino trail passes through an entrance in the stone wall. Many of these places had been built as a fortress.
Given the day-to-day elevation variations, it is not likely surprising that the actual walking conditions also varied. Walking surfaces included - paved roads, gravel roads, farm roads and paths, natural pathways and trails, and sidewalks in cities and large towns. With the incredibly great weather we experienced, walking conditions were dry and there were only a few places where we encountered any water and/or mud on the trail; most of this occurred in the last third of the journey and we could easily avoid the mud and water most of the time.
We had to walk on or along paved roads quite often, but we rarely encountered much traffic so didn't have to be concerned as long as we stayed alert. In a few places, we walked on a well-marked path adjacent to a highway. Even though some of the guidebooks describe these situations quite negatively, this did not bother me.
I don't know the percentage breakdown for the various walking surfaces, but I was comfortable with all of it except the final section on the 14th day of walking. By following the signs and guidebook directions into Burgos, we walked for several km through an industrial area on city streets. While this eventually took us into the city centre, it was the most monotonous section of the entire Camino. While the scenery improved a great deal after we got past the factories and warehouses, we were definitely tired and ready for a break!! After arriving in Burgos, we learned from other pilgrims that there was an alternate route into the city that was much more better for walking.
Many sections require walking through farming areas ranging in size from small operations to very large industrial scale operations. In the centre of the country characterized by flatness and spacious plains, there are huge fields of grain, while in the hilly and mountainous areas of Galacia the farming was a mixture of crop growing, dairy and raising livestock for meat. In La Rioja and parts of Castilla y Leon, there were many vineyards and we walked past large areas where the vines were laden with grapes.
Finding the Way
When making the journey, pilgrims are well served by markers and signs throughout the entire route. While there were a few places where it was a bit confusing to find the way out of a town or village, the confusion was always short lived. We used a guidebook by British writer John Brierley and it seemed to be the choice of many pilgrims. The guidebook is regularly updated, so virtually all the information is current. According to some people, Brierley walks the Camino every year. It is a great resource and it was used a number of times every day. Brierley provides details on many things, including distances for the various stages and between places in each stage. When reading some of the distance signs along the Camino, we noticed a discrepancy with what was published in the guide. The discrepancies were not significant or problematic, so I used Brierley's numbers for my records.
The signs and markers vary somewhat along the way, but two things are consistent - yellow directional arrows and the scallop shell flash. It is important to look for the yellow arrows as these can be located on a wall at eye level or much higher or on a sidewalk, street, curb, tree, boulder, etc. There were frequent distance markers in the form of signs or cement posts; some of these are relatively new while others obviously have been in place for many years.
With all the signs and yellow arrows, we did not lose our way. However, I can see why this would be easy to do in some places especially if one is preoccupied and not attentive. The aspect of finding the way was also made easier by having three of us watching for directions instead of being alone. Before starting each day, we always had a pretty good understanding of the town/villages we would pass through and the desired destination.
It needs to be noted that there are a number of places where there are optional routes for a section. We always stayed on the main route, but know others who decided to take an alternative route for part of a day. We know at least one person who a wrong turn at one point and ended up about 10 km off course. While he was able to get directed back to the route, it meant walking a lot of additional kms - not good for tired legs and sore feet. Another thing that works well is to "follow the crowd" if you're wondering about the right the direction.
Stay tuned.....
Upcoming posts will talk about food, albergue life, experiences with other pilgrims, churches and cathedrals, Roman influences, La Cruz de Ferro, daily routine and more.
St. Jean Pied de Port
Pilgrims' Office in St. Jean Pied de Port
Pilgrims' Office in Santiago de Compostela
Pyrenees
Early morning in the Pyrenees
Except for the one day just noted, all days involved elevation gain and loss. Many villages and towns were built on hills, which meant we usually experienced elevation gain when getting near a destination for "second breakfast," lunch or lodging. Stone walls or their remnants from centuries earlier were evident in the large towns and cities, usually encompassing the traditional centre or plaza. In several places, the Camino trail passes through an entrance in the stone wall. Many of these places had been built as a fortress.
Given the day-to-day elevation variations, it is not likely surprising that the actual walking conditions also varied. Walking surfaces included - paved roads, gravel roads, farm roads and paths, natural pathways and trails, and sidewalks in cities and large towns. With the incredibly great weather we experienced, walking conditions were dry and there were only a few places where we encountered any water and/or mud on the trail; most of this occurred in the last third of the journey and we could easily avoid the mud and water most of the time.
We had to walk on or along paved roads quite often, but we rarely encountered much traffic so didn't have to be concerned as long as we stayed alert. In a few places, we walked on a well-marked path adjacent to a highway. Even though some of the guidebooks describe these situations quite negatively, this did not bother me.
I don't know the percentage breakdown for the various walking surfaces, but I was comfortable with all of it except the final section on the 14th day of walking. By following the signs and guidebook directions into Burgos, we walked for several km through an industrial area on city streets. While this eventually took us into the city centre, it was the most monotonous section of the entire Camino. While the scenery improved a great deal after we got past the factories and warehouses, we were definitely tired and ready for a break!! After arriving in Burgos, we learned from other pilgrims that there was an alternate route into the city that was much more better for walking.
Many sections require walking through farming areas ranging in size from small operations to very large industrial scale operations. In the centre of the country characterized by flatness and spacious plains, there are huge fields of grain, while in the hilly and mountainous areas of Galacia the farming was a mixture of crop growing, dairy and raising livestock for meat. In La Rioja and parts of Castilla y Leon, there were many vineyards and we walked past large areas where the vines were laden with grapes.
Finding the Way
When making the journey, pilgrims are well served by markers and signs throughout the entire route. While there were a few places where it was a bit confusing to find the way out of a town or village, the confusion was always short lived. We used a guidebook by British writer John Brierley and it seemed to be the choice of many pilgrims. The guidebook is regularly updated, so virtually all the information is current. According to some people, Brierley walks the Camino every year. It is a great resource and it was used a number of times every day. Brierley provides details on many things, including distances for the various stages and between places in each stage. When reading some of the distance signs along the Camino, we noticed a discrepancy with what was published in the guide. The discrepancies were not significant or problematic, so I used Brierley's numbers for my records.
The signs and markers vary somewhat along the way, but two things are consistent - yellow directional arrows and the scallop shell flash. It is important to look for the yellow arrows as these can be located on a wall at eye level or much higher or on a sidewalk, street, curb, tree, boulder, etc. There were frequent distance markers in the form of signs or cement posts; some of these are relatively new while others obviously have been in place for many years.
With all the signs and yellow arrows, we did not lose our way. However, I can see why this would be easy to do in some places especially if one is preoccupied and not attentive. The aspect of finding the way was also made easier by having three of us watching for directions instead of being alone. Before starting each day, we always had a pretty good understanding of the town/villages we would pass through and the desired destination.
It needs to be noted that there are a number of places where there are optional routes for a section. We always stayed on the main route, but know others who decided to take an alternative route for part of a day. We know at least one person who a wrong turn at one point and ended up about 10 km off course. While he was able to get directed back to the route, it meant walking a lot of additional kms - not good for tired legs and sore feet. Another thing that works well is to "follow the crowd" if you're wondering about the right the direction.
Stay tuned.....
Upcoming posts will talk about food, albergue life, experiences with other pilgrims, churches and cathedrals, Roman influences, La Cruz de Ferro, daily routine and more.
Sunset over the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela
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