Writer's Note - Started writing this in January 2017, but life intervened and did not complete until early August 2018.
Introduction
After finishing my first Camino in 2013, I was quite sure I'd return to Spain to walk another Camino. Over the next couple of years, my two Camino friends (Phil and Gray) and I had many conversations about this possibility and all of us were positive about the prospect. In early 2016, we decided a few things: 1) we didn't want to repeat all of the same route (Camino Frances); 2) we wanted to finish our pilgrimage in Santiago to again experience that historic city; and 3) we would welcome the opportunity to walk the Galacia section of the Camino Frances.
After lots of research and discussion on route options, we decided that our preferred option would be to walk the Camino Madrid and then connect with the Camino Frances at Sahagun. Essentially this turned out to be like walking two Caminos. While the full length of the Camino Frances is just under 800 km in length, our route combining the Camino Madrid and part of the Camino Frances is just under 700 km.
A few stats
For anyone interested in a few statistics, the following may be of interest:
I have inserted photos throughout the post, but here a few to whet your appetite about what we saw and experienced.
When walking the Camino in 2013, we stayed overnight in Sahagun and enjoyed it there. This time, however, arriving in Sahagun was a bit of a shock simply because of the busyness of the place and scores of pilgrims - a sharp contrast to what we had experienced for most of the previous two weeks. It was transition time and it took me a few days to adjust.
We stayed in the same place as in 2013 - the Cluny de Sahagun municipal shelter - which is a hostel exclusively for pilgrims. It is located in a old church converted into accommodation, showers, kitchen and eating area. On the entrance level, there is plenty of space to accommodate bicycles for those pilgrims making the journey in this way. The ground floor houses the local tourist office. Because of our relatively early arrival in Sahagun, we had plenty of time to explore. We went to a museum that featured local art from the area and it was also where we able to get a certificate indicating how far we had walked upon arriving in Sahagun. A bit later we went to a pilgrims' mass and then off for dinner.
From Sahagun, the Camino Frances goes through meseta (high plain) for about four days at which point there is a transition to rolling hills. Thereafter, the hills increase in elevation as the route steadily moves toward Galacia and the coast. Once in Galacia, there is plenty of elevation gain and loss pretty much every day. While the topographical change is notable, quite a lot of the walking is on footpaths with a substantial amount being on secondary and rural/farm roads. On the Camino Frances section (about 370 km), we walked through many towns, villages and a number of larger centres with plenty of infrastructure to support pilgrims, which was a sharp contrast with virtually all but a few places on the Camino Madrid. On the Camino Frances, there are many options for lodging, restaurants/bars, grocery stores and other services. This meant much less planning than for the Camino Madrid.
Our first day of walking on the Camino Frances was short at only 14 km. In planning this segment of our pilgrimage, I felt it would be good to not always stop at the villages/towns suggested in most guidebooks as end stages as this generally means that albergues are likely to be busy. It also seemed like a good opportunity to stay in a few different villages than in 2013thereby trying a few new albergues.
One of the highlights on our first day of the Camino Frances was stopping for a proper "second breakfast" of bacon, eggs, freshly squeezed orange juice and cafe con leche!!! We did not experience this on the Camino Madrid, so we were ready.
Over the next couple of days, we made our way to the city of Leon where we took another planned break day. We walked through agricultural areas, which always makes me think of my dad and his interest in how farming would be done various places. At one point, I stopped to watch a large tractor tilling a recently harvested field. I wasn't familiar with the attachment being pulled so stopped to take a few photos and, as I was doing this, the operator stopped, got out of his tractor, came over to shake my hand and wished me Buen Camino! Another one of those completely unexpected incidents that help make walking like this so interesting.
Speaking of Leon, it is one of my favourite places on the Camino Frances and I cannot think of a better place for a rest day. It has a strong sense of history just about everywhere, a beautiful cathedral, attractive public plazas and many services. We stayed in a private hostel on the Camino route less than two blocks from the cathedral and main city plaza. While I enjoy exploring new places, it is also satisfying to arrive in a place where the surroundings are familiar with good memories. We did not anticipate it, but Leon was festival central on the two days we were there this time. There were parades to celebrate the fall harvest and the agreement/understanding reached between the Moors and Christians to return control of the city and area back to Christian control. The colourful harvest parade involved the participation of many small agricultural communities with wagons pulled by oxen, horses or donkeys celebrating some aspect of the harvest bounty - grapes, veggies, etc.
One thing I like about Spain is having so much public space in plazas and similar areas that are used by people of all ages. Leon is a great example of a place with many public spaces where it is common to see three generations of families out for dinner or a walk. It is heartwarming to see so many older folks out for a walk and a talk. The women often walk arm-and-arm with of 2 or 3 and sometimes 4 people.
Following our break day in Leon we headed off across the flat terrain to the small rural village of Vilar de Mazarife, where we had stopped in 2013. It's a pleasant village with a great little market where we were able to get provisions for the next day's lunch. There are a few lodging options and we stayed at a private albergue near the entrance to town. After the standard routine of having a shower and hand washing laundry, we relaxed on the front porch for a while before walking to the market in the centre of the village. There is nothing especially notable about Mazarife, but it truly reflects what it is like spend a small bit of time in a village on the meseta. FYI - the meseta is the name given to the large and expansive flat plains of central Spain. The meseta is renowned for long stages of walking, empty landscapes, and big skies, while typically very hot and dray in the summer and freezing cold in the winter!
The terrain after Astorga changes with notable ascents and descents for the remainder of the distance to Santiago de Compostela. Over the 27 km on October 5 (20th day of walking), the elevation gain was 540 metres (1,770 feet) - a long day. Our walk was intentionally longer than necessary because we wanted to reach Foncebadon, so the next day's walk to the Iron Cross (Cruz de Ferro) would allow us to arrive there for sunrise.
The Iron Cross marks the highest point (about 1,500 metres or 4,920 feet) of the Camino Frances and is where many pilgrims stop for a time of prayer and reflection. Many pilgrims also leave stones as a symbol of prayer or remembrance for someone, or for another reason. We were awake early and had a coffee while it was still dark before starting the 2 km distance to the Iron Cross. The sunrise was evident before we arrived, but the sky was overcast so we didn't get the beautiful sunrise we'd seen for the past several mornings. When we arrived, there were a number of others at the cross (some walking pilgrims and several other people from a tour bus), but we were patient as we wanted to spend time for reflection with as much stillness as possible. I had brought several small white stones that I had gathered at a couple of beaches near home and one from Northern Ireland. It was a powerful time emotionally and spiritually as I placed stones and prayed after placing each stone. Everyone has their own reason for walking the Camino and, for me, I am extremely grateful for again having the opportunity to walk this historic route and spend time with friends at the Iron Cross.
Here are a few photos of the signs, symbols and markers that guided us. I've also included a few other photos of fun and interesting things.
To give an idea of cost, we paid (per person) between €5-9/night for albergues (sometimes by donation) and an average of €22/night for private hostels. The hostel cost included breakfast most times and dinner in a couple of places. All of our accommodation was good and some of it can easily be classed as very comfortable. We also stayed in a couple of hotels (Valladolid and Santiago) with the costs being notably higher but still reasonable.
"First" breakfast often was basic - coffee, croissant/bun and orange juice. This was enough to get us started and later we would stop for "second breakfast" for something much more substantial. When this happened, we would skip lunch and then find a substantial dinner. The light breakfast in some albegues was included in the cost of lodging, while "second breakfasts" generally were about €5 or €6. We did not have "second" breakfasts until on the Camino Frances.
Except for one village on the Camino Madrid, we always found a place for meals. In Castromonte, we stayed at the albergue, which was a converted school with 30 beds. Upon arrival, we had to call sometime to open the albergue and the fee was by donation. One of the main features of this albergue was a well equipped kitchen with a pantry well stocked with food. While the town had one bar for a cold beer and a very limited selection of snacks, dinner was made from items in the albergue pantry. There was a sign indicating that we should help ourselves to the food. An excellent example of the Camino giving you what you need.
On a day when we weren't sure what might be available for a mid or late morning breakfast, we would purchase the makings for lunch - bread, cheese, sliced meat and sometimes sweets. We would find a good place to stop, assemble the sandwiches and take a break. On our second day of walking, we missed out on being prepared for lunch so we dipped into a couple of things we had with us by sharing a package of beef jerky and a roll of Mentos.
Another thing to mention is that anytime we purchased beer or wine, it was inexpensive.
Occasionally I am asked how much it costs to walk the Camino. The answer varies from person to person and according to the type of experience you want. In our case, I estimate that we spent about €30-35 per day except possibly when we were in Segovia, Leon and Santiago, where it is a bit more expensive. This was especially the case in Santiago because we stayed in a nice hotel. The bottom line - walking the Camino can be a comparatively inexpensive when compared with other travel.
On a few occasions we met people walking and engaged them in conversation briefly. Some were out for a day hike or weekend hike. On our third day of walking, we chatted with five people who were part of a local hiking club. They were friendly and spoke about as much English as we spoke Spanish, which made for an interesting chat. The bottom line - we learned they were part of a local hiking club and they learned we were walking to Santiago.
Our day-eight destination was the village of Villeguillo, where we quickly found the 20-bed, comfortable albergue. We registered with the hospitalero (in another part of the village) and paid €5 each for the night. After a hot shower, sorting through our clothing and gear, and putting on clean clothes, we walked into the centre of the village where food and drink could be purchased. We were joined by Hanns for cold drinks and dinner. When arriving back at the albergue after dinner, another pilgrim had arrived - a spirited and opinionated young woman from Bulgaria. Her English was excellent so we engaged her in conversation. She did not have any food, so we were able to provide her with some of what we had leftover from our lunch provisions. She was walking alone and remarked that she had very little conversation since starting to walk a few days earlier. At one point, the topic of yogurt came into a conversation with someone saying they enjoyed Greek yogurt. The young Bulgarian woman (Margrit) declared that the absolutely best yogurt was from Bulgaria. She was passionate about Bulgarian yogurt and we found the discussion humorous. Just before sunset, the hospitalero stopped in or a visit to give us some freshly picked raspberries and stayed for quite a while to talk about the crops grown in the area and the local harvesting techniques (Michel helped with translation). This was an enjoyable conversation mixing some English and Spanish. To end the day we were treated to a beautiful sunset with the promise of another hot day to follow.
In the town of Trabadelo, we found a great bar/restaurant with genuine home cooking and appealing menu choices, which typically is not the case in many of the smaller towns. After settling into the albergue and getting cleaned up, we stopped by the "gastropub" to relax with a snack and cold beverage. While there, I struck up a bit of a conversation with four men from Ireland, three from Northern Ireland. Through our conversation, I shared a bit about my time at the Corrymeela peace and reconciliation in Northern Ireland and they knew about the organization. It really is a smaller world than we often realize. As the Irish would say, it was great "craic."
Right to the end, we continued to meet interesting people from around the world - New Zealand, Denmark, Australia, South Korea, Japan, Ireland, Nothern Ireland, Germany, South Africa, USA, different parts of Canada and the list goes on. One day, I had a long conversation with a young man from Glasgow (Sean) about walking routes and places in Scotland which is of great interest to me. Our conversation turned to other matters after he told me that he had Northern Ireland roots on his dad's side of the family. Also during the last days of walking, I had the pleasure of walking with a young woman (Jenna) from Minnesota.
Once on the Camino Frances, we encountered many people and at times it seemed a bit overwhelming. When arriving in Sahagun, we encountered more pilgrims within a few minutes than we had the previous two weeks. I found this to be a significant transition because I very much enjoyed the peace and solitude of the first 320 km. Like most things in life, however, it just took a couple of days to settle into the rhythm and culture of the busier Camino Frances. After leaving Sarria we met a wonderful mother-daughter combo (Lise and Ane from Denmark) who we walked with quite a bit for a few days.
Here a few photos of us and other pilgrims (not many others).
Magnum ice cream bars: After walking 34 km on day six, we had to cover only 12 km on day seven to reach our destination of Nava de la Ascuncion, where we had a reservation at a private hostel called Tiara. Knowing from the guidebook that the hostel would be off the route a bit, we started following what was the correct direction. Just after checking the map, a young man came up behind us and in English asked if we were looking for the Tiara hostel. After an affirmative response, he informed us that his mother owned the hostel. He gave us a ride to the Tiara in his car (only a couple of blocks). While our shared bedroom was small, we had access to the most of the house - kitchen, living room, patio/pool area. On top of this, we could avail ourselves of any food and drink (wine and beer) in the fridge and snacks in the cupboards. We could come and go as we pleased. As we were relaxing in the late evening, the owner arrived back with Magnum ice cream bars for us! A much appreciated surprise. As in many towns across rural Spain, the early fall is a time of festivals and harvest celebrations that include local "running of the bulls." After settling at the Tiara, having a shower, hand washing a few things and lunch, we walked into the centre of town to check out what was happening. It was a busy place with many people out celebrating and we even came across a band getting to march in a parade. Among the things we checked was the area for the running of the bulls and the ring where bullfights were held - none of this occurred when we were in town but it was interesting to see. As often was the case when the three of us explore villages and towns, we had many laughs and that certainly was the case in Nava de la Ascuncion. After a hearty breakfast the next morning, we were back on the Camino just a few minutes from the hostel. The total cost at the Tiara for everything was €80!! As we were heading out of town, we stopped at a post office (Correos) so I could purchase stamps. Using my limited Spanish, the clerk was very helpful - once again demonstrating the kindness of strangers.
Planning an unexpected diversion:
When we arrived in the village of Alcazaren, we were at about the mid-point of the Camino Madrid. During the day, one of my walking mates became increasingly concerned about a dental problem that needed attention. After settling into the modern albergue in Alcazaren and having some lunch, efforts were underway to locate a dental office in the city of Valladolid and to sort out transportation to get there. Making these arrangements was greatly aided by Michel as he is fluent in Spanish and the owner of our lunch/dinner bar was also helpful. This meant we caught an early morning bus that took us to Valladolid, where we caught a taxi to the dental office. The dental work went smoothly and by late morning we were sitting in a great little bakery/cafe where the coffee and eats were good. After having our appetites satisfied, we went on a search for a taxi to take us to our lodging (a nice hotel). When obviously looking a bit disoriented, a local woman came up to us and asked us if we were looking for a taxi and directed us to a taxi stand just a couple of minutes from where we were. She could easily have ignored us, but showed a spirit of hospitality and helpfulness that was much appreciated.
Just a cow bell: Back on the Camino after the diversion to Valladolid, we started walking in a cool and sunny early morning from the village of Wamba (pronounced Bamba). After about 7 km we arrived in Penaflor de Hornija, where we stop for café con leche and snack at a local bar on the main plaza. I went to the bar to order our coffee/snacks and, after paying, I left a tip. After picking up the tip, the bartender went over and rang a cowbell hanging from the ceiling. He received an applause from the crowd - a very humorous moment. The bar had an upbeat atmosphere and we really enjoyed the stop. Before leaving, we went over to the bar to shake hands with the bartender and had a few more laughs. He wished us Buen Camino as we headed out the door. When we stepped outside, we saw an old car just like Inspector Clousteau's car in the Pink Panther movies.
Our choice of bed:
When arriving in Castromonte, we easily found the albergue near the entrance to the village. The instructions were to call the mayor to have the albergue opened. He arrived quickly and warmly welcomed us as he unlocked the door and also inviting us to avail ourselves of their food supplies because very little is available in the village. It was a great albergue - spacious sleeping area, 20 beds, clean, kitchen, laundry sink, clothesline and just a short walk to the only place to get a beverage and limited food. All of the food and the lodging cost was by donation! Not much to see or do there and the village was quiet except at the bar, where we could get a beer/soft drink and some snack foods. One of my mates cooked a good dinner meal with the available provisions at the albergue and it tasted especially good.
A warm welcome: After a 6 km walk from Castromonte, we arrived in the village of Valaverde de Campos just as the Sunday church service was ending. This provided as an opportunity to go into the church for what we thought might be a time of quiet reflection. However, we were welcomed by a handful of women who had just attended the service. There was no priest, but one woman from another village was in charge. They proudly and warmly showed us their church and we took the opportunity of leaving an offering. The woman in charge showed us the offering that had been given by local people and it was a handful of coins. They were most grateful for our donation. Upon leaving the church, one of the women introduced us to her son who knew a bit of English. They accompanied us to a local bar just a short distance away and ensured we were well cared for. We were again humbled by the warm hospitality of strangers.
Hospitaleros extraordinaire:
Introduction
After finishing my first Camino in 2013, I was quite sure I'd return to Spain to walk another Camino. Over the next couple of years, my two Camino friends (Phil and Gray) and I had many conversations about this possibility and all of us were positive about the prospect. In early 2016, we decided a few things: 1) we didn't want to repeat all of the same route (Camino Frances); 2) we wanted to finish our pilgrimage in Santiago to again experience that historic city; and 3) we would welcome the opportunity to walk the Galacia section of the Camino Frances.
A few stats
For anyone interested in a few statistics, the following may be of interest:
- started walking on Sept. 14
- arrived in Santiago on Oct. 17
- took 3 break days - Segovia, Leon and Sarria
- 31 days of walking
- average daily walking distance of just over 22 km
- daily walking distances varied between 12 km and 34 km
- Camino Madrid averages about 500 pilgrims or less annually
- Camino Frances averages 200,000+ pilgrimages annually; 2016 was an exceptionally busy year for pilgrims walking to Rome or Santiago de Compostela, as Pope Francis declared 2016 as a "Holy Year of Mercy," which meant the number of pilgrims was significantly higher
- Spanish is not an a requirement, but basic Spanish comes in handy; we found this especially helpful on the Camino Madrid
- On the Camino Madrid, we encountered only 7 other pilgrims and saw only two of them more than two times; we did encounter a few locals who were "day or weekend" walkers, near Madrid or Segovia
- On the Camino Frances, we saw scores (sometimes more) of pilgrims every day
I have inserted photos throughout the post, but here a few to whet your appetite about what we saw and experienced.
Starting point in Madrid
Day 1 - north of Madrid
Day 2 - north of Madrid
Roman Aqueduct - Segovia
Cathedral - Segovia
Sunset over Segovia aqueduct
Early morning - Wamba (Bamba)
Roman bridge - Molinaseca
Bread delivery - always with animated conversation
Walking - Conditions/topography/finding our way
The Camino Madrid can be divided into three main sections:
1) For the first 100 km, from Madrid to Segovia, the route climbs through the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains with one 8 km stretch having an 8% grade, which we encountered on day four with an elevation gain at the beginning of the day being 650 metres over the 8 km stretch. Total walking distance for day four was 31 km, which clearly was the most strenuous day of walking. Then, we took a planned break day in Segovia, so we had the opportunity to recharge our bodies and explore this great city. Segovia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
2) From Segovia to the Rio Duero the terrain is mostly flat. Much of this section is through farming areas with small villages. Near the end of this section, we stopped to overnight in the village of Alcazaren before a diversion to Valladolid for a dental emergency.
3) From the Rio Duero, we walked on to Sahagun where we joined the Camino Frances. This part of the journey was through high and dry plains - mesata - with long distances through farms.
2) From Segovia to the Rio Duero the terrain is mostly flat. Much of this section is through farming areas with small villages. Near the end of this section, we stopped to overnight in the village of Alcazaren before a diversion to Valladolid for a dental emergency.
3) From the Rio Duero, we walked on to Sahagun where we joined the Camino Frances. This part of the journey was through high and dry plains - mesata - with long distances through farms.
Camino Madrid walking is almost entirely on footpaths and along historic sheep and cattle herding routes, with a limited amount on paved roads. There are notable sections through pine forests with sandy paths/roads - very pleasant. When road walking was required, traffic was not a problem.
The next group of photos were taken along the Camino Madrid.
Shepard herding his flock with Sierra de Guadarrama mountains in the background
Walking to our lodging in Manzanares el Real - seeing what we will face in the next couple of days
Roman road through Sierra de Guadarrama mountains
Cowboys south of Segovia
North of Segovia
Pine forest - trees are tapped for sap used in cosmetics & other products
Farming is a major sector of economy
Typical scene when approaching a small town or village
Plenty of sunflowers are grown in Spain
Medina de Rioseco - Irish influence is widespread around the world
Medina de Rioseco
Near Villalon de Campos
Rare sight in September because most storks have left for winter in North Africa
Quite an early start
Church - Santaveras de Campos
Grajal de Campos - last lunch stop before Camino Frances
Our two weeks on the Camino Madrid seemed to pass quickly and our last night was another highlight. After a dusty 21 km journey on our 13th day of walking, we arrived in the lovely village of Santervas de Campos, where we were welcomed at the albergue by the mayor. The albergue is an old building with the second floor converted into a sleeping area with bunk beds and bathroom facilities; it is quite large and with 24 beds easily accommodated five of us. We ate lunch and dinner at Anna's bar next door, where the hospitality was amazing. Everything was freshly cooked for us and the food was delicious. In the evening, the mayor's wife gave us a guided tour of the church, which would have otherwise been closed. For our stay there, we were again joined by Hanns (Austria) and Michel (Manitoba); it was a wonderful time of story telling and fellowship with two guys we had grown to enjoy a great deal. It was a nice way to wrap up our last night on the Camino Madrid especially since Hanns and Michel would be heading in other directions than us after the following day. One mystery about Hanns that we never sorted out was how he always seemed to manage a cold beer in a substantially larger mug than what we were served.
Santervas de Campos has a big international connection
Our guide, Hanns, Michel and Gray
Our last day on the Camino Madrid involved 18 km of walking and a stop for lunch in Grajal de Campos before reaching the Sahagun and the Camino Frances. In reflecting on the 14 days since starting in Madrid and not knowing what awaited us, I very much enjoyed the quiet and solitude as it provided many opportunities for rich conversations and reflection. We started every day with the reading of a Bible verse and prayer; and, at some point later in the day each of us we share our gratitude for that day - a person or something else in our life for which we were grateful.
Arriving in Sahagun
We stayed in the same place as in 2013 - the Cluny de Sahagun municipal shelter - which is a hostel exclusively for pilgrims. It is located in a old church converted into accommodation, showers, kitchen and eating area. On the entrance level, there is plenty of space to accommodate bicycles for those pilgrims making the journey in this way. The ground floor houses the local tourist office. Because of our relatively early arrival in Sahagun, we had plenty of time to explore. We went to a museum that featured local art from the area and it was also where we able to get a certificate indicating how far we had walked upon arriving in Sahagun. A bit later we went to a pilgrims' mass and then off for dinner.
From Sahagun, the Camino Frances goes through meseta (high plain) for about four days at which point there is a transition to rolling hills. Thereafter, the hills increase in elevation as the route steadily moves toward Galacia and the coast. Once in Galacia, there is plenty of elevation gain and loss pretty much every day. While the topographical change is notable, quite a lot of the walking is on footpaths with a substantial amount being on secondary and rural/farm roads. On the Camino Frances section (about 370 km), we walked through many towns, villages and a number of larger centres with plenty of infrastructure to support pilgrims, which was a sharp contrast with virtually all but a few places on the Camino Madrid. On the Camino Frances, there are many options for lodging, restaurants/bars, grocery stores and other services. This meant much less planning than for the Camino Madrid.
Our first day of walking on the Camino Frances was short at only 14 km. In planning this segment of our pilgrimage, I felt it would be good to not always stop at the villages/towns suggested in most guidebooks as end stages as this generally means that albergues are likely to be busy. It also seemed like a good opportunity to stay in a few different villages than in 2013thereby trying a few new albergues.
One of the highlights on our first day of the Camino Frances was stopping for a proper "second breakfast" of bacon, eggs, freshly squeezed orange juice and cafe con leche!!! We did not experience this on the Camino Madrid, so we were ready.
Over the next couple of days, we made our way to the city of Leon where we took another planned break day. We walked through agricultural areas, which always makes me think of my dad and his interest in how farming would be done various places. At one point, I stopped to watch a large tractor tilling a recently harvested field. I wasn't familiar with the attachment being pulled so stopped to take a few photos and, as I was doing this, the operator stopped, got out of his tractor, came over to shake my hand and wished me Buen Camino! Another one of those completely unexpected incidents that help make walking like this so interesting.
Tractor with driver who got out to shake my hand - totally unexpected
Speaking of Leon, it is one of my favourite places on the Camino Frances and I cannot think of a better place for a rest day. It has a strong sense of history just about everywhere, a beautiful cathedral, attractive public plazas and many services. We stayed in a private hostel on the Camino route less than two blocks from the cathedral and main city plaza. While I enjoy exploring new places, it is also satisfying to arrive in a place where the surroundings are familiar with good memories. We did not anticipate it, but Leon was festival central on the two days we were there this time. There were parades to celebrate the fall harvest and the agreement/understanding reached between the Moors and Christians to return control of the city and area back to Christian control. The colourful harvest parade involved the participation of many small agricultural communities with wagons pulled by oxen, horses or donkeys celebrating some aspect of the harvest bounty - grapes, veggies, etc.
Leon cathedral
Leon cathedral
Leon cathedral
Hanging out with Gaudi in Leon
Relaxing in Villar de Mazarife
Roman bridge - Hospital del Orbigo
When leaving Mazarife, the next destination was Astorga, a 31 km walk through mainly flat terrain to the city of about 12,000 that essentially marks the end of the meseta. We continued to have excellent weather with temperature highs reaching 25-26 C in the late afternoon. We had an enjoyable evening that included dinner with another pilgrim (Will) we had met a few days earlier. 
Near Hospital del Orbigo
The terrain after Astorga changes with notable ascents and descents for the remainder of the distance to Santiago de Compostela. Over the 27 km on October 5 (20th day of walking), the elevation gain was 540 metres (1,770 feet) - a long day. Our walk was intentionally longer than necessary because we wanted to reach Foncebadon, so the next day's walk to the Iron Cross (Cruz de Ferro) would allow us to arrive there for sunrise.
The Iron Cross marks the highest point (about 1,500 metres or 4,920 feet) of the Camino Frances and is where many pilgrims stop for a time of prayer and reflection. Many pilgrims also leave stones as a symbol of prayer or remembrance for someone, or for another reason. We were awake early and had a coffee while it was still dark before starting the 2 km distance to the Iron Cross. The sunrise was evident before we arrived, but the sky was overcast so we didn't get the beautiful sunrise we'd seen for the past several mornings. When we arrived, there were a number of others at the cross (some walking pilgrims and several other people from a tour bus), but we were patient as we wanted to spend time for reflection with as much stillness as possible. I had brought several small white stones that I had gathered at a couple of beaches near home and one from Northern Ireland. It was a powerful time emotionally and spiritually as I placed stones and prayed after placing each stone. Everyone has their own reason for walking the Camino and, for me, I am extremely grateful for again having the opportunity to walk this historic route and spend time with friends at the Iron Cross.
Small stones brought from home that I left as a prayer or expression of gratitude
By the time we made the steep descent from the Iron Cross to the village of Acebo, we were ready for a hearty "second" breakfast. At the Iron Cross, we connected with Will and he joined us for breakfast. He had a knee injury, so was moving slowly and carefully. After another 8.5 km, we arrived at our destination for the day, the beautiful town of Molinaseca, where we stayed in a very nice private hostel with large private room, hot shower and what generally could be described as hotel comforts. This was a great town for overnighting - setting is beautiful, plenty of restaurants and other services. At 22 km, today's walk was about average in distance, but the descent of 895 metres (2,800 feet) was significant and placed some stress on the knees and quads.
Nearing Acebo
Molinaseca
Molinaseca
Credential and journal recovered: Another example of Spanish hospitality occurred after we arrived in Molinseca. A message was waiting for one of my friends when we arrived at the hostel from the owners of the albergue in Foncebadon who had found his pilgrim's credential and personal journal. The credential is critical for receiving a compostela (certificate of completion) when arriving in Santiago. Over the course of the journey, pilgrims have their passport stamped in various albrgues and bars as evidence they have walked the required distance of at least 100 km. After my friend called the owners of the hostel in Foncebadon, they came down the mountain to drop off the credential and journal simply out of the generosity of their heart.
After a pleasant stay in Molinseca, the next couple of days involved walking over terrain that had a limited amount of elevation change (ascent or descent). Two days after Molinaseca, we stopped in Trabedelo and spent much of the afternoon relaxing at one of the best pub/restaurants on the Camino Frances.
In this section after the Iron Cross, some of our overnight stops were in different towns/villages than in 2013. We did this in part to shorten the distance for the day we arrived in O'Cebreiro because that day would involve a significant elevation gain of 700 metres (about 2,300 feet). After the overnight in O'Cebreiro, our next destination was Triacastela where we stayed in an albergue located in the middle of the village. The albergue was in an old building that had been renovated into a modern facility - clean and comfortable.
In this section after the Iron Cross, some of our overnight stops were in different towns/villages than in 2013. We did this in part to shorten the distance for the day we arrived in O'Cebreiro because that day would involve a significant elevation gain of 700 metres (about 2,300 feet). After the overnight in O'Cebreiro, our next destination was Triacastela where we stayed in an albergue located in the middle of the village. The albergue was in an old building that had been renovated into a modern facility - clean and comfortable.
Chapel in O'Cebriero
From Triacastela, we decided to take the "alternative route" to Sarria. The attraction was the town of Samos described as a town that wraps itself around an enormous Benedictine monastery. While this route added an additional 6.5 km, it was well worth the extra time. Our arrival at the monastery was perfect timing as we were able to join a guided tour that was about to start. The large scale of the monastery always seemed to be present during the tour and it was remarkable to learn that there were only eight (8) monks there at present. After the tour, we walked around town a bit and found a place for lunch. With our appetites satisfied, we started to walk out of town. Very soon after getting started, one of the guys stumbled on the curb in front of the post office and had a nasty fall. Immediately, a number of local people were there to assist and we were guided to a small clinic that we had just walked past. At the clinic, his abrasions were treated quickly and, with pain killers in hand, we headed out of town again, albeit more carefully. We were grateful the injury was not more serious. The remainder of the day's walk was on forest paths and pastoral settings - spectacular.
On the way to Samos
First sighting of monastery
Monastery
The scallop shell is synonymous with the Camino and seen throughout Spain
Cloisters at the monastery
Scene of the tumble
On the way toward Sarria after leaving Samos
Our next destination was the small city of Sarria (population of 13,000), where we would take a break day and have a reunion with our larger-than-life Aussie friend Trevor who we met in 2013. Less than 30 minutes before arriving in Sarria on October 11, we encountered the first rain since leaving Madrid on September 14. However the rain did not last and we were able to explore Sarria which was not the case three years earlier. It was a fun reunion with sharing and story telling along with good food and some beverages. A very important highlight was dinner one evening at Matais, where we had eaten three years earlier. In the back of the restaurant our message on the wall from October 10, 2013 was still there!!
The long stairs to our hostel in Sarria
Where we met our Aussie friend
Dinner on our second evening - reprise of 2013
Evidence we had been there before with Lina (Colombia) and Sara (Slovenia)
Still feeling so good!
Once arriving in Sarria, I was increasingly mindful that we were in the homestretch of our pilgrimage. This came with a mix of feelings - excitement for what was waiting ahead, exhilaration of what we had accomplished thus far and a measure of disappointment that we were getting nearer to the end of this journey.
Sarria is about 120 km from Santiago and marks the starting point for many people as a distance of 100 km must be walked to receive a compostella. Because so many people start here, the way becomes busier and more noisy for a day or two. While route gets a bit crowded in places, people just joining the Camino generally are in a positive frame of mind and excited to walk "their" Camino! For those of us who have been walking for many days, it seems we are in a more reflective mood as the finish approaches.
Getting closer to the coast
Getting closer to the coast
Arriving in Santiago de Compostela
The final day walking into Santiago covered a distance of 20 km and seemed to pass quickly. We arrived at the cathedral in shortly after noon on October 17 as planned. The sun came out around the time we arrived and this encouraged us to spend time in the huge plaza in front of the cathedral basking in the satisfaction of completing our pilgrimage. After taking many photos and milling around for a while, we headed to the pilgrims' office to receive our compostella. Despite having heard rumours of long lineups, we did not experience this. The next stop was the Hotel Gelmirez, where we had stayed in 2013, to check in and settle into the comforts of a fine hotel.
We spent three days exploring and enjoying the ambience and familiarity of this historic city before flying back to Madrid. We were able to connect with many pilgrims we had met along the way, including our Aussie friend Trevor. We had great food and drink - lots of seafood, tapas and other tasty options. One highlight was visiting the Museum of Santiago and Pilgrimages, which documents the development of the pilgrimage routes during the middle ages, the culture and religious influences associated with pilgrimage, and the importance of Santiago de Compostela.
Our final evening in Santiago was quiet as we had dinner in an Italian restaurant and spent some time walking along the unusually quiet streets. Near the cathedral, we came across a group playing Celtic music, which is a type of music commonly heard in Galacia. So, came the end of my second Camino....hopefully not the last.
Nearing the cathedral in Santiago
Getting even closer to the cathedral
Showing off our beautiful legs
In front of the cathedral - Trevor, Gray, Phil and me
Cathedral tower
A wee bit of Celtic music
Special Topics
When talking about the Camino with people, there are usually a few common questions that people ask - the weather, finding your way, accommodation/lodging, food, people you meet especially pilgrims from other countries. The remainder of the post covers these topics complemented with a few fun and interesting stories have been included.
In the days leading up to our departure from Madrid on Sept. 14, Central Spain had been experiencing hot temperatures well over 30 C. When I arrived in Madrid on September 6, for example, it was 38 C. Thankfully, the temperatures dropped to a more reasonable level a day or two before we started and the heat was not a big problem even though we had to be attentive to staying well hydrated. We had beautiful weather for virtually the entire journey except for some light rain and drizzle at times during the last 5-7 days, which is expected in Galacia and getting closer to the coast.
Signs, Symbols & Waymarkers
The entire route was well signed with markers and symbols. We knew this would be the case on the Camino Frances based on our 2013 pilgrimage and, while our guidebook for the Camino Madrid said it was a well-marked route, we had not talked with anyone who had walked this route, so there was no first-hand source of information to guide us. For a route that has only about 500 pilgrims per year, we wondered how well it would be marked, but we found it well signed and the only challenges related to going off the route in a couple of places to find accommodation. Local people assisted us in our searches and, when finding our way back to the route in a few places, local people were extremely helpful. In a few instances, people went out of their way to walk with us to ensure we were on right path. In one situation, a couple of people crossed the street to help us when they observed us looking at the guidebook and obviously not being sure about direction.Here are a few photos of the signs, symbols and markers that guided us. I've also included a few other photos of fun and interesting things.
Lodging/Accommodation
We stayed in a variety of lodging - albergues (pilgrim hostels), places promoted as regular hostels with some being similar to small hotels (casa rural) or even B&Bs, and hotels. Some albergues are privately operated while others are operated by a municipality/town, monastery or other religious organization. This mix of lodging offers a wide range of options from having a room entirely to ourselves, to sharing with one other person or sharing a large room with many people.
Part of the accommodation planning included making reservations for a number of nights, which was a wise decision. Only once on the Camino Madrid was an albergue filled and thankfully we had three of the six available beds. We took break or rest days in three locations - Segovia, Leon and Sarria - and booked accommodation ahead of time for two nights in each place. Good to remember also that albergues do not allow pilgrims to stay for more than one night unless they are ill.
To give an idea of cost, we paid (per person) between €5-9/night for albergues (sometimes by donation) and an average of €22/night for private hostels. The hostel cost included breakfast most times and dinner in a couple of places. All of our accommodation was good and some of it can easily be classed as very comfortable. We also stayed in a couple of hotels (Valladolid and Santiago) with the costs being notably higher but still reasonable.
Here are a few photos of places we stayed - a variety in accommodation.
Albergue - Santa Maria la Real
Hostel - Nava de la Asuncion
Albergue - Alcazaren
Hotel - Valladolid
Albergue - Castromonte
Albergue - Santervas de Campos
Hostel (hostal in Spanish) - Segovia
Hostel - Leon
Albergue - Villar de Mazarife
Albergue - Triacastela
Food
There was a reasonable selection of food available in restaurants, especially in the larger towns and cities. In places like Leon, Segovia and Santiago, the restaurant options are wide ranging and all of our meals were good. Dinners offered by albergues typically include as much wine as you want and three or four courses (main, salad, vegetable and desert) always accompanied by fresh local bread. Dinner costs typically were between €7 and €10 per person; sometimes higher if wine was not included. "First" breakfast often was basic - coffee, croissant/bun and orange juice. This was enough to get us started and later we would stop for "second breakfast" for something much more substantial. When this happened, we would skip lunch and then find a substantial dinner. The light breakfast in some albegues was included in the cost of lodging, while "second breakfasts" generally were about €5 or €6. We did not have "second" breakfasts until on the Camino Frances.
Except for one village on the Camino Madrid, we always found a place for meals. In Castromonte, we stayed at the albergue, which was a converted school with 30 beds. Upon arrival, we had to call sometime to open the albergue and the fee was by donation. One of the main features of this albergue was a well equipped kitchen with a pantry well stocked with food. While the town had one bar for a cold beer and a very limited selection of snacks, dinner was made from items in the albergue pantry. There was a sign indicating that we should help ourselves to the food. An excellent example of the Camino giving you what you need.
On a day when we weren't sure what might be available for a mid or late morning breakfast, we would purchase the makings for lunch - bread, cheese, sliced meat and sometimes sweets. We would find a good place to stop, assemble the sandwiches and take a break. On our second day of walking, we missed out on being prepared for lunch so we dipped into a couple of things we had with us by sharing a package of beef jerky and a roll of Mentos.
Another thing to mention is that anytime we purchased beer or wine, it was inexpensive.
There are many restaurant/bar options along the Camino Frances, but more attention is required on the Camino Madrid to ensure you can find places to eat or to purchase food for a meal on the following day.
Occasionally I am asked how much it costs to walk the Camino. The answer varies from person to person and according to the type of experience you want. In our case, I estimate that we spent about €30-35 per day except possibly when we were in Segovia, Leon and Santiago, where it is a bit more expensive. This was especially the case in Santiago because we stayed in a nice hotel. The bottom line - walking the Camino can be a comparatively inexpensive when compared with other travel.
These photos are a very small sample of some of the food we experienced.
Deli for lunch supplies
Deli
Hydration at the end of the day
Second breakfast
Second breakfast
More hydration
Display counter at restaurant - we went with another option
The people you meet
On the Camino Madrid, we saw few pilgrims. We met 7 other pilgrims and encountered only three more than once. There were only two people - Hanns from Austria and Michel from near Winnipeg - who we encountered a number of times. We stayed at the same place a few nights, shared meals and beers on a few occasions, but they were solo walkers and had walked many different Camino routes. Interestingly we had seen and said hello to Hanns at the casa rural where we stayed on our second night on the Camino Madrid, but we didn't recognize each other as pilgrims. We met Michel in Santa Maria la Real Nieva and he walked with us a short distance on a few occasions. He was very interesting and a great conversationalist. He is fluent in Spanish and that came in handy when we were planning to make an unexpected side trip to Valladolid. On a few occasions we met people walking and engaged them in conversation briefly. Some were out for a day hike or weekend hike. On our third day of walking, we chatted with five people who were part of a local hiking club. They were friendly and spoke about as much English as we spoke Spanish, which made for an interesting chat. The bottom line - we learned they were part of a local hiking club and they learned we were walking to Santiago.
Our day-eight destination was the village of Villeguillo, where we quickly found the 20-bed, comfortable albergue. We registered with the hospitalero (in another part of the village) and paid €5 each for the night. After a hot shower, sorting through our clothing and gear, and putting on clean clothes, we walked into the centre of the village where food and drink could be purchased. We were joined by Hanns for cold drinks and dinner. When arriving back at the albergue after dinner, another pilgrim had arrived - a spirited and opinionated young woman from Bulgaria. Her English was excellent so we engaged her in conversation. She did not have any food, so we were able to provide her with some of what we had leftover from our lunch provisions. She was walking alone and remarked that she had very little conversation since starting to walk a few days earlier. At one point, the topic of yogurt came into a conversation with someone saying they enjoyed Greek yogurt. The young Bulgarian woman (Margrit) declared that the absolutely best yogurt was from Bulgaria. She was passionate about Bulgarian yogurt and we found the discussion humorous. Just before sunset, the hospitalero stopped in or a visit to give us some freshly picked raspberries and stayed for quite a while to talk about the crops grown in the area and the local harvesting techniques (Michel helped with translation). This was an enjoyable conversation mixing some English and Spanish. To end the day we were treated to a beautiful sunset with the promise of another hot day to follow.
Gray, Michel and hospitalero
After joining the Camino Frances in Sahagun, we often encountered a fun couple who were living in Belfast, NI. Any mention of that part of the world always interests me because of the time I've spent there. I learned that his home town is Ballymena, a place I've visited many times. She is from Italy.In the town of Trabadelo, we found a great bar/restaurant with genuine home cooking and appealing menu choices, which typically is not the case in many of the smaller towns. After settling into the albergue and getting cleaned up, we stopped by the "gastropub" to relax with a snack and cold beverage. While there, I struck up a bit of a conversation with four men from Ireland, three from Northern Ireland. Through our conversation, I shared a bit about my time at the Corrymeela peace and reconciliation in Northern Ireland and they knew about the organization. It really is a smaller world than we often realize. As the Irish would say, it was great "craic."
Gastropub - Trabedelo
Once on the Camino Frances, we encountered many people and at times it seemed a bit overwhelming. When arriving in Sahagun, we encountered more pilgrims within a few minutes than we had the previous two weeks. I found this to be a significant transition because I very much enjoyed the peace and solitude of the first 320 km. Like most things in life, however, it just took a couple of days to settle into the rhythm and culture of the busier Camino Frances. After leaving Sarria we met a wonderful mother-daughter combo (Lise and Ane from Denmark) who we walked with quite a bit for a few days.
Here a few photos of us and other pilgrims (not many others).
Phil, Gray and me - day 2
Break day - Segovia
Phil and me
Kicking up some dust
An early start
Gray, Phil, Will and me
Phil and me
Gray and me - Galacia marker
Mark (Northern Ireland) and Rafaela (Italy)
Trevor and Gray wandering the streets of Sarria
Phil, Gray and me
Lise, Ane, Gray, Phil and me
A few more stories
On both Caminos (2013 & 2016), we found the people of Spain to be very hospitable and we had several experiences of people going out of their way to be helpful. Probably the best way to share much of the Camino experience is through a few stories from situations we encountered and people met along the way. Every day, it seemed there was at least one memorable story. With that in mind, here are a few.
Help in finding our way: Shortly after departing the hostel in Colmenar Viejo on the second morning of walking (Sept. 15), we were checking the notes and basic map in the guidebook and two woman across the street noticed us and came over to help ensure we headed in the right direction back to the Camino route. They could have just left us to our own route finding - instead they showed the kind of hospitality we were shown repeatedly over 31 days of walking.
The sign we were looking for....
Finding a place to stay: When reaching our destination of Manzanares el Real on September 15, we followed the guidebook advice for finding the albergue. Before going to the albergue, pilgrims are instructed to call at the vicar's house (Casa del Cura) in the main plaza in town to enquire about getting a key to the albergue (called Ermita de Pena Sacra) located about 2 km outside the village. The guidebook also indicated that the albergue often is not open on weekends, but we were hopeful because it was not a weekend. We rang the buzzer on vicar's house a few times without any response, so walked around the area a bit to discover that the hotel (also mentioned in the guidebook) was out of business and the tourist information stand was closed for the day. There seemed to be only one accommodation option left to consider - a private hostel outside of town that was mentioned in our guidebook so that was our next destination. With some doubt about direction, I sensed we should head in certain way and my senses were rewarded when we came to the Mirador La Maliciosa (a casa rural), where we were able to get a very comfortable room plus dinner, breakfast and beer/wine for the three of us for €60, including tax and tip. From what I could ascertain, the casa rural had replaced the hostel mentioned in the guidebook. It was a family-run business and once again we were shown wonderful hospitality. At the time, little did we know that the one other guest was another pilgrim (Hanns), who we would get to know later in our journey. Looking across the road from our lodging, we could see the "closed" albergue on top of a substantial hill, which would have meant a substantial climb if we had gotten the key from the vicar. This was an example of the Camino giving us what we needed. 
Our hosts at the casa rural in Manzanares el Real
Gray and Phil taking a break
Parade getting ready to start
Planning an unexpected diversion:
When we arrived in the village of Alcazaren, we were at about the mid-point of the Camino Madrid. During the day, one of my walking mates became increasingly concerned about a dental problem that needed attention. After settling into the modern albergue in Alcazaren and having some lunch, efforts were underway to locate a dental office in the city of Valladolid and to sort out transportation to get there. Making these arrangements was greatly aided by Michel as he is fluent in Spanish and the owner of our lunch/dinner bar was also helpful. This meant we caught an early morning bus that took us to Valladolid, where we caught a taxi to the dental office. The dental work went smoothly and by late morning we were sitting in a great little bakery/cafe where the coffee and eats were good. After having our appetites satisfied, we went on a search for a taxi to take us to our lodging (a nice hotel). When obviously looking a bit disoriented, a local woman came up to us and asked us if we were looking for a taxi and directed us to a taxi stand just a couple of minutes from where we were. She could easily have ignored us, but showed a spirit of hospitality and helpfulness that was much appreciated.
Just a cow bell: Back on the Camino after the diversion to Valladolid, we started walking in a cool and sunny early morning from the village of Wamba (pronounced Bamba). After about 7 km we arrived in Penaflor de Hornija, where we stop for café con leche and snack at a local bar on the main plaza. I went to the bar to order our coffee/snacks and, after paying, I left a tip. After picking up the tip, the bartender went over and rang a cowbell hanging from the ceiling. He received an applause from the crowd - a very humorous moment. The bar had an upbeat atmosphere and we really enjoyed the stop. Before leaving, we went over to the bar to shake hands with the bartender and had a few more laughs. He wished us Buen Camino as we headed out the door. When we stepped outside, we saw an old car just like Inspector Clousteau's car in the Pink Panther movies.
Bar - Penaflor de Hornija
The infamous cowbell
Inspector Clousteau's car
Our choice of bed:
When arriving in Castromonte, we easily found the albergue near the entrance to the village. The instructions were to call the mayor to have the albergue opened. He arrived quickly and warmly welcomed us as he unlocked the door and also inviting us to avail ourselves of their food supplies because very little is available in the village. It was a great albergue - spacious sleeping area, 20 beds, clean, kitchen, laundry sink, clothesline and just a short walk to the only place to get a beverage and limited food. All of the food and the lodging cost was by donation! Not much to see or do there and the village was quiet except at the bar, where we could get a beer/soft drink and some snack foods. One of my mates cooked a good dinner meal with the available provisions at the albergue and it tasted especially good.
Gray and I with a few of the women from the church
Hospitaleros extraordinaire:
After a long (31 km) walk on a hot day with dusty walking conditions, we arrived in the town of Villalon de Campos and stayed at the municipal albergue. The best aspect of this albergue was the hospitality of the hospitaleros - Judith and Florentino. They have several years of hosting pilgrims as well as a great deal of Camino walking experience from past years. We had access to the kitchen and ate dinner and breakfast there. She is originally from Scotland and he is from Portugal. Judith entertained us with many stories. During the evening, our hosts roasted fresh local peppers with sea salt sprinkled on top - delicious. With a population of about 2,000, the town was larger than many places we stopped so we spent some time exploring. After a refreshing shower, it was good to get out for a walk and stretch muscles after such a long day. When departing the next morning, we felt like we had two new friends.
Gray and Phil with our hosts Judith and Florentino
A different kind of vino tinto: After the "harvest" parade in Leon we wondered the city centre for a while looking for a place for late lunch and finally stopped at a great pizza place where we had probably the best service experienced thus far and wonderful staff. I think it is fair to say that the Spanish have a relaxed approach to service so patience is required - meals at restaurants are times to visit and socialize with family and friends so being in a rush for food doesn't fit. However, this time we were surprised. Both the salad and pizza were excellent. After dessert, the other guys ordered a coffee and I asked for a vino tinto. A few minutes later a server showed up with an Expresso! I don't drink caffeine after noon, so the confusion was quickly sorted out. Our server came to explain that her husband is from Colombia and that he interpreted tinto to be an Expresso which it is in his homeland! 
Our server and me - Leon restaurant
Another humorous incident: In the small farming village of Calzadilla de la Hemanillos, we stopped at the same private casa rural (guest house) as in 2013 because of a positive experience previously. We arrived early so had most of the afternoon to kick back and relax. One of the guys, checked to ensure the three of us were signed up for dinner. We were sitting on the patio and a couple of minutes later a server showed up at our table with three beers. Something definitely was lost in translation: tres personas for dinner was interpreted as tres cervezas!! I completely expect any confusion was on our part due our limited Spanish. When I went to pay for soft drinks and other beverages, the young woman did not charge for the beer as she took responsibility for any confusion. On top of that, we had a very fine dinner and also learned that she spoke quite a bit of English!
Site of the three free beer incident
A few final thoughts
Walking the Camino is a special experience and being able to do so twice makes it even more special. While some things were similar between the two pilgrimages, both were unique. I am grateful for these opportunities as I know this is not possible for everyone. There are parallels with the pilgrimage of day-to-day life, but Camino walking sharpened my senses in many ways - most especially to be in the moment or feeling the now of each day or the many parts of a day. A Camino walk similar to how we did them brings life down to important basics - the ability to walk, having shelter at the end of each day, food, water, companionship, times for community and solitude, beautiful scenery, being exposed to a diversity of people, experiencing the nuances of a different culture, receiving incredible hospitality, the kindness of strangers, and surprises.
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