A short preface
Another wonderful feature of my Camino experiences has been the hospitality of the Spanish people even in places and situations where I am sure they must get tired of pilgrims who seemingly take over at times. From three Caminos, we have found that local people repeatedly go out of their way to point us in the right direction and, at times, even walking with us for a while to ensure we find the way correctly or maybe to accommodate a request made in broken Spanish.
A bit of background on Camino 2019
After the Camino walks in fall of 2013 and 2016, my mind often turned to the possibility of third walk. Early in 2019, discussions with my previous Camino walking companions prompted exploration of options for a walk later in the year (September-October). Two main considerations guided the research: 1) wanting to finish our walk in front of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela; and 2) walking a shorter route due to some time constraints. Through various discussions we decided that it would also be interesting to walk a completely different route than those of 2013 and 2016.
We agreed that a good option would be to walk a section of the Via de la Plata and then connect with the Camino Sanabres after a few days to complete the walk into Santiago.
While there were three of us on the 2013 and 2016 walks, last fall we started with two more people. Our group of five departed Salamanca on the Via de la Plata and we walked together part way into day six before splitting into two groups (as planned). Two people (Gray and Mat) continued to walk north on the Via de la Plata to join the Camino Frances at Astorga, while three of us (Phil, Lloyd and I) turned west on the Camino Sanabres to follow it all the way to Santiago. Unfortunately, an injury led to Mat having to abandon his walk, but Gray was able to join the three of us in the city of Ourense for our break day and the last six days of walking.
Our entry into Spain was the capital city of Madrid. I was the first to arrive (early morning on Sept. 16), which gave me the opportunity to take care of a few details related to our walk - securing a SIM card and air time for local calling, purchasing train tickets for traveling to Salamanca and obtaining a pilgrim’s credential (Credencial del Peregrino) at the Church of Santiago. A credential serves like a pass to gain access to a bed at pilgrim hostels (albergues), which are typically operated by municipalities and religious organizations. There also are private albergues, but not all require a credential to secure a bed. Nevertheless, they want to see your credential as well as the passport from your home country (required by the Spanish government).
Credentials vary notably in design and I prefer those from different organizations (usually churches) in Spain even though a Canadian version is available from the Canadian Company of Pilgrims. All credentials have spaces for stamps at various establishments (albergues, bars, restaurants and even some markets) along the way as verification of places stopped on the journey. If there is sufficient evidence (two stamps per day) that you have walked at least 100 km a Compostela (certification of completion) can be obtained at the Pilgrim Office in Santiago.
After all of us had arrived in Madrid, we had one evening/overnight in the Spanish capital before taking the train to Salamanca around midday on September 18. We spent two nights and one day in Salamanca prior to starting to walk on September 20.
The city is known for its ornate sandstone architecture, cathedral and other historic buildings. As in most Spanish cities, the Plaza Mayor comes alive at night. The plaza in Salamanca is considered as one Spain's grandest! I certainly agree with that assessment.
We walked through farming areas, small towns and villages much of the time, which always appeals to me. In places we walked through forested areas on trails or dirt farm roads. As we neared cities such as Zamora, Ourense and Santiago we walked on sidewalks and/or cobblestone streets. The footing for virtually all the route was good and thankfully we didn't have to contend with mud or other conditions that would have significantly slowed our walking.
For the first 10 days of walking, the terrain was relatively flat with daily elevation gains around 200 metres, typically spread over several km. At the end of these days we would descend about the same amount as we arrived at our destination. For most of the last 11 days, however, the route involved substantial elevation ascent and descent, which is characteristic of Galicia. On day 11, for example, we ascended 740 metres (a bit over 2,400 feet), but then descended even more (791 metres or 2,600 feet). Along with a distance of 28 km, day 11 was one of the most demanding. On day 18, following our break in Ourense, we had another significant ascent of 682 metres (2,200 feet) with a descent at the end of the day of 326 metres (about 1,100 feet). While days with notable ascent obviously are the most physically demanding, substantial descent can also be challenging on the knees. Our entire route had a cumulative ascent of 8,804 metres (28,885 feet) and 9,219 metres of descent (30,246 feet) with the difference due to Salamanca being at a higher elevation than Santiago. A few examples of the walking conditions are shown in these photos.
Albergues - these are most common type of lodging for pilgrims; often referred to as pilgrim hostels; some are operated by municipalities or church affiliated organizations, while others are private; it is possible to make a reservation at many private albergues, but not with the other albergues; these facilities range widely in what is offered and in comfort; many are in older buildings that have been renovated specifically to accommodate pilgrims - think dormitory style of lodging; in many places the facilities are modern; some offer dinner at an extra cost of about €8-10 on top of the lodging cost of €5-10; dinner typically includes three courses and bottomless local wine - excellent value and the quality is good. We spent 9 nights in albergues.
Hostels - a step up from albergues; private room typically for 1-4 people; often have a bar/restaurant in the same facility for dinner and a light breakfast service; prices are at least double the albergue cost; some hostels provide a very good level of comfort. Many hostels can be booked through a service such as Booking.com. We spent 7 nights in hostels.
Hotels - like elsewhere, the cost and quality vary widely; as with hostels, these obviously provide a higher level of privacy and comfort than albergues. We stayed in hotels in Zamora and Ourense.
B&B and Casa Rural - while these types of lodging are different categories in the tourism sector of Spain, I haven't really seen notable differences between them after having stayed in a number of both types on three Caminos. Often breakfast is offered in these establishments and sometimes dinner. All seem to provide more comfort and personalized service than albergues, hostels and even some hotels. We stayed in these on four nights.
Pension - similar to a Casa Rural or B&B, but lodging with this designation does not appear to be widespread in Spain, at least from my experience. Spent one night in a pension.
Here are my favourite lodging facilities and where I would stay again:
Food and drink
Except in the smallest towns and villages, there always were a few dining options and the most common were bars with a food service. In contrast to albergues on the Camino Frances, dinner was not quite as widely available at the albergues. That being said, we had many options along the way, particularly in the larger towns and cities. While I did not track our meal costs, restaurant/bar food is relatively inexpensive in Spain even in cities. With a few exceptions, finding a place for a substantial breakfast was much more challenging on this walk than on the Camino Frances. Nevertheless, we usually were able to find places to have a cafe con leche with toast, croissant or similar. The limited options for breakfast is understandable because the number of pilgrims walking our route is a small fraction of those on the Camino Frances. On a couple of days, we did not plan well for lunch so appreciated dinner even more on those days. What worked best for lunch was purchasing fresh local bread (sometimes at a bakery), cold cuts, tomatoes and cheese to make into sandwiches; add some mustard and the result was tasty.
In places like Salamanca, Zamora, Pueba de Sanabria, Ourense and Santiago, there are many dining options to accommodate a full range of tastes and preferences for any meal.
On the first part of the walk, we saw many round cement posts used to mark the route with writing in Spanish and Arabic. These large markers certainly are easy to spot at intersections and not the style one would see on the Camino Frances. The photos below show a variety of signs, markers and symbols that assisted us.
In addition, there was a mix of other signs and symbols providing information about various things related to the Camino. In a few places, there was a map of an area with the route marked. Symbols in the shape of a scallop shell made from various materials and small statues or painted images of St. James were common.
We used the 2019 edition of the "Walking Guide to the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabres" written by Gerald Kelly, the app from Wise Pilgrim for the same routes and the "Windy Maps" app which can be used for many routes. The two apps were downloaded to my iPhone and I carried a paper copy of the Kelly walking guide. I also purchased the paper guide from Wise Pilgrim "The Via de la Plata & Camino Sanabres" but only used it for planning. In combination these resources worked well and, while there was some overlap, each provided unique benefits, including informtion about lodging options and locations. For quite a bit of lodging, I used Booking.com, which is my "go-to" resource for travel lodging in Europe.
Day 1 (Sept. 20): Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel
After walking along sidewalks to make our way out of Salamanca, it was good to get into the wide-open countryside. On the first day, we walked just over 16 km through flat terrain and farming areas before stopping for the night in the village of Calzada de Valdunciel at the private pilgrim hostel (albergue) Casa del Molinero. The albergue was constructed principally of stone and large wood beams. It was on the route and easy to find, comfortable and the host (Oscar) was very helpful. The village has some services such as a market, restaurant, bars and a few other services.
For a modest additional cost, we had dinner in the main house with the owners providing hospitality comprised of home cooking, fine local table wine and conversation. They were wonderful hosts and we got to share the evening with a couple from Mexico and two young pilgrims from France.
Day 3 (Sept. 22): El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino to Villaneuva de Campean
The walk was comparatively short at 14 km with us stopping in the village of Villanueva de Campean to overnight in the municipal albergue. It was a beautiful day with the temperature around 18-20 C, plenty of blue sky with enough cloud cover to provide protection from the sun. The walk again took us through large agricultural fields of fodder corn, sunflowers and grapes. The red soil and rolling hills reminded me of Prince Edward Island on Canada's east coast. The area is known for its good quality wine, which can be said about many parts of Spain. The albergue was a common style - dormitory bedrooms (2), kitchen, two showers and laundry. It was a short walk into the centre of the village. In addition to the five people in our group, there were four other pilgrims at the albegue - a couple from the Netherlands, a young French man and another man who called himself "Herman the German."
After getting settled at the albergue, we strolled into the village centre where there was quite a bit of activity. There were two bars with food services so we were easily able to secure a cold beverage and tapas. We selected the Café Bar Hernandez which was alive with local people, several of whom were engaged in animated card games. I expect this is what one would experience most weekend afternoons in this village and others across the country. Fun to watch!
As we entered the village from the south, we walked past the once majestic Convento Franciscano de Nuestra Senora del Soto. While it is now a declared ruin, the site still contains some of its original charm and one can see that it was impressive in its prime. Later in the afternoon, I spent some time exploring there and around the village.
For dinner, we went to the "other" bar across from where we had been earlier. The standard 3-course meal was not fancy, but it was tasty, inexpensive and easily met our needs.
Day 4 (Sept. 23): Villanueva de Campean to Zamora
We were walking by 8:00 am and treated to a beautiful sunrise. While we started the day without breakfast or coffee, it was a great start to another nice weather day. The 18 km walk took us through more farming areas until we approached Zamora, which is a city of 66,000 and all that goes with a city of this size.
We finished the day with a very fine dinner at an Italian restaurant followed by a stop at a large convenience store to purchase provisions for the next day's lunch.
Day 5 (Sept. 24): Zamora to Montamarta
After about 4.5 km, our band of five split into groups of two and three as we headed in different routes with the final direction for all of us being Santiago. Two people (Gray and Mat) headed north on the Via de la Plata to join the Camino Frances in the city of Astorga. Three of us (Phil, Lloyd and I) headed west to join the Camino Sanabres at the next overnight destination of Tabara.
Following the recommendation of the Kelly guide, we took an alternative route to Tábara. Most of this walking was on or on the shoulder of a busy two-lane highway - noisy and a bit dangerous at times; thankfully we safely arrived at our destination. We stayed at a private albergue (Hotel El Roble) and were joined by one other pilgrim in a fairly large dormitory style room - a young German man we had previously met. He was walking the full length of the La Plata (1,000 km), which meant he had been walking for many days before we met him.
Tábara is larger than other towns/villages up to this point and with that comes more services than the other places we stopped since leaving Salamanca (Zamora being the exception).
Day 7 (Sept. 26): Tabara to Santa Marta de Tera
After a light breakfast (toast and cafe con leche) at the Hotel El Roble, we started walking just before 8:00 am and arrived in Santa Marta de Tera after 23 km. The walking conditions again were good and the route took us through a few towns and villages, stopping in Villaneuva de las Peras for a coffee while sitting in the sun. We then walked up a hill and had lunch as we sat on benches outside a small church. Very pleasant stop!
We arrived at our destination of Santa Marta de Tera in the mid-afternoon and easily found the municipal albergue. It is a modernized old building with 13 beds in two rooms. It had more amenities than some places such as large showers with plenty of hot water, a small kitchen/dining area for pilgrim use and ample clothes lines for hanging clothes to dry. Our room had bunk beds for six people, but we were the only three in the room. There were two other people (cyclists) in the other bedroom.
After selecting beds, we went to the church to pay for our lodging and were given a guided tour of the church. The church has a substantial number of Camino themed items including a small statue of St. James purportedly the oldest statue of St. James in existence. A bit later, we found the tienda (small grocery store) with the assistance of a local man. We then found a pub for a cold beer and dinner. Basic but met our needs.
Day 8 (Sept. 27): Santa Marta de Tera to Rionegro del Puente
We continued with our reasonably early walking starts and were on our way before 8:00 am. When leaving town, we got off track a wee bit, but were able to correct the error without backtracking. It was a cool and pleasant morning for walking as we set out on the 28 km journey to Rionegro del Puente.
Probably the big challenge on day 8 was not having breakfast or coffee until well into the day. When starting, the hope was to stop at La Trucha bar/restaurant in the village of Olleros de Tera for breakfast, but to our disappointment it was not open. So we dipped into limited provisions for something that didn't quite resemble a normal breakfast except for an orange we shared. As we were eating the cobbled together breakfast, an older local man walked past and we asked if he knew when La Trucha would be open and his answer was classic - "whenever he wants to!"
A bit later we stopped at an albergue in the Villar de Farfon, where our guidebook indicated we might be able to purchase some basic foods. We ended up having a coffee and cookies by donation. The albergue is run by a couple from South Africa who had walked a Camino and then felt a “spiritual call” to move to Spain and set up an albergue. Interesting stop, but I must say that after listening to the man's extremely conservative political, social and religious views for a while it was a bit too much for me. You never know what a day will give you on a Camino! Kudos to Lloyd for hanging in there as Phil and I walked on.
A while after arriving and settling into the municipal albergue in Rionegro, the hospitelero (host) arrived to welcome us and take payment for the lodging. We asked her about good places for dinner and she quickly recommended Me Gusta Comer directly across the street. So, our plan was to have dinner there. In the meantime, we found a bar to have a cold beverage and snack while relaxing, checking email, etc. The only other pilgrim at the albergue was the young German man we had seen a few times.
When we arrived for dinner at Me Gusta Comer, we learned that the woman who welcomed us at the albergue was also the host/owner of the restaurant and that her husband was the chef. We were the only diners and the chef prepared one of the best dinners of all my three Camino walks. The meal, including wine and a post-dinner liquor, cost about €15 each. The next time we had good Wifi reception, I checked to see if it is rated on Trip Advisor. It is and justifiably receives a very good rating. This was another example of a pleasant Camino surprise that included wonderful hospitality, great food and a tasty digestive.
We walked for about 2.5 hours before stopping for breakfast. Around the same time we stopped at a bakery and supermercado to purchase lunch supplies for a couple of days. Most of the day's walk was through rural countryside with good conditions (farm roads and trails). While there was a bit of road walking, traffic was not a problem. The first part of the walk was reasonably flat and, while there were more hills later in the day, we had not yet come to the big hills.
A highlight of the day was stopping to assemble and eat lunch at the entrance in a small village as we sat on a stone wall in light shade - perfect setting. Then, part way through the afternoon we saw a large stag (deer) and just a couple of minutes later we saw several more deer across a field. It’s the first time I’ve seen a wild animal of such a large size on the three Caminos. Most often, the wild critters have been rabbits or overly zealous pilgrims.
In Asturianos, we stayed in the municipal albergue, which is attached to a sports facility. It was off route a bit and, while it was very basic lodging, it met our needs for the night. There were a couple of places for dinner in the village centre close to the route, but we decided to take advantage of the bar/restaurant restaurant attached to the albergue/sports complex. It was not fancy dining, but met our needs for snacks, dinner and beverages. The service was friendly.
We arrived in the mid-afternoon so had the opportunity to hand wash a few things and hang them on outdoor clotheslines to dry in the sun. The only other person at the albergue again was the young man from Germany who we were geting to know. He would sometimes join us for a chat and other times he would wander off to explore on his own. His English was very good and we always enjoyed our conversations with him.
At one point as we were relaxing with a snack and cold beer, the woman in charge of the restaurant started rearranging some of the tables and putting white tablecloths on them. It seemed that more people would be coming for the evening. When we came back for dinner, several local folks arrived soon after and we learned the big attraction was a football (soccer) game on the large screen TV. It was a fun time - lots of animated conversations and energy similar to what we had seen in other places. It was a Saturday evening so maybe the parallel in Canada would be "Hockey Night in Canada."
Another interesting thing about this stop was the shooting range adjacent to the sports facility. Several people showed up in the late afternoon for target practice with gunshots being heard until the sun started to set.
Walking note: After an average of just over 17 km per day for the first five days, our daily average distance increased significantly over days 6-9 (Sept. 25-28) to 27 km.
Day 10 (Sept. 29): Asturianos to Puebla de Sanabria
The day 10 destination was Puebla de Sanabria, about a 15 km journey. It was another cool morning, but warmed throughout the day and most of the time we walked in sun. Route finding was straightforward and after a few km we stopped in a small village (Palacios de Sanabria) for a light breakfast. We quickly observed that the target practice of the previous evening may well have related to it being hunting season. We had a choice of two places for breakfast (bars/restaurants) - sitting outside with a group of wild boar hunters in their camouflage clothing or going across the street to a quieter place with a mix of local people not wearing camo clothing along with three Garda Civil officers. We chose the latter. The café con leche and toast hit the spot.
Again most of our walk was on pleasant forest trails with a bit on gravel and some paved roads. It was an easy day so we arrived in Puebla de Sanabria in the early afternoon. With a population of about 2,000, this was the largest town we walked through or stayed in since Zamora. Once in Puebla de Sanabria, the last section of the walk was up a steep hill to our lodging at Hostal Carlos V. This was one of the best places we stayed in terms of the comfort and quality of accommodation. The town is popular for a variety of local tourism activities and an appealing feature is a fortress at the top of a significant hill. Being a larger town, there was a wide array of services - shops, bars and restaurants.
For the following morning, the dining room opened early to accommodate our request for breakfast at 7:30 am, which was a great way to start the day.
Day 11 (Sept. 30): Puebla de Sanabria to Lubian
Day 12 (Oct. 1): Lubian to A Gudina
For most of the day, we walked on forest trails and it was beautiful. After one of our early ascent sections, we entered into Galicia! This is a significant point on many Camino routes as it marks being in the final major geographical area before arrival in Santiago. Despite reaching this point, we still had 11 more days of walking. In Galicia, the topography has many hills meaning there is substantial up-and-down walking throughout. Another striking feature in much of Galicia is that, while many hills have limited tree cover due to forestry activity and fires, there still is plenty of greenery with low growing bushes providing widespread ground cover. This is similar to parts of Scotland and Ireland.
It was after entering Galicia that we stopped to spend some time in personal reflection by placing small stones in memory and/or prayer for family members, friends or another reason. Stones of various sizes, shapes and characteristics are used as symbols for reflection in many cultures and traditions. Each of us brought small stones from home with specific people in mind and we thoughtfully placed each stone along with a time of prayer and reflection.
After the standard light breakfast at the hostel we started walking in a temperature of 7 C. It was cloudy in the morning, but the sunshine gradually increased during the day. From the outset, we faced a steady ascent, offsetting the elevation descent at the end of the previous day. It was a 20 km walk to our destination of Campobecerros with ascent being just over 500 metres. Most of the walking was on paved roads, but not busy with traffic. The town is small with a population of about 200. We stayed at Albergue de Rosario - very basic. We walked into the small village and found a place to eat. The most interesting thing about this stop was a man staying at the albergue who had each piece of his clothing in individual plastic bags and he spent over an hour opening each bag and carefully folding his clothing, only to repeat this number of times. Always interesting!
Day 14 (Oct. 3): Campobecerros to Laza
It was a 15 km walk to our next destination - Laza. The ascent was about 425 metres to start the day, but the relatively short distance meant that it was not a demanding day. We reached an elevation of about 900 metres and then descended by 475 metres as we got close to Laza. At about 1,400 people, Laza is one of the larger towns where we stopped. Much of the walking was on paved road, but there were few cars so we didn’t have to be constantly alert. As we descended into town, we walked through forests of pine and oak, chestnut and other tree species. Plenty of beautiful scenery with sunny weather - very enjoyable! Having an easier day was good because among us there were a few foot blisters; not big problems and generally we were in good health.
About 6 km from Laza, we stopped for a few minutes at a self-serve roadside table set up specifically to support pilgrims - coffee, tea and cookies. No charge, but there was a donation box. A bit later we stopped for a break and snack in what was a small park set up for local use - picnic tables, two bbqs and more. With no one else was around, it was quiet and a pleasant place to take a break.
Day 15 (Oct. 4): Laza to Vilar do Barrio
We started another day with a light breakfast, which we definitely needed before setting out on the 19 km walk to Vilar do Barrio. After about 6.5 km of generally flat walking, we started a steep 400 metre climb to the town of Albergueria. While we had longer ascents, this one likely was the steepest over a short distance. It was most interesting to stop in Albergueria for lunch at the unique El Rincon del Peregrino. While I had read about El Rincon during the planning, it was more than I expected. The walls and ceiling are covered with scallop shells (an iconic Camino symbol), each having the name of at least one pilgrim on it. There are thousands of shells (see photo below). On top of that, the lunch was good!
It was overcast and quite warm when we started walking and, while we ended the day in sun, a light cloud cover helped keep us reasonably cool. Much of the walk was through beautiful forest and again we were treated to fantastic views.
Lodging in Vilar do Barrio was in a fairly large Xunta albergue (run by the Galician regional government). It is a modern facility with 24 beds - bunkbeds, laundry and a few other amenities. At 5:30 pm, we were the only people there, but four cyclists arrived a bit later! The town of 1,400 was located on a fairly busy two-lane highway and had several options for dinner and beverages. We went to what I'd describe as a "rustic" place for a beer before deciding to have dinner at a much nicer place that could actually be described as a bar/restaurant with a comfortable dining room. There were two teenage boys serving us and initially they were quite complacent about what they were doing. That changed notably when the woman who ran the place spoke to them and they immediately became more attentive. My guess is that she was their mother!
Day 16 (Oct. 5): Vilar do Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambia
This was one of our easiest walking days - 14 km and limited elevation! 😊 After finishing today's walk, I reflected that within the context of a Camino journey 14 km seems like an easy day while a walk of that distance at home would be considered a substantial walk. Our body and mind can more easily adjust to notable change and demands than we often think possible!
A substantial portion of today's walk was through beautiful forest with many large old red oak trees. The remainder of the walk was through small villages and a bit on paved roads with light traffic. In terms of weather, it was mostly overcast until nearing our destination (Xunqueira de Ambia) when the sun came out.
At the end of day 16, we had completed 330 km with about 140 km to go. Note: One thing that most people who walk a Camino learn is that determining precise distances can be difficult especially when there are diversions due to construction (highway or railroad), alternate routes to an attraction or historic site, and/or route options.
Day 17 (Oct. 6): Xunqueira de Ambia to Ourense
The 22 km walk on day 17 was straightforward with an elevation gain of about 300 metres spread over a long distance. At the end of the day, however, there was a significant descent of more than 600 metres by the time we arrived in the city of Ourense. The walking conditions were a mix of forest trails and country roads for more than half the distance and then followed a lot of paved road and sidewalks as we walked into the city. Until approaching the city, it was generally quiet except for birds and barking dogs. We took a few coffee/soft drink breaks along the way and for lunch we shared a tasty plate-sized empanada in a deli. It was tempting to purchase some of the smoked meats hanging in the deli.
We took our only rest day in Ourense which is where our friend Gray joined us. He had travelled to Ourense by train from Ponferrada. The city is the largest centre since departing Salamanca. After settling into the Hotel Atliana, our home for two nights, we explored a bit of the city without a specific destination in mind. The well located hotel is quite modern, but our room was a bit small for three people.
After strolling along a pedestrian mall quite close to the hotel, we found ourselves in the Plaza Mayor, where many people gathered to eat and drink in places ringing the plaza. Dinner of tapas and Rioja wine (red) hit the spot.
Shortly after arriving in Ourense, the temperature was in the high 20s with the forecast for the next day calling for a sunny 29 C. Other than a bit of light rain on one day near the start of the Camino, we continued to be blessed with great weather.
Rest Day (Oct. 7): Ourense
As with cities throughout Spain, the oldest areas of Ourense have plenty of appeal with their centuries-old buildings and narrow streets that come alive in the evenings. Along with Salamanca, it would be good to visit Ourense again.
Day 18 (Oct. 8): Ourense to Cea
As we started walking, it came to mind that we were now on the "home stretch" after having completed three-quarters of the journey. Our destination was the town of Cea, some 23 km away. At the start, however, we got off route when leaving Ourense when missing a turn-off; adding about 2 km to the distance because we had to backtrack in order to get back on route. The walk was more challenging than I anticipated and by the end of the day we had ascended over 600 metres with 325 metres of that being in the steep section just after leaving the city. A bonus of the sharp ascent was looking back for good views of the city.
Walking was on a mix of a trails and paved road with little traffic. For most of the day, the sky was overcast, which meant we did not have to contend with the bright sun and heat even thought the humidity was high. Over the last third of the walk, we encountered some light rain/mist that had a cooling effect.
Our stay in Cea was at Casa Mañoso - clean and comfortable in a good location near the route and a short walk to the village centre. Definitely would stay here again! The town of 2,300 has many services and is known for its bakeries. While we saw only a few bakeries, the town supposedly has 17 bakeries and reportedly had as many as 50 at one point in its history. The monument below celebrates the town's baking tradition.
We had one of most enjoyable dinners at the Sol y Luna (sun and moon) restaurant/café. The food was excellent - the first course was a delicious pasta followed by bbq’d lomo (pork) and cake for dessert. We also shared a bottle of very fine red wine. The cost per person was €12!!! While we often paid less, this was an inexpensive meal for the quality. Food and wine in Spain most often are good and always cheap compared to what we pay at home!! The people at “Sol y Luna” (family business I think) were warm and welcoming.
The café/restaurant was unique as it included a bit of a convenience store as well as a gift shop with an eclectic variety of games, toys, dishes, pottery and more.
On our way to dinner we encountered an older gentlemen who engaged us in conversation using very good English. He owned a clothing store across the street from the restaurant and was very interested in chatting with us when he heard us speaking English. He was intrigued that we were from Canada and told us he had learned English many years earlier when living in Cambridge, England. He returned to Cea because his wife wanted to live in Spain. He explained that his health was not good; he seemed to enjoy our conversation. When leaving the restaurant, he was waiting for us to have another chat. Meeting and having conversation with him was wonderful and another great example of Spanish hospitality.
Day 19 (Oct. 9): Cea to Castro Dozon
We had a nice start to the day with a light breakfast at “Sol y Luna” café. in terms of walking, this was a fairly demanding day as we ascended and descended throughout much of the walk, including one ascent of over 500 metres.
Day 20 (Oct. 10): Castro Dozon to Estacion de Lalin
For dinner, we went to the restaurant linked to the hostel. The dining room was reasonably large with a bit of class compared to many places. On top of that, we had a good meal. We were given more than enough wine, so were able to share the extra with some men at another table.
Day 21 (Oct. 11): Estacion de Lalin to Silleda
At one point we made the transition from road walking to a forest road along side a stream where there were two impressive bridges several hundred years old with a modern highway bridge towering well above our route. Quite a contrast.
Our destination was the large town/small city of Silleda with a population of 9,000. We stayed in a modern hostel (Casas Novas Hosteleria) located a bit away from the centre of town near a traffic circle where a couple of highways connect. Our sleeping arrangements were two bedrooms in what would be considered an apartment. A different arrangement than other places.
We had a good dinner in the hostel dining room. While it did not have the historic charm or character of many places, our dining and sleeping needs were well met.
At the end of the day, we were only 42 km from the conclusion of our journey.
The weather and temperature were ideal for walking - overcast and 16-17 C. Like most days, I walked in a short-sleeve t-shirt. Even on the brisk mornings, I find it makes me feel alive. In addition to the walking conditions and even with the overcast sky we were able to enjoy the scenery of the beautiful Galician hills.
On the walk, we encountered two young men from Denver University (Colorado, USA) and learned they were in Spain at a university in Alicante for a “study abroad” semester. Later we came across four young women who are part of the same academic program. Fantastic opportunity for these young people to experience another culture while pursuing their education!
Day 23 (Oct. 13): Ponte Ulla to Santiago
After a night of heavy rain, we set out for the last day of walking shortly after 9:00 am under an overcast sky. While we anticipated a wet day, it did not turn out to be the case and the walk was pretty much rain free. We covered the 18 km distance easily without any sense of being in a hurry. Once we got into the city of Santiago, we went directly to the plaza in front of the cathedral where most pilgrims conclude their journey. In contrast to 2013 and 2016, we entered the city from the south rather than the east. It was easy to find the way and as we got closer to the old city it was good to see familiar landmarks to guide us. It is always a fun atmosphere around the cathedral as people revel in completion of their walk. While all of this was familiar to Phil, Gray and me, it was a first time experience for Lloyd. It was wonderful to be back in this historic city.
We spent some time in the plaza taking photos and relaxing. After basking in the atmosphere for a while, we went to the Pilgrim Office to see if there was any possibility of obtaining our Compostelas. Due the large number of pilgrims, it wasn't possible to receive our Compostela at that time, so we made our way to the Hotel Atalaia, where three of us (Phil, Lloyd and me) were staying. The hotel is in an old building that has been tastefully modernized. Our room was the penthouse floor; it had a large main area with queen-sized bed at one end and a bedroom with two smaller beds. Spacious and comfortable. A good breakfast was included with the room.
As we settled in the vibe of Santiago, I felt a sense of satisfaction about what had been accomplished and experienced since departing Salamanca on September 20. Even with having completed about 470 km, I sensed an urge to continue walking beyond Santiago. At the same time, however, I was getting a bit anxious to be home and being able to spend time with my grandchildren and their parents. I feel deeply blessed to have had another Camino experience and to finish the journey in the historic city of Santiago with friends!
After our first sleep in Santiago, we went to the Pilgrim Office first thing to join the substantial lineup of pilgrims wanting to obtain their Compostela. It was a long wait with the line starting outside in the damp and cool morning. Eventually we were able to go inside to a large waiting room that was reasonably warm, but the wait continued for a long time.
While we were in Santiago, the weather was rainy and overcast, but even in those conditions it was fun to explore and wander around in many familiar areas. The atmosphere in the old city seems to be consistently upbeat with pilgrims milling about as they bask in the exhilaration of what they have accomplished. Compared to the two previous times in the city (2013 and 2016), however, one negative things was evidence of the difficult economic situation facing many people - begging and panhandling. The same was also seen in Madrid.
Among the highlights of the time in Santiago was going to the Pilgrimage Museum again, visiting the cathedral even though some areas were blocked off due to maintenance and returning to restaurants where we had wonderful dining experiences in 2013 and 2015.
For the last night in Santiago, two of us (Phil and I) switched lodging as planned. The next morning we had an early flight back to Madrid.
Ultreia….Buen Camino!!
I am grateful that I walked my third Camino in Spain last fall. With the COVID-19 pandemic affecting the world, the impact in Spain are been severe and it seems the amount of Camino walking in Spain will be limited until 2021 except for people living there. While I wait with the hope of walking another Camino, I am pleased to share from last fall's experience.
What is the Camino?
The Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, is a network of pilgrimages or pilgrim routes leading to the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains and relics of Saint James (Santiago in Spanish) are buried. Historically, pilgrims have followed various routes as a spiritual journey for growth, enlightenment, penance, or other reason. In modern times, walking a Camino has taken on new meaning for many people as it has become popular with hiking and cycling enthusiasts. The most well known and travelled route is the Camino Frances (French Way). There are several routes that start in other European countries before going through Spain to reach Santiago. During the Middle Ages, the route was highly travelled with as many as half a million pilgrims annually making the journey. However, the Plague or Black Death, the Protestant Reformation and political unrest in 16th century Europe led to a decline of interest in the pilgrimage to Santiago. By the 1980s, only a few hundred pilgrims registered annually in the pilgrim's office upon arrival in Santiago. In October 1987, the route was declared the first European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe and was also named one of UNESCO's World Heritage Sites. Since the late 1980s the number of those walking the route has steadily increased with pilgrims coming from around the world. In 2019, about 347,000 people received a certification of completion (Compostela) at the pilgrim's centre in Santiago, with 94 % having walked and others making the journey by bicycle, horse or donkey, or wheelchair. The map below shows some of the many pilgrimage routes that eventually end in Santiago de Compostela, often converging with the Camino Frances. It is easy to locate the major centres of our journey (Salamanca, Zamora, Ourense and Santiago).
Why walk another Camino?
The Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, is a network of pilgrimages or pilgrim routes leading to the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains and relics of Saint James (Santiago in Spanish) are buried. Historically, pilgrims have followed various routes as a spiritual journey for growth, enlightenment, penance, or other reason. In modern times, walking a Camino has taken on new meaning for many people as it has become popular with hiking and cycling enthusiasts. The most well known and travelled route is the Camino Frances (French Way). There are several routes that start in other European countries before going through Spain to reach Santiago. During the Middle Ages, the route was highly travelled with as many as half a million pilgrims annually making the journey. However, the Plague or Black Death, the Protestant Reformation and political unrest in 16th century Europe led to a decline of interest in the pilgrimage to Santiago. By the 1980s, only a few hundred pilgrims registered annually in the pilgrim's office upon arrival in Santiago. In October 1987, the route was declared the first European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe and was also named one of UNESCO's World Heritage Sites. Since the late 1980s the number of those walking the route has steadily increased with pilgrims coming from around the world. In 2019, about 347,000 people received a certification of completion (Compostela) at the pilgrim's centre in Santiago, with 94 % having walked and others making the journey by bicycle, horse or donkey, or wheelchair. The map below shows some of the many pilgrimage routes that eventually end in Santiago de Compostela, often converging with the Camino Frances. It is easy to locate the major centres of our journey (Salamanca, Zamora, Ourense and Santiago).
There are many reasons why people walk a pilgrimage route such as the Camino Frances. While religious or spiritual reasons were the main motivation historically, a variety of motivations contribute to the appeal to this type of walking such as tourism, cultural, sport/physical challenge, personal life event or mileage such as the death of a family member or friend, curiosity and, of course, spiritual or religious.
Having already walked two Caminos, I was asked by some people why I wanted to do this again. This is both an easy and a bit difficult question to answer, but here are a few thoughts. I very much enjoy walking and aim to have a daily walk of around 8 km throughout the year. During the spring and summer, the length is regularly increased with much longer walks at times - there are many great places to walk/hike in or near Victoria. About 15 years ago, I become interested in long distance walking with my first experience being in 2007 when I walked the well known West Highland Way in Scotland. After a second long distance walk in Scotland (2010) I started to think about the possibility of walking a longer route, but didn't know what or where this might be. The leap from walks of 150-160 km to the much longer distances of many Camino routes seemed like a logical next step and a few years later this lead to my first Camino in 2013, when I walked the Camino Frances route (almost 800 km) with two friends. That experience hooked me on another Camino and it was not long before exploring options for Camino # 2. In 2016, the same two friends and I walked the Camino Madrid for 320 km, joining the Camino Frances in the small city of Sahagun for an overall distance of about 680 km. With completion of the route taken last fall, I have now completed more than 1,900 km of Camino walking. If there is another Camino journey for me, I have a few routes in mind. 😀
Having already walked two Caminos, I was asked by some people why I wanted to do this again. This is both an easy and a bit difficult question to answer, but here are a few thoughts. I very much enjoy walking and aim to have a daily walk of around 8 km throughout the year. During the spring and summer, the length is regularly increased with much longer walks at times - there are many great places to walk/hike in or near Victoria. About 15 years ago, I become interested in long distance walking with my first experience being in 2007 when I walked the well known West Highland Way in Scotland. After a second long distance walk in Scotland (2010) I started to think about the possibility of walking a longer route, but didn't know what or where this might be. The leap from walks of 150-160 km to the much longer distances of many Camino routes seemed like a logical next step and a few years later this lead to my first Camino in 2013, when I walked the Camino Frances route (almost 800 km) with two friends. That experience hooked me on another Camino and it was not long before exploring options for Camino # 2. In 2016, the same two friends and I walked the Camino Madrid for 320 km, joining the Camino Frances in the small city of Sahagun for an overall distance of about 680 km. With completion of the route taken last fall, I have now completed more than 1,900 km of Camino walking. If there is another Camino journey for me, I have a few routes in mind. 😀
Some aspects of what I enjoy about the Camino come from the influence of growing up on a farm, where I learned (without realizing it at the time) that walking is the best way to actually see the details of a landscape. It’s what I see and experience when putting one foot in front of the other that is meaningful to me. Some may think this would be boring, but that is not the case for me.
I also find the act of walking to be satisfying emotionally and physically especially when covering long daily distances on several consecutive days. The feeling of satisfaction holds even when the walking involves significant elevation, a mix of walking conditions and/or less-than-ideal weather conditions. These experiences have shown me many times that I am more adaptable and capable than I sometimes realize. There is an appealing simplicity and rhythm to the day-to-day routine associated with long distance walking. Interesting surprises along the way add to the experience.
As with pilgrims in the Middle Ages, I find there is a spiritual dimension associated with long periods of time to reflect on life and spiritual matters and being able to engage in meaningful conversation with my walking mates. Last fall, for example, one highlight at the beginning of each day was reading a few Bible verses and some prepared thoughts by our companion Lloyd. This lead to deep conversations and reflections every day.
As with pilgrims in the Middle Ages, I find there is a spiritual dimension associated with long periods of time to reflect on life and spiritual matters and being able to engage in meaningful conversation with my walking mates. Last fall, for example, one highlight at the beginning of each day was reading a few Bible verses and some prepared thoughts by our companion Lloyd. This lead to deep conversations and reflections every day.
A bit of background on Camino 2019
After the Camino walks in fall of 2013 and 2016, my mind often turned to the possibility of third walk. Early in 2019, discussions with my previous Camino walking companions prompted exploration of options for a walk later in the year (September-October). Two main considerations guided the research: 1) wanting to finish our walk in front of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela; and 2) walking a shorter route due to some time constraints. Through various discussions we decided that it would also be interesting to walk a completely different route than those of 2013 and 2016.
Shows part of our route (Puebla de Sanabria to Santiago)
While there were three of us on the 2013 and 2016 walks, last fall we started with two more people. Our group of five departed Salamanca on the Via de la Plata and we walked together part way into day six before splitting into two groups (as planned). Two people (Gray and Mat) continued to walk north on the Via de la Plata to join the Camino Frances at Astorga, while three of us (Phil, Lloyd and I) turned west on the Camino Sanabres to follow it all the way to Santiago. Unfortunately, an injury led to Mat having to abandon his walk, but Gray was able to join the three of us in the city of Ourense for our break day and the last six days of walking.
Our entry into Spain was the capital city of Madrid. I was the first to arrive (early morning on Sept. 16), which gave me the opportunity to take care of a few details related to our walk - securing a SIM card and air time for local calling, purchasing train tickets for traveling to Salamanca and obtaining a pilgrim’s credential (Credencial del Peregrino) at the Church of Santiago. A credential serves like a pass to gain access to a bed at pilgrim hostels (albergues), which are typically operated by municipalities and religious organizations. There also are private albergues, but not all require a credential to secure a bed. Nevertheless, they want to see your credential as well as the passport from your home country (required by the Spanish government).
My Compostela
After all of us had arrived in Madrid, we had one evening/overnight in the Spanish capital before taking the train to Salamanca around midday on September 18. We spent two nights and one day in Salamanca prior to starting to walk on September 20.
When arriving in Madrid, I found it exciting to be back in Spain and quickly felt connected with aspects of a culture and the way of life I had grown to enjoy. Obviously, there are adjustments in a different culture, but Spain works for me. For example, most businesses close for a few hours during the hottest part of the day and then re-open around 5:00 pm or later. This happens year round. Consequently, most people in Spain do not eat dinner until well into the evening (8:00 pm or later) even though it is possible in places on Camino routes to have a "pilgrim dinner" a bit earlier.
A morning coffee is part of my normal each day and I am pleased that the coffee in Spain is very good. Being back in Spain, I was quickly reminded that dining there almost always is enjoyable - many varieties of tapas, excellent red wines, smoked meats, cheese, pastries and more. There are plazas and squares in towns and cities that are common gathering places for families and friends. I am drawn to these places to soak up the ambiance while enjoying a coffee or other beverage while people watching. Adjusting to the cultural differences is not difficult, but takes a bit of time with some things.
A morning coffee is part of my normal each day and I am pleased that the coffee in Spain is very good. Being back in Spain, I was quickly reminded that dining there almost always is enjoyable - many varieties of tapas, excellent red wines, smoked meats, cheese, pastries and more. There are plazas and squares in towns and cities that are common gathering places for families and friends. I am drawn to these places to soak up the ambiance while enjoying a coffee or other beverage while people watching. Adjusting to the cultural differences is not difficult, but takes a bit of time with some things.
Salamanca
Located in northwestern Spain, Salamanca is the capital of a province of the same name, which is part of the Castile and Leon region. Founded in the 1100s, it was a key intellectual center in the 15th-16th centuries and with its large international student population the university continues to make an important contribution to the city's vibrant life. The University of Salamanca was founded in 1134 and is the fourth-oldest in Western civilization.
The city is known for its ornate sandstone architecture, cathedral and other historic buildings. As in most Spanish cities, the Plaza Mayor comes alive at night. The plaza in Salamanca is considered as one Spain's grandest! I certainly agree with that assessment.
While we explored the city a bit during our day there, my focus was on starting the walk, more specifically on finding our way out of the city. Along with the guide book and a few Caminomarkers located near the plaza, two of us walked part way out of the city centre to ensure we would not have route finding challenges leaving the city and we were successful in that regard.
A bit of basic information about our Camino route and walk
- started walking on Sept. 20
- arrived in Santiago on Oct. 13
- walked for 23 days with one break day in the city of Ourense (pop. 106,000)
- distance walked was about 470 km; there is not a guidebook with precise distance details for some parts of the route we walked, so I used a few sources to come up with what is a reasonably accurate estimate of the distance
- average daily walking distance of just over 20 km
- daily walking distances ranged between 13 km and 30 km
- fluency in Spanish is not an absolute requirement, but basic Spanish is more helpful on this route than on the previous route walked; Spanish is not required in Santiago, but seems to be appreciated when one at least tries to speak a bit
- encountered other pilgrims every day, but many days we would walk long distances without seeing other pilgrims
- the number increased notably after Ourense because this is about 100 km from Santiago; walking that distance allows a person to receive a certificate of completion (Compostela) in Santiago by providing a credential with two stamps/day for at least 100 km
- varied accommodations - albergues (municipal and private), hostels, casa rural (similar to a B&B), pension and hotels (see descriptions below)
Walking Conditions and Terrain
The walking conditions were a mix of farm/unpaved roads, off-road trails and paved roads/highways. For the paved roads, most were secondary routes so we mostly encountered a limited amount of motor vehicle traffic except for one day. On our sixth day, we started by walking on a quiet road for about five km before we split into two groups. Three of us then walked on the shoulder of a busy two-lane highway for about 24-25 km to our destination. For much of the distance there were many vehicles (cars, vans and larger truck), often being driven at high speed. On top of this, the shoulder of the highway was narrow which meant that vehicles were uncomfortably close to us at times. On other days we encountered paved highway walking with notable traffic volume, but these roads had wide paved shoulders so there were no real safety concerns. Local people in Spain generally do not walk on the busier roads often used by pilgrims, so drivers are not always expecting pedestrians. The lesson is to be alert at all times! Despite one especially scary incident on day 6, most drivers were courteous and pulled over to ensure we had plenty of room.
Lodging
The locations of our overnight stops varied widely in size from towns or villages of 100 or 200 people to quite large centres such as Zamora (66,000) and Ourense (106,000). In the smallest towns, services typically were limited while there tended to be a good range of services in any place with population of 1,000+ especially large urban areas. Even in the smallest villages and towns, however, there usually were at least two lodging and dining options. Albergues - these are most common type of lodging for pilgrims; often referred to as pilgrim hostels; some are operated by municipalities or church affiliated organizations, while others are private; it is possible to make a reservation at many private albergues, but not with the other albergues; these facilities range widely in what is offered and in comfort; many are in older buildings that have been renovated specifically to accommodate pilgrims - think dormitory style of lodging; in many places the facilities are modern; some offer dinner at an extra cost of about €8-10 on top of the lodging cost of €5-10; dinner typically includes three courses and bottomless local wine - excellent value and the quality is good. We spent 9 nights in albergues.
Hostels - a step up from albergues; private room typically for 1-4 people; often have a bar/restaurant in the same facility for dinner and a light breakfast service; prices are at least double the albergue cost; some hostels provide a very good level of comfort. Many hostels can be booked through a service such as Booking.com. We spent 7 nights in hostels.
Hotels - like elsewhere, the cost and quality vary widely; as with hostels, these obviously provide a higher level of privacy and comfort than albergues. We stayed in hotels in Zamora and Ourense.
B&B and Casa Rural - while these types of lodging are different categories in the tourism sector of Spain, I haven't really seen notable differences between them after having stayed in a number of both types on three Caminos. Often breakfast is offered in these establishments and sometimes dinner. All seem to provide more comfort and personalized service than albergues, hostels and even some hotels. We stayed in these on four nights.
Pension - similar to a Casa Rural or B&B, but lodging with this designation does not appear to be widespread in Spain, at least from my experience. Spent one night in a pension.
Here are my favourite lodging facilities and where I would stay again:
- Albergue Turistico de Sabre (El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino) - room was spacious and reasonably comfortable, but the best aspect was the communal style dinner with all the other pilgrims.
- Molina de Castilla (Casa Rural in Montamarta) - beautiful heritage facility; full kitchen access; decent restaurant across the street.
- Municipal Albergue (Rionegro del Puente) - large albergue with only one person other than the three of us; the best aspect was the restaurant across the street Me Gusta Comer - probably the best dinner on our walk until we reached Santiago!
- Hostal Carlos V (Puebla de Sanabria) - even though it was off the route a bit, it was well worth the extra steps and a bit of an ascent. We had a large spacious room with plenty of comfort in an area of the town with many services (restaurants, bars and shops). Our walk to this location was relatively short at 15 km, so we had quite a bit of time to enjoy our time there.
- Casa Rural Irene (Lubian) - comfortable; tastefully restored heritage house; best breakfast of the entire Camino! Much appreciated after a 28 km walk.
- Casa Tomas (hostel in Xunqueira de Ambia) - another great hostel. Quite large and comfortable room with a great bar/restaurant on the main floor. Pleasant town for exploring on a beautiful day, but not a lot to see.
- Casa Mañoso (Cea) - comfortable, very clean with fine amenities; a welcome place after a long day. Going off route by mistake at the start of the day resulted in have to walking a few more kms than anticipated; notable ascent too. Town is for its bakeries! Had a great dinner and good breakfast at the Sol y Luna, which is a restaurant combined with a unique gift shop and small convenient store.
- Hotel Atalaia B&B (Santiago) - a few blocks from the cathedral. We had the top floor to ourselves - comfortable and spacious with a large lounge/living room area; a good breakfast was included.
Except in the smallest towns and villages, there always were a few dining options and the most common were bars with a food service. In contrast to albergues on the Camino Frances, dinner was not quite as widely available at the albergues. That being said, we had many options along the way, particularly in the larger towns and cities. While I did not track our meal costs, restaurant/bar food is relatively inexpensive in Spain even in cities. With a few exceptions, finding a place for a substantial breakfast was much more challenging on this walk than on the Camino Frances. Nevertheless, we usually were able to find places to have a cafe con leche with toast, croissant or similar. The limited options for breakfast is understandable because the number of pilgrims walking our route is a small fraction of those on the Camino Frances. On a couple of days, we did not plan well for lunch so appreciated dinner even more on those days. What worked best for lunch was purchasing fresh local bread (sometimes at a bakery), cold cuts, tomatoes and cheese to make into sandwiches; add some mustard and the result was tasty.
Bread for a couple of days!
Most coffee in Spain is very good and my choice always was cafe con leche (coffee with warm milk). For beverages at the end of the day, there are good beers on offer even though I prefer the taste quality and variety of craft beers available in Victoria. Good local wine was widely available at all restaurants and bars. There is a huge variety of wine produced in Spain and, even though my personal preference is for Rioja, all the wine sampled there has been good.
Finding The Way
Like the first two Camino walks, the route was well supported with signs and yellow markers/arrows that are standard fare on most routes. Even though our route last fall was much less traveled than the Camino Frances, it was straightforward to find the "way" in virtually all situations by using the guidebook and apps on my iPhone. If necessary, one can ask local people for directions and they are always helpful. Occasionally, directions seem a bit difficult to understand when reading the guide, but become much clearer when actually on the route and seeing the landmarks referenced in the guide. An important practice is to watch for signs/markers at all intersections and when walking through villages, towns and cities. These are the places where there often are distractions making it is easy to miss a sign/marker. There were a couple of times where we got off route a bit, but easily corrected the error. Only once did we miss a turn and go in the wrong direction due to not being attentive to the directions in the printed guide and more carefully using the two apps. The lesson is to pay close attention!On the first part of the walk, we saw many round cement posts used to mark the route with writing in Spanish and Arabic. These large markers certainly are easy to spot at intersections and not the style one would see on the Camino Frances. The photos below show a variety of signs, markers and symbols that assisted us.
We used the 2019 edition of the "Walking Guide to the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabres" written by Gerald Kelly, the app from Wise Pilgrim for the same routes and the "Windy Maps" app which can be used for many routes. The two apps were downloaded to my iPhone and I carried a paper copy of the Kelly walking guide. I also purchased the paper guide from Wise Pilgrim "The Via de la Plata & Camino Sanabres" but only used it for planning. In combination these resources worked well and, while there was some overlap, each provided unique benefits, including informtion about lodging options and locations. For quite a bit of lodging, I used Booking.com, which is my "go-to" resource for travel lodging in Europe.
Weather
Weather is something one is aware of when venturing out on a long walk, especially for several days. Obviously, the amount of sun, temperature and precipitation are part of the experience and this is reflected by the mix of clothing and gear one carries. While it was not sunny for the entire journey, we had good walking weather most of the journey. We encountered rain on a few days, but it was light and did not slow our walking. There was plenty of sun and blue sky during the first half of our walk and, while there was plenty of cloud cover as we moved into Galacia and toward the coast, there was not much rain. Like the fall weather many places, clouds and an overcast sky are present in the early morning of most days, and then clear by late morning or noon.
Day-by-day notes
I expect this section will most interest anyone interested in walking the same route, but there also are some short stories that may be of interest to anyone. Day 1 (Sept. 20): Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel
After walking along sidewalks to make our way out of Salamanca, it was good to get into the wide-open countryside. On the first day, we walked just over 16 km through flat terrain and farming areas before stopping for the night in the village of Calzada de Valdunciel at the private pilgrim hostel (albergue) Casa del Molinero. The albergue was constructed principally of stone and large wood beams. It was on the route and easy to find, comfortable and the host (Oscar) was very helpful. The village has some services such as a market, restaurant, bars and a few other services.
Day 2 (Sept. 21): Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino
The walk on day two was a bit longer at 20 km to the village of El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, where we stayed at a private albergue located a couple of blocks off the walking route. Early in the day, we encountered light rain/mist that continued for much of the day's walk. The albergue has two houses with the owners living in one which also has a few rooms for guests. We stayed in the other house fully dedicated to travellers (pilgrims and others). Our room was large and quite comfortable. Even though the walk was straightforward, it felt good to take off my boots, have a hot shower and get into clean clothes. Clean, comfortable and presentable, we walked into the village centre to have a cold beverage and tapas for a late lunch.
Day 3 (Sept. 22): El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino to Villaneuva de Campean
The walk was comparatively short at 14 km with us stopping in the village of Villanueva de Campean to overnight in the municipal albergue. It was a beautiful day with the temperature around 18-20 C, plenty of blue sky with enough cloud cover to provide protection from the sun. The walk again took us through large agricultural fields of fodder corn, sunflowers and grapes. The red soil and rolling hills reminded me of Prince Edward Island on Canada's east coast. The area is known for its good quality wine, which can be said about many parts of Spain. The albergue was a common style - dormitory bedrooms (2), kitchen, two showers and laundry. It was a short walk into the centre of the village. In addition to the five people in our group, there were four other pilgrims at the albegue - a couple from the Netherlands, a young French man and another man who called himself "Herman the German."
After getting settled at the albergue, we strolled into the village centre where there was quite a bit of activity. There were two bars with food services so we were easily able to secure a cold beverage and tapas. We selected the Café Bar Hernandez which was alive with local people, several of whom were engaged in animated card games. I expect this is what one would experience most weekend afternoons in this village and others across the country. Fun to watch!
Day 4 (Sept. 23): Villanueva de Campean to Zamora
We were walking by 8:00 am and treated to a beautiful sunrise. While we started the day without breakfast or coffee, it was a great start to another nice weather day. The 18 km walk took us through more farming areas until we approached Zamora, which is a city of 66,000 and all that goes with a city of this size.
Zamora was one of the largest cities where we stopped for the night and, despite its size, the directions from the Kelly guide were great for arriving and departing the city. The city has a wealth of historic buildings - civil and religious - that include a cathedral, several churches and a large castle (El Castillo). Buildings date back as far as the 12th century. Because of our reasonably early arrival, we had an opportunity to do some exploring, but our first stop was in the Plaza Mayor for a cold beverage before finding our lodging at the Hotel Zenit Dos Infantas.
We finished the day with a very fine dinner at an Italian restaurant followed by a stop at a large convenience store to purchase provisions for the next day's lunch.
Day 5 (Sept. 24): Zamora to Montamarta
Our fifth day started with a light breakfast and café con leche, followed by 19 km of walking. Finding our way out of Zamora was pretty straightforward as there are plenty of route markers, but care had to be taken to stay on the correct route. There are two Camino routes departing Zamora through the same area initially and we didn't want to mistakenly take the route to Portugal.
The pattern of walking through a farming area continued with most of our walking on gravel roads once we were beyond the outskirts of Zamora. The route was relatively flat and did not take us through any villages or towns, so we stopped for lunch at the intersection of two farm roads and enjoyed the provisions procured in Zamora - baguette, chorizo, cheese, sliced tomatoes and a tin of white asparagus. Again we were blessed with a sunny day.
By early afternoon we arrived in the town of Montamarta, which marked the completion 90 km of the overall journey. When arriving in Montamarta, the town had the mid-day deserted look and feel of most towns and villages in Spain. It took us a bit of time to locate a place to stay overnight (no reservations). We eventually settled into a comfortable and spacious casa rural called La Molina Castilla. The building is an old restored flour mill and was a good choice! We were able to relax, hand wash some clothing and hang it in the sun to quickly dry.
The pattern of walking through a farming area continued with most of our walking on gravel roads once we were beyond the outskirts of Zamora. The route was relatively flat and did not take us through any villages or towns, so we stopped for lunch at the intersection of two farm roads and enjoyed the provisions procured in Zamora - baguette, chorizo, cheese, sliced tomatoes and a tin of white asparagus. Again we were blessed with a sunny day.
By early afternoon we arrived in the town of Montamarta, which marked the completion 90 km of the overall journey. When arriving in Montamarta, the town had the mid-day deserted look and feel of most towns and villages in Spain. It took us a bit of time to locate a place to stay overnight (no reservations). We eventually settled into a comfortable and spacious casa rural called La Molina Castilla. The building is an old restored flour mill and was a good choice! We were able to relax, hand wash some clothing and hang it in the sun to quickly dry.
Montamarta has a very good supermercado (small supermarket) with a wide selection of food, so we were able to obtain provisions for breakfast and lunch the next day. In the evening, we had a very good dinner at the Rosa Mari located across the street from where we were staying.
Day 6 (Sept. 25): Montamarta to Tabara
Knowing we faced a long day of walking (estimate of 30 km), we started day six with breakfast at 7:30 am in a communal style kitchen using provisions purchased the previous evening. We started walking around 8:30 am, being treated to a beautiful sunrise and great views of the town as we looked back.
After about 4.5 km, our band of five split into groups of two and three as we headed in different routes with the final direction for all of us being Santiago. Two people (Gray and Mat) headed north on the Via de la Plata to join the Camino Frances in the city of Astorga. Three of us (Phil, Lloyd and I) headed west to join the Camino Sanabres at the next overnight destination of Tabara.
Even though the route was mostly flat, we were tired when arriving in Tabara after a 30-km walk. In addition to the distance, the tiredness was due in part by the fairly warm temperatures in the high 20s C and having to be constantly alert to the traffic. The cerveza tasted especially good and served to refresh us! About two-thirds of the way throughout our walk we found a shady spot to make and enjoy lunch. Dinner at the albergue was straightforward - good basic food.
Tábara is larger than other towns/villages up to this point and with that comes more services than the other places we stopped since leaving Salamanca (Zamora being the exception).
Day 7 (Sept. 26): Tabara to Santa Marta de Tera
After a light breakfast (toast and cafe con leche) at the Hotel El Roble, we started walking just before 8:00 am and arrived in Santa Marta de Tera after 23 km. The walking conditions again were good and the route took us through a few towns and villages, stopping in Villaneuva de las Peras for a coffee while sitting in the sun. We then walked up a hill and had lunch as we sat on benches outside a small church. Very pleasant stop!
We arrived at our destination of Santa Marta de Tera in the mid-afternoon and easily found the municipal albergue. It is a modernized old building with 13 beds in two rooms. It had more amenities than some places such as large showers with plenty of hot water, a small kitchen/dining area for pilgrim use and ample clothes lines for hanging clothes to dry. Our room had bunk beds for six people, but we were the only three in the room. There were two other people (cyclists) in the other bedroom.
We continued with our reasonably early walking starts and were on our way before 8:00 am. When leaving town, we got off track a wee bit, but were able to correct the error without backtracking. It was a cool and pleasant morning for walking as we set out on the 28 km journey to Rionegro del Puente.
Probably the big challenge on day 8 was not having breakfast or coffee until well into the day. When starting, the hope was to stop at La Trucha bar/restaurant in the village of Olleros de Tera for breakfast, but to our disappointment it was not open. So we dipped into limited provisions for something that didn't quite resemble a normal breakfast except for an orange we shared. As we were eating the cobbled together breakfast, an older local man walked past and we asked if he knew when La Trucha would be open and his answer was classic - "whenever he wants to!"
A while after arriving and settling into the municipal albergue in Rionegro, the hospitelero (host) arrived to welcome us and take payment for the lodging. We asked her about good places for dinner and she quickly recommended Me Gusta Comer directly across the street. So, our plan was to have dinner there. In the meantime, we found a bar to have a cold beverage and snack while relaxing, checking email, etc. The only other pilgrim at the albergue was the young German man we had seen a few times.
Day 9 (Sept. 28): Rionegro del Puente to Asturianos
After a good sleep, our walk started under a clear sky and cool temperature of 4 C - an invigorating start to the day. It was a beautiful day for walking and it got much warmer in the afternoon at 26-27 C. The distance to the next destination (Asturianos) was 26 km and we added a bit more because of following the wrong route marker at one point. It required a bit of backtracking, but not a notable issue. We walked for about 2.5 hours before stopping for breakfast. Around the same time we stopped at a bakery and supermercado to purchase lunch supplies for a couple of days. Most of the day's walk was through rural countryside with good conditions (farm roads and trails). While there was a bit of road walking, traffic was not a problem. The first part of the walk was reasonably flat and, while there were more hills later in the day, we had not yet come to the big hills.
A highlight of the day was stopping to assemble and eat lunch at the entrance in a small village as we sat on a stone wall in light shade - perfect setting. Then, part way through the afternoon we saw a large stag (deer) and just a couple of minutes later we saw several more deer across a field. It’s the first time I’ve seen a wild animal of such a large size on the three Caminos. Most often, the wild critters have been rabbits or overly zealous pilgrims.
In Asturianos, we stayed in the municipal albergue, which is attached to a sports facility. It was off route a bit and, while it was very basic lodging, it met our needs for the night. There were a couple of places for dinner in the village centre close to the route, but we decided to take advantage of the bar/restaurant restaurant attached to the albergue/sports complex. It was not fancy dining, but met our needs for snacks, dinner and beverages. The service was friendly.
We arrived in the mid-afternoon so had the opportunity to hand wash a few things and hang them on outdoor clotheslines to dry in the sun. The only other person at the albergue again was the young man from Germany who we were geting to know. He would sometimes join us for a chat and other times he would wander off to explore on his own. His English was very good and we always enjoyed our conversations with him.
At one point as we were relaxing with a snack and cold beer, the woman in charge of the restaurant started rearranging some of the tables and putting white tablecloths on them. It seemed that more people would be coming for the evening. When we came back for dinner, several local folks arrived soon after and we learned the big attraction was a football (soccer) game on the large screen TV. It was a fun time - lots of animated conversations and energy similar to what we had seen in other places. It was a Saturday evening so maybe the parallel in Canada would be "Hockey Night in Canada."
Municipal albergue is in the extension on the side of the sports complex
Another interesting thing about this stop was the shooting range adjacent to the sports facility. Several people showed up in the late afternoon for target practice with gunshots being heard until the sun started to set.
Walking note: After an average of just over 17 km per day for the first five days, our daily average distance increased significantly over days 6-9 (Sept. 25-28) to 27 km.
Day 10 (Sept. 29): Asturianos to Puebla de Sanabria
The day 10 destination was Puebla de Sanabria, about a 15 km journey. It was another cool morning, but warmed throughout the day and most of the time we walked in sun. Route finding was straightforward and after a few km we stopped in a small village (Palacios de Sanabria) for a light breakfast. We quickly observed that the target practice of the previous evening may well have related to it being hunting season. We had a choice of two places for breakfast (bars/restaurants) - sitting outside with a group of wild boar hunters in their camouflage clothing or going across the street to a quieter place with a mix of local people not wearing camo clothing along with three Garda Civil officers. We chose the latter. The café con leche and toast hit the spot.
For the following morning, the dining room opened early to accommodate our request for breakfast at 7:30 am, which was a great way to start the day.
Day 11 (Sept. 30): Puebla de Sanabria to Lubian
With breakfast in our tummies for the second morning in a row, we started walking around 8:00 am. After three hours, we reached a town where we had a coffee/coke along with a light lunch. When we reached the town of Requejo de Sanabria, we had to again divert from the original way to an alternate route. After a steady uphill pace over about 8 km we reached the highest point of the Camino Sanabres route - 1350 metres. We then descended almost 300 metres to the lovely town of Lubian where we are stayed at La Casa Irene.
The 11th day of walking was quite demanding due to the combination of the 28 km distance and notable ascent (400 metres). Walking conditions were a mix - forest paths, gravel roads and plenty of paved road walking on the shoulder of a reasonably busy highway. The highway walking was due to a section of the traditional Camino route being closed because of major rail line construction. While the traffic was noisy, virtually all drivers moved over to ensure we had plenty of space; quite a contrast from the day 6 walk to Tabara. In terms of elevation gain, the paved shoulder walking made for predictable steps and a smooth surface which often is not the case with trail and off-road walking.
While it was a good physical workout for the day, we were not exhausted upon arrival in Lubian. After settling in and relaxing a bit, we walked into the centre of town for a cold beer at one of the two bars followed by going to the other bar (next door) for dinner. On our way into the centre of town we stopped at a small church because we heard choral music (recorded). It was refreshing to sit quietly to reflect and pray for a few minutes.
The 11th day of walking was quite demanding due to the combination of the 28 km distance and notable ascent (400 metres). Walking conditions were a mix - forest paths, gravel roads and plenty of paved road walking on the shoulder of a reasonably busy highway. The highway walking was due to a section of the traditional Camino route being closed because of major rail line construction. While the traffic was noisy, virtually all drivers moved over to ensure we had plenty of space; quite a contrast from the day 6 walk to Tabara. In terms of elevation gain, the paved shoulder walking made for predictable steps and a smooth surface which often is not the case with trail and off-road walking.
Day 12 (Oct. 1): Lubian to A Gudina
After what I think was our best breakfast (at Casa Irene) of the entire walk, we again set off on our journey. It was overcast first thing in the morning and threatening rain at times, but it turned into a beautiful day with sun in the midday and afternoon. When leaving Lubian we had a significant climb, meaning that our ascent during the day was even more than the previous day (about 700 vs. 400 metres). The walking distance of 25 km meant that we had finished 262 km of our Camino journey by the end of the day.
It was after entering Galicia that we stopped to spend some time in personal reflection by placing small stones in memory and/or prayer for family members, friends or another reason. Stones of various sizes, shapes and characteristics are used as symbols for reflection in many cultures and traditions. Each of us brought small stones from home with specific people in mind and we thoughtfully placed each stone along with a time of prayer and reflection.
We reached our destination of A Gudina (pop. about 1,500) in mid-afternoon and, after settling into the Hostal Madrilena, we kept to our routine of having a cold beverage and something to eat. The lodging was not fancy but it was quiet and only at short walk to the Peregrino Bar for dinner.
Day 13 (Oct. 2): A Gudina to Campobecerros
Day 13 (Oct. 2): A Gudina to Campobecerros
After the standard light breakfast at the hostel we started walking in a temperature of 7 C. It was cloudy in the morning, but the sunshine gradually increased during the day. From the outset, we faced a steady ascent, offsetting the elevation descent at the end of the previous day. It was a 20 km walk to our destination of Campobecerros with ascent being just over 500 metres. Most of the walking was on paved roads, but not busy with traffic. The town is small with a population of about 200. We stayed at Albergue de Rosario - very basic. We walked into the small village and found a place to eat. The most interesting thing about this stop was a man staying at the albergue who had each piece of his clothing in individual plastic bags and he spent over an hour opening each bag and carefully folding his clothing, only to repeat this number of times. Always interesting!
It was a 15 km walk to our next destination - Laza. The ascent was about 425 metres to start the day, but the relatively short distance meant that it was not a demanding day. We reached an elevation of about 900 metres and then descended by 475 metres as we got close to Laza. At about 1,400 people, Laza is one of the larger towns where we stopped. Much of the walking was on paved road, but there were few cars so we didn’t have to be constantly alert. As we descended into town, we walked through forests of pine and oak, chestnut and other tree species. Plenty of beautiful scenery with sunny weather - very enjoyable! Having an easier day was good because among us there were a few foot blisters; not big problems and generally we were in good health.
About 6 km from Laza, we stopped for a few minutes at a self-serve roadside table set up specifically to support pilgrims - coffee, tea and cookies. No charge, but there was a donation box. A bit later we stopped for a break and snack in what was a small park set up for local use - picnic tables, two bbqs and more. With no one else was around, it was quiet and a pleasant place to take a break.
Our accommodation was at the Pension Blanco Conde near where the route enters town. We easily found our lodging - called the host who came quickly to open the door and give us a warm welcome. As with quite a few albergues and other lodging on this route it is necessary to call the host to obtain a key - one of the main reasons we needed local phone capability. Our room was spacious and comfortable with a pastoral view on two sides overlooking farm fields. After showers and settling in a bit, we walked into town to relax at the Bar Picota with a cold beverage and snack. We then went to a small supermarket to purchase provisions for the next day. After relaxing at the pension, we walked back into town for dinner at the Picota restaurant upstairs from the bar. Compared to the small bar, the restaurant has a large dining room and a very pleasant setting to enjoy a tasty dinner. It was a busy place - obviously popular with locals.
We started another day with a light breakfast, which we definitely needed before setting out on the 19 km walk to Vilar do Barrio. After about 6.5 km of generally flat walking, we started a steep 400 metre climb to the town of Albergueria. While we had longer ascents, this one likely was the steepest over a short distance. It was most interesting to stop in Albergueria for lunch at the unique El Rincon del Peregrino. While I had read about El Rincon during the planning, it was more than I expected. The walls and ceiling are covered with scallop shells (an iconic Camino symbol), each having the name of at least one pilgrim on it. There are thousands of shells (see photo below). On top of that, the lunch was good!
It was overcast and quite warm when we started walking and, while we ended the day in sun, a light cloud cover helped keep us reasonably cool. Much of the walk was through beautiful forest and again we were treated to fantastic views.
During the last part of today’s walk, we saw many varieties of mushrooms, so this was a great opportunity for our resident fungi expert (Lloyd) to give us a bit of an education about mushroom identification and the key features of different varieties. Our education continued at various times during the following days. Interesting stuff.
Okay to eat
Not okay to eat
Lodging in Vilar do Barrio was in a fairly large Xunta albergue (run by the Galician regional government). It is a modern facility with 24 beds - bunkbeds, laundry and a few other amenities. At 5:30 pm, we were the only people there, but four cyclists arrived a bit later! The town of 1,400 was located on a fairly busy two-lane highway and had several options for dinner and beverages. We went to what I'd describe as a "rustic" place for a beer before deciding to have dinner at a much nicer place that could actually be described as a bar/restaurant with a comfortable dining room. There were two teenage boys serving us and initially they were quite complacent about what they were doing. That changed notably when the woman who ran the place spoke to them and they immediately became more attentive. My guess is that she was their mother!
Day 16 (Oct. 5): Vilar do Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambia
This was one of our easiest walking days - 14 km and limited elevation! 😊 After finishing today's walk, I reflected that within the context of a Camino journey 14 km seems like an easy day while a walk of that distance at home would be considered a substantial walk. Our body and mind can more easily adjust to notable change and demands than we often think possible!
A substantial portion of today's walk was through beautiful forest with many large old red oak trees. The remainder of the walk was through small villages and a bit on paved roads with light traffic. In terms of weather, it was mostly overcast until nearing our destination (Xunqueira de Ambia) when the sun came out.
About two-thirds of the way through the walk we stopped at the Cafe Bo Camino in the small village of Padroso for cafe con leche accompanied with a snack of cookies, grapes (red and green) and tapas; sort of a late breakfast. As in many places, the snacks were free. Very pleasant stop!
We are stayed overnight at Casa Tomas, which is a private albergue far nicer than most albergues. It was easy to find in the centre of the village across from a large church. Our room was on the second floor and from its balcony we overlooked the centre of town. It is an old building that has been significantly modernized. It was enjoyable to relax on the balcony and soak up the warmth of the sun. Casa Tomas has an attached bar on the main floor where we had a light lunch and liquid refreshments. After exploring the town and relaxing for a while, we came back to also have dinner at Casa Tomas. This was one of my favourite stops.
At the end of day 16, we had completed 330 km with about 140 km to go. Note: One thing that most people who walk a Camino learn is that determining precise distances can be difficult especially when there are diversions due to construction (highway or railroad), alternate routes to an attraction or historic site, and/or route options.
Day 17 (Oct. 6): Xunqueira de Ambia to Ourense
The 22 km walk on day 17 was straightforward with an elevation gain of about 300 metres spread over a long distance. At the end of the day, however, there was a significant descent of more than 600 metres by the time we arrived in the city of Ourense. The walking conditions were a mix of forest trails and country roads for more than half the distance and then followed a lot of paved road and sidewalks as we walked into the city. Until approaching the city, it was generally quiet except for birds and barking dogs. We took a few coffee/soft drink breaks along the way and for lunch we shared a tasty plate-sized empanada in a deli. It was tempting to purchase some of the smoked meats hanging in the deli.
We took our only rest day in Ourense which is where our friend Gray joined us. He had travelled to Ourense by train from Ponferrada. The city is the largest centre since departing Salamanca. After settling into the Hotel Atliana, our home for two nights, we explored a bit of the city without a specific destination in mind. The well located hotel is quite modern, but our room was a bit small for three people.
After strolling along a pedestrian mall quite close to the hotel, we found ourselves in the Plaza Mayor, where many people gathered to eat and drink in places ringing the plaza. Dinner of tapas and Rioja wine (red) hit the spot.
Shortly after arriving in Ourense, the temperature was in the high 20s with the forecast for the next day calling for a sunny 29 C. Other than a bit of light rain on one day near the start of the Camino, we continued to be blessed with great weather.
This was a relaxing day and started with breakfast at a restaurant adjacent to the hotel, which clearly was popular with many local people who stopped for coffee to take away or have in-house. The full breakfast was tasty compared to the basic breakfasts on most days.
After breakfast, the rest of the day involved a mix of relaxed exploring - cathedral, an outdoor market that was a bit of a zoo, a visit to the hot springs (closed) and plenty of wandering. Checked my phone at the end of the day and I had walked over 14,000 steps - not bad for a rest day! Much of my wandering was alone and then I connected with the other guys at different times during the day. Below are two interesting statues reflecting a bit of local history.
After breakfast, the rest of the day involved a mix of relaxed exploring - cathedral, an outdoor market that was a bit of a zoo, a visit to the hot springs (closed) and plenty of wandering. Checked my phone at the end of the day and I had walked over 14,000 steps - not bad for a rest day! Much of my wandering was alone and then I connected with the other guys at different times during the day. Below are two interesting statues reflecting a bit of local history.
As with cities throughout Spain, the oldest areas of Ourense have plenty of appeal with their centuries-old buildings and narrow streets that come alive in the evenings. Along with Salamanca, it would be good to visit Ourense again.
Leaving Ourense
Modern bridge over Rio Mino
Day 18 (Oct. 8): Ourense to Cea
Walking was on a mix of a trails and paved road with little traffic. For most of the day, the sky was overcast, which meant we did not have to contend with the bright sun and heat even thought the humidity was high. Over the last third of the walk, we encountered some light rain/mist that had a cooling effect.
Our stay in Cea was at Casa Mañoso - clean and comfortable in a good location near the route and a short walk to the village centre. Definitely would stay here again! The town of 2,300 has many services and is known for its bakeries. While we saw only a few bakeries, the town supposedly has 17 bakeries and reportedly had as many as 50 at one point in its history. The monument below celebrates the town's baking tradition.
We had one of most enjoyable dinners at the Sol y Luna (sun and moon) restaurant/café. The food was excellent - the first course was a delicious pasta followed by bbq’d lomo (pork) and cake for dessert. We also shared a bottle of very fine red wine. The cost per person was €12!!! While we often paid less, this was an inexpensive meal for the quality. Food and wine in Spain most often are good and always cheap compared to what we pay at home!! The people at “Sol y Luna” (family business I think) were warm and welcoming.
On our way to dinner we encountered an older gentlemen who engaged us in conversation using very good English. He owned a clothing store across the street from the restaurant and was very interested in chatting with us when he heard us speaking English. He was intrigued that we were from Canada and told us he had learned English many years earlier when living in Cambridge, England. He returned to Cea because his wife wanted to live in Spain. He explained that his health was not good; he seemed to enjoy our conversation. When leaving the restaurant, he was waiting for us to have another chat. Meeting and having conversation with him was wonderful and another great example of Spanish hospitality.
From Cea we had less than 100 km left to walk and, with the end of our walk getting closer, I was noticing that the mornings were darker when we started out. An 8:00 am start meant we were walking before the sun had risen.
Day 19 (Oct. 9): Cea to Castro Dozon
We had a nice start to the day with a light breakfast at “Sol y Luna” café. in terms of walking, this was a fairly demanding day as we ascended and descended throughout much of the walk, including one ascent of over 500 metres.
The walk out of Cea was steep as we took the route option to the village of Oseira where there is a monastery dating back hundreds of years. After about 8 km we arrived at the monastery and about 30 minutes later participated in a scheduled tour. When in Oseira, we also took time for a cafe con leche before the tour and lunch after the tour at the Cafe-Bar Venezuela.
Then leaving Oseira there was another significant ascent as we encountered a mix of walking conditions, some of which required careful attention because of rocky and uneven footing. For the last part of the 20 km walk into Castro Dozon (destination), we has a descent of about 350 metres.
Our lodging in Castro Dozon was at the Xunta albergue, where we shared space with about 20 other pilgrims (largest number thus far). Encountering more pilgrims at this stage likely can be explained by the fact that many people start walking in Ourense because they can receive a Compostela (certificate of completion) by providing evidence of having walked at least 100 km.
In Castro Dozon, the albergue is a bit off route after the main part of the village, but it is easy to find. The albergue seemed to be operated by a group of young women who did a great job!
The albergue had two levels with the dormitory sleeping rooms being on one level and some private rooms on the lower level along with shower rooms, kitchen and dining room. We had a good pilgrim dinner at the albergue.
As with most places, there was a laundry area for hand washing clothes and lines for drying.
Throughout the day, there was plenty of sun and the day finished with a beautiful sunset.
In Castro Dozon, the albergue is a bit off route after the main part of the village, but it is easy to find. The albergue seemed to be operated by a group of young women who did a great job!
The albergue had two levels with the dormitory sleeping rooms being on one level and some private rooms on the lower level along with shower rooms, kitchen and dining room. We had a good pilgrim dinner at the albergue.
As with most places, there was a laundry area for hand washing clothes and lines for drying.
Throughout the day, there was plenty of sun and the day finished with a beautiful sunset.
Day 20 (Oct. 10): Castro Dozon to Estacion de Lalin
Before leaving Castro Dozon, we walked back into the village to start the day with a light breakfast at Bar Canton. We then set off on the short 13 km walk to Lalin that involved only 200 metres of ascent spread out over the day. While it was cool at the outset, it turned into another sunny day that was perfect for walking.
The walk was straightforward - easy to find the way to Lalin with the route going through forest much of the time. I walked solo quite a bit of the day and found this to be a good time for reflection. As in 2013 and 2016, it was during the last few days that I spent time reflecting on the experience of the previous days, what it will be like to finish in the familiarity of Santiago and wondering a bit about the possibility of a future Camino.
Our lodging in Lalin was at Taberna de Vento (hostel) with the rooms in one building and the restaurant/bar in another building a short distance away. After showers and getting settled in, we found a nearby pub for a beer and snack before exploring the village and discovering there was not much to see. During the trip planning, I did not come across any historical information about the town, but it seems as if it might have been a more substantive community at one time. There is a rarely used train station and the village may now be passed by with the new rail line being put through this part of the country.
For dinner, we went to the restaurant linked to the hostel. The dining room was reasonably large with a bit of class compared to many places. On top of that, we had a good meal. We were given more than enough wine, so were able to share the extra with some men at another table.
Today's walk was another relatively short distance of 15 km. It was a chilly start, but did not take long before the sun started its work. Now that we were well into Galicia, it seemed to be rolling hills continually, many farms and mixed forests surrounding the route. While there was a bit of ascent and descent with the terrain, it was an easy day.
We had a good dinner in the hostel dining room. While it did not have the historic charm or character of many places, our dining and sleeping needs were well met.
At the end of the day, we were only 42 km from the conclusion of our journey.
Day 22 (Oct. 12): Silleda to Ponte Ulla
The penultimate day of this Camino called for a walk of 23 km, most of which had some gradual ascent. Walking was mostly on paved secondary roads, but there was no real concern for safety because the traffic was very light. The weather and temperature were ideal for walking - overcast and 16-17 C. Like most days, I walked in a short-sleeve t-shirt. Even on the brisk mornings, I find it makes me feel alive. In addition to the walking conditions and even with the overcast sky we were able to enjoy the scenery of the beautiful Galician hills.
At mid-morning we stopped at a cafe/bakery for a tasty pastry and cafe con leche! A bit past noon Phil and I stopped for a soft drink and sandwich at an interesting local bar. These types of places are always fun and reflect so much of life in Spanish villages - three guys at the bar engaged in passionate and loud conversation while two older gentlemen at a table near us were enjoying a couple glasses of wine over a quiet conversation. A common expression of Spanish culture.
Our lodging was at the Pension Victoria. The rooms were small and comfortable with the facility having a bar and restaurant on the street level. There did not appear to be another dining option nearby and we did not venture out to explore. The restaurant seemed popular with locals and we were pleased with our dining experience.
We went to bed knowing the weather forecast for the last day of walking called for a 100% chance of rain!! This was a sharp contrast from the fantastic weather for the entire journey to that point with light showers only on a couple of days.
Day 23 (Oct. 13): Ponte Ulla to Santiago
After a night of heavy rain, we set out for the last day of walking shortly after 9:00 am under an overcast sky. While we anticipated a wet day, it did not turn out to be the case and the walk was pretty much rain free. We covered the 18 km distance easily without any sense of being in a hurry. Once we got into the city of Santiago, we went directly to the plaza in front of the cathedral where most pilgrims conclude their journey. In contrast to 2013 and 2016, we entered the city from the south rather than the east. It was easy to find the way and as we got closer to the old city it was good to see familiar landmarks to guide us. It is always a fun atmosphere around the cathedral as people revel in completion of their walk. While all of this was familiar to Phil, Gray and me, it was a first time experience for Lloyd. It was wonderful to be back in this historic city.
Seen when walking into Santiago
We spent some time in the plaza taking photos and relaxing. After basking in the atmosphere for a while, we went to the Pilgrim Office to see if there was any possibility of obtaining our Compostelas. Due the large number of pilgrims, it wasn't possible to receive our Compostela at that time, so we made our way to the Hotel Atalaia, where three of us (Phil, Lloyd and me) were staying. The hotel is in an old building that has been tastefully modernized. Our room was the penthouse floor; it had a large main area with queen-sized bed at one end and a bedroom with two smaller beds. Spacious and comfortable. A good breakfast was included with the room.
As we settled in the vibe of Santiago, I felt a sense of satisfaction about what had been accomplished and experienced since departing Salamanca on September 20. Even with having completed about 470 km, I sensed an urge to continue walking beyond Santiago. At the same time, however, I was getting a bit anxious to be home and being able to spend time with my grandchildren and their parents. I feel deeply blessed to have had another Camino experience and to finish the journey in the historic city of Santiago with friends!
Santiago
After our first sleep in Santiago, we went to the Pilgrim Office first thing to join the substantial lineup of pilgrims wanting to obtain their Compostela. It was a long wait with the line starting outside in the damp and cool morning. Eventually we were able to go inside to a large waiting room that was reasonably warm, but the wait continued for a long time.
While we were in Santiago, the weather was rainy and overcast, but even in those conditions it was fun to explore and wander around in many familiar areas. The atmosphere in the old city seems to be consistently upbeat with pilgrims milling about as they bask in the exhilaration of what they have accomplished. Compared to the two previous times in the city (2013 and 2016), however, one negative things was evidence of the difficult economic situation facing many people - begging and panhandling. The same was also seen in Madrid.
Among the highlights of the time in Santiago was going to the Pilgrimage Museum again, visiting the cathedral even though some areas were blocked off due to maintenance and returning to restaurants where we had wonderful dining experiences in 2013 and 2015.
For the last night in Santiago, two of us (Phil and I) switched lodging as planned. The next morning we had an early flight back to Madrid.
Ultreia….Buen Camino!!
Display of walking poles in the pilgrimage museum
Great blog, Ernie. Very comprehensive and well-written. It was wonderful to review and re-imagine all those places: the "pilgrim's meals", the tapas, the morcilla, the blisters - all good. Thanks for doing this.
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