Haida Gwaii - May 2018

A dream becomes reality

Haida Gwaii is the ancestral home of the Haida Nation and for many years I have wanted to visit this part of British Columbia about which I had heard so much. So, one evening in January, I felt it was time to act and then made reservations for a two-day boat trip, flight and a few other aspects of the trip. Moresby Explorers operates boat trips into Gwaii Haanas and I booked a spot on one of their 2-day trips in May. They also have a B&B in Sandspit just a short walk from their office and I booked there for a few nights. Breakfasts were great and the service was top notch.

I flew into Sandspit and spent a couple of nights there before heading out on a 2-day boat trip to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve. Even the flight from Vancouver to Sandspit was a highlight as I sat beside and had a a fun conversation with Rosanna Deerchild, host of CBC Radio’s “Unreserved.”

Sandspit does not have much to see, but it is the jumping off point for much of the exploring in Gwaii Haanas. The best restaurant is Dick's Wok Inn, where I ate a few evenings.

View from the front of the B&B 

A bit about Haida Gwaii
Haida Gwaii is located off the north coast of B.C. and is comprised of numerous islands of widely varying size. The two largest islands are Moresby and Graham. The population is around 5,000, maybe a bit less. With about 900 people, Queen Charlotte City is the largest community and it is located on Graham Island. Other notable places on Graham Island are Skidegate, Tlell, Port Clements, Masset and Old Masset. Sandspit is the largest centre on Moresby Island and it is the airport where Air Canada operates along with charter flights by Helijet and others. Pacific Coastal Airlines has regular service to/from Masset. Moresby Explorers operates boat trips into Gwaii Haanas and I booked a spot on one of their 2-day trips in May.

Boat trip to Gwaii Haanas

Moresby Island is the common jumping off point for people wanting to explore Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Conservation Area Reserve, and the Haida Heritage Site. This huge reserve covers Gwaii Haanas is co-managed by the Council of Haida Nation and the Canadian government. The Haida have lived within this territory for at least 14,000 years. The cooperative management evolved from a standoff between the Haida and the logging industry on Lyell Island, which is now protected in Gwaii Haanas. Under protection is an archipelago of 138 islands covering about 5,000 square kilometres.

After about an hour drive from Sandspit, we arrived at Moresby Camp - an abandoned logging camp - which was the starting point for the boat trip. Moresby Explorers has facilities there to store some of their boats, kayaks and gear. The information provided when signing up for the trip included advice to dress warmly because we would be traveling in an open-air Zodiac in an area where the weather is variable. The temperature during the boat trip was about 10C, so this was good advice. At Moresby camp, we were outfitted with raingear, gum boots and life jackets. Along with the three layers I was already wearing, I looked like the Michelin man by the time I had all the Moresby gear on. Along with the other eight people, we looked like team of Michelin people.

The boat trip was operated by Moresby Explorers (highly recommended) and we explored parts of the northern half of Gwaii Haanas as well as the Louise Island area. We were transported in a Zodiac boat that had been especially retrofitted for trips like this. Our trip was guided by two people (one of the owners and a new guide learning the ropes) and were provided with many opportunities to learn about the history, culture and natural environment of Haida Gwaii. We made stops along the way, saw lots of wildlife (small island covered with Stellar seals, more Bald Eagles than I've ever seen, many sea birds, a couple of Black Bears and a Humpback whale. We stayed one night on Morseby's floating house, which was a great experience with comfort and fantastic dinner and breakfast.

At the floating camp

The first stop was at Aero Camp, an abandoned logging camp where much of the area is now overgrown with trees. However, there are still piers in the water for what would have been a dock used in their log sorting operation and other decaying equipment that would have been part of the logging operation (See photos). The next stop was McGee Point, where we had lunch on the beach. As you can see in the photo, we had a beautiful view at lunch.

Aero Camp 

Aero Camp 

View at McGee Point

Our last stop (at the end of day two) was at Mather Creek, where there is an old cemetery of pre-1900 burials. Apparently, this was the cemetery for the small village of Clue. After this era, residents apparently relocated to the Skidegate (also on Haida Gwaii).

In between the first and last stops, we visited two ancient Haida village sites T'aanuu Llnagay (Tanu) and K'uuna Llnagaay (Skedans). At one time, there were between 25-40 longhouses in Tanu, but little is left standing today. However, the house depressions and fallen, moss-covered house posts still give a sense of the layout. At one point, Skedans had up to 30 longhouses. At different sites in Gwaai Haanas, a program called Haida Gwaii Watchmen ensures protection of the ancient villages, welcome visitors and share oral history and stories. The Watchmen honour all those watching over Gwaii Haanas past and present. We met Watchmen at Skedans and Tanu. These two stops were the most memorable and impactful for me. The white markers in some photos are bleached clam shells and mark the limits beyond which visitors are not allowed to explore. The first eight photos were taken at Skedans and the last one is the home of the Watchmen at this location.

Beautifully carved poles are a key aspect of Haida culture and there are four types - memorial, mortuary, inside house poles and house frontal poles. With various representations of human, animal and supernatural figures carved into poles, each tells a story. Both Tanu and Skedans had many poles at one time and there is still plenty of evidence of poles especially at Skedans, with some still standing. Red cedar was used for the poles, structural timbers, walls, etc. As the houses decayed over many years, spruce trees have growth unabated in areas where cedar (red and yellow) were the predominant tree species historically. The next photos were taken at Tanu. 

Graham Island
The morning after returning to the Moresby B&B in Sandspit, I started on the second half of my trip to Haida Gwaii exploring Graham Island by car and foot. After taking the ferry from Sandspit to Skidegate, I followed the signs into the booming metropolis of Queen Charlotte City with a population of about 900. It has a very good provincial tourism information centre, so I spent some time there. Next, I walked into the middle of town and picked up a coffee at the "Queen B" - if I lived in the area, I would be a regular customer!

From Queen Charlotte City, I worked my way north with a stop in Tlell to admire a carved pole and then drove on to Port Clement following signs to the Golden Spruce Trail. A book of the same title tells the story of a large Sitka Spruce with luminous glowing needles. Along the trail, there were several plagues with information about Haida culture Author John Valliant tells the story of how the golden spruce was an integral part of the Haida history and mythology. The tree was in an area where the Weyerhaeuser forestry company held a licence for logging. The tree survived for many years in a set-aside area surrounded by a harvested landscape. However, the tree was cut down by Grant Hadwin, who worked as a scout for timber companies. Over time, however, he faced the reality that the better he became at his job, the more the world he loved was being destroyed by industrial forestry. On the night of January 20, 1997, Hadwin swam across the Yakoun River with a chainsaw; alone, in darkness, he used the chainsaw to cut into the golden spruce, which was more than two metres in diameter. While the tree was not felled, it was left unstable and the first wind blew it over a few days later. This is only part of the story, so you may want to read the book. The walk on the trail was good, but not unlike other trails in B.C. that go through old growth forests such as Cathedral Grove on Vancouver Island.

Tlell 

The next stop was in the village of Masset at my lodging for one night - the Copper Beach House Inn. An ecelectic place with plenty of character most likely reflecting the owner, Susan Musgrave the author. It was comfortable and I enjoyed my stay. I was in the smallest room, called the Retreat, which over looked the harbour and its many fishing boats. The information package said that Margaret Atwood sat at the desk in the same room while posting many things on Twitter, but I have no way of verifying that. I can recommend staying at the Copper Beach House Inn and also recommend making reservations well ahead of time.

Masset serves as the gateway to Naikoon Provincial Park and is also known world wide for fishing due to its access to productive waters for salmon and Halibut. There is a wildlife sanctuary nearby with a large wetland set aside as a refuge for migrating and resident birds. The village has the most westerly golf course in Canada and an array of amenities including a couple of good coffee shops.

Just three km away is Old Masset, the home to several talented Haida artists who have carving sheds, in-home studios or additions to their homes where they make and sell their creations. The village of about 550 people is known for having several carved poles.

Carving shed 

Not fancy, but good food 

After a good sleep and breakfast at the Copper Beach House Inn, I drove to what is called the Tow Hill Road community adjacent to Naikoon Provincial Park. I walked to the top of Tow Hill (many steps, but only about 125 metres in elevation) and was treated to a spectacular coastal view. On the way back to Masset, I stopped at Agate Beach campground for a short walk and then at the Moon Over Naikoon Bakery Bus, which is famous for its fresh coffee and cinnamon buns. Very funky! The bakery-eatery in a converted and colourfully painted school bus is another highly-rated stop. The cinnamon buns are worth it.

Near Tow Hill 

View from part way up Tow Hill 

Nearing the top of Tow Hill 

View from top of Tow Hill

Agate Beach

Then, I headed south to Skidegate, where I stopped to see the Haida Gwaii Museum. The museum offers an interesting look into Haida Gwaii culture from perspectives that include Haida knowledge, scientific information, the natural environment, oral history, and art blended together. The museum was opened in 1976 and since then has gone through much development. The layout flows chronologically from pre-contact, to post-contact, and contemporary. The galleries have an impressive collection that portrays Haida culture and art. Photos were not allowed in the galleries.

Haida Gwaii Museum 

In lobby of museum

Before arriving at the museum, I made a few stops to enjoy the view and even went down to the beach to see Balance Rock. It's a van-sized boulder that is believed to have been deposited during the last great glacial retreat.

I hope to get back to Haida Gwaii some day and would like to either fly into Masset or possibly drive from home and take the ferry from Prince Rupert to Skidegate. Either way, I would like to spend more time on Graham Island.