Glendalough

One of my goals for my time in Northern Ireland/Ireland this year was to visit Glendalough. As with a number of other things here, Glendalough was highly recommended by a number of friends as a "must visit" destination.

Located in the Wicklow hills south of Dublin, Glendalough is translated from Gaelic as the "glen of two lakes." It is best known for its medieval monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin, a descendent of one of the ruling families of the Irish province of Leinster. As a boy, Kevin studied under three holy men and went to Glendalough during this time. He later returned with a small group of monks to found a monastery. His fame spread as a holy man and many followers were attracted to Glendalough. Kevin died in 618, but Glendalough continued to flourish for another six centuries. For various reasons, the importance of the site culturally and ecclesiastically declined. The settlement was destroyed by English forces in 1398 that left it as a ruin, but it has continued as an important spiritual site to the present time.

The existing remains of the monastic site portray only part of its history at its peak that included workshops, guest houses, farm buildings, an infirmary, areas for manuscript writing and copying, and dwellings for monks. 

I spent several hours there just wondering around the ruins and walking in the areas around the lakes. Here are a few photos.

More Dublin

When in Dublin, I had the opportunity to see a number of things, but there are two things (other than the Book of Kells) that stand out as highlights.

Kilmainham Gaol
The Kilmainham Gaol played an important role in Irish history as a place where many leaders and activists from Irish rebellions were held, with several being executed in the prison. Built in 1796, it replaced the "old" gaol and in its early days public hangings took place at the front of the gaol. From about 1820 onward, a limited number of hangings took place at Kilmainham and, when these occurred, it was in a small cell set up specifically for hangings.

After being decommissioned as a prison in 1924, Kilmainham gradually started to deteriorate until the late 1950's when a group of former prisoners and guards worked to restore it. Eventually, it was taken over by the Irish government and now houses a museum on the history of Irish nationalism.

The guided tour through Kilmainham is well done and one quickly learns about the terrible conditions in which prisoners were held. There was no segregation in the cells, so men, women and children would be incarcerated together. Five people were held in each cell with the only source for heat and light being a small candle, which meant they were kept in damp, cold and dark conditions most of the time. Illness was widespread and many died as a result. When looking into the cells, one can only imagine the cramped and inhumane conditions under which five prisoners were held in a space of about 28 sq. metres.

While Kilmainham held people involved with various aspects of Irish rebellions, people were also imprisoned for petty theft such as vegetables from a garden. According to the guide, the youngest prisoner ever was supposed a five-year child. The gaol was also a holding facility for many prisoners who were shipped to Australia.

As one goes through Kilmainham, you can see name tags over cells of some people who are well known for their involvement with some type of "rebellious" activity, e.g. Eamon de Valera and Michael O'Hanrahan. Amid the horrific conditions in Kilmainham, however, money still carried privileges with it. While incarcerated at Kilmainham, Charles S. Parnell (political, landlord and land reformer) had a great deal more space and significantly more comfortable conditions simply because of his financial influence.

 

Guinness Storehouse
While I am not fan of the dark drink, a visit to the Guinness Storehouse is a must when in Dublin. Guinness is more than a popular drink - it is part of Irish culture.

Within a minute or so of entering the "Storehouse," one is exposed to all-things Guinness from the history of the company, how its brew is made, its advertising and marketing historically, photos of distinguished guests such as a couple of US presidents, learn how to pour your own Guinness from a tap, a well stocked gift shop and more. The experience culminates on the 7th floor of the building, which houses the Gravity Bar and a 360 degree view of the city. At the Gravity Bar, you can redeem your coupon for a free Guinness (actually it is not free because the price of admission is about 15 Euros).

The founder of brewery was Arthur Guinness - an entrepreneur, visionary and philanthropist. After receiving an inheritance, Guinness invested his money and operated a brewery outside of Dublin. In 1759, he moved into the city and set up his business. He took a 9,000 year lease on the 4-acre property at St. James Gate. With the 9,000 year lease, I think Arthur Guinness was either a true visionary or had a great sense of humour; or, maybe both.

 

Dublin and the West Wing

The West Wing
At Corrymeela, I live in a building called Coventry along with several other volunteers. Prior to arriving here in early January, the year-long volunteers had named the four housing wings in the building. I am pleased to say that I live in room # 1 in The West Wing. One of my favourite TV programs!

Dublin
On March 18, I made the journey by bus to Dublin, a place I have wanted to visit for some time. Arriving there around 11:30 am, it seemed that at least some of the St. Patrick's Day celebrations were about to break out at any time again; or maybe that's how people dress everyday.

Trinity College
After a short walk from the bus station to the city centre, the first stop was Trinity College. Created in 1592, the university has since established itself as a highly respected academic centre. In its development, Trinity was influenced by Oxford, Cambridge and some universities in Europe. From the outset, the college's library has been a priority and today it contains an incredible collection of original texts, including the Book of Kells.

I enjoyed the guided tour of the campus, but the main reason for visiting Trinity was to see the Books of Kells and the library. The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript containing the four Gospels of the New Testament along with various other texts and tables. It was created by Celtic monks around 800 and is a master piece of calligraphy. It is widely considered as Ireland's finest national treasure. The decoration on the texts combine traditional Christian iconography with ornate patterns. There are figures of humans, animals and mythical beasts as well as Celtic knots.

Photos were not allowed in the library or of the Book of Kells, which is understandable but also disappointing as there is no way words can come close to describing these things.

Bewley's Coffee
A long standing landmark on Grafton St. is Bewley's Cafe, where one can reputedly get the best coffee in Ireland hand roasted on site. The bakery and restaurant offer a great selection of sweets, breads, sandwiches, salads, pizzas, pastas. While I did not have a reservation, I managed to find a seat which seemed to be a significant accomplishment after observing how busy it was.

Neary's Pub
A short distance from Bewley's is Neary's Pub - a small, welcoming establishment recommended by a friend who used to live/work in Dublin. It was not a long stay at Neary's, but I did enjoy a Connemara Whiskey which is the closest I have come to a Scottish single malt in Ireland.The atmosphere was great and it was not overrun with customers. I'd like to return to Neary's the next time I'm in Dublin.

Temple Bar
Before heading to Dublin, several people suggested that I visit the Temple Bar area of the city. It's close to the city centre, so is easy to walk there. Temple Bar is known for its medieval street pattern with many narrow, cobblestone streets. It is promoted as the cultural centre of Dublin and has a lively nightlife popular with tourists. There are many arts and cultural organizations in Temple Bar along with an incredible array of cafes, restaurants and pubs. I strolled around this area for a while without any specific destination in mind (just to be clear - it was morning and I wasn't looking for a beer or whiskey) and very much enjoyed the sights. Some things were totally unexpected such as The Mongolian Barbeque restaurant. Walking through Temple Bar certainly leaves one with the impression that Ireland's reputation as a party place is well earned.

 

 

 

  Stay tuned for another post on Dublin and one on Glendalough.

Why the Work of Corrymeela is Needed

In this post, I'm going to write a bit more about the work of Corrymeela. To provide context, I am starting with two very short stories that illustrate why peace building, reconciliation and healing are still widely needed in Northern Ireland.

Lost Lives
When at Corrymeela two years ago, I learned of a book entitled "Lost Lives." The book contains the stories of the men, women and children who have lost their life as a result of the The Troubles. The liner of the book describes it as "the story of Northern Ireland as never told before; it is not concerned with the political bickering but with the lives of those who have suffered and the deaths that have resulted from more than three decades of conflict."

While I don't want to go on at length about the book, here are two stories.

#1245; November 21, 1974; William James Burns, South Belfast, Civilian, Protestant, 39, married, 5 children, bakery worker. "The victim's body was found on the back seat of his Hillman Avenger car at Apsley Street off Ormeau Avenue. The inquest was told he left for work as usual at 6:30 pm for a night shift at the Inglis bakery in Eliza Street. His body was found by workmen, 12 hours after he left home. It is believed he was abducted in the immediate vicinity of the Ormeau Road bakery as he was about to enter the premises. In June 1975, his wife told the inquest her husband was a Protestant who had been threatened several times about working in the Catholic Markets area. He was from Davarr Avenue in Dundonald, on the eastern outskirts of Belfast."

#2125; July 28, 1979; James Joseph McCann, Armagh, Civilian, Catholic, 20, single. "The young many from Parkside, Portadown, was shot by a UVF gunman from a red Ford Escort as he walked along Obins Street in the town. He managed to stagger to the doorway of a nearby public house. He remained conscious although bleeding heavily and died soon after admission to Craigavon Hospital. A Protestant friend of the victim said the gunman could not have picked a more innocent victim, adding 'He was a decent, hard-working, inoffensive young man.' A Portadown man was jailed for life for the killing. The court was told that he was shot in retaliation for the murder of former RUC reservist and Salvation Army bandman Jim Wright 24 hours earlier at his home in Corcrain Drive, Portadown. A son of Jim Wright and the local Salvation Army commanding officer visited the McCann home to express their sympathy. The judge said: 'Mr. McCann was singled out not for any involvement in any offenses, but because he was a Roman Catholic walking in a Roman Catholic area. It was unjustifiable murder.' James McCann's funeral took place at the Church of St. John the Baptist at Dumcree." 

Why Corrymeela is Needed
There are 3,712 stories in "Lost Lives" and not all the deaths from The Troubles have been recorded yet. Obviously, tens of thousands of lives have been affected - families, friends, neighbours, communities and, in fact, an entire nation and beyond. The fallout from these deaths include trauma, communities in conflict and a myriad of other social, political, economic and sectarian issues that continue to divide communities.

For more than 35 years, Corrymeela has been playing a key role in providing a safe place for people to come as part of the healing and reconciliation process. I've been privileged to work with a mix of groups over the past three months via facilitated sessions, workshops, conversations and shared meals on topics and issues that often seem to be a barrier to a peaceful way of life. On two different weekends, I worked with groups of about 45-50 people - one group of adults aged 30 + and the other group comprised of teens. These people came from communities in the border areas of both Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. They were participating in a program focused on networking and communicating across borders.

The concept of helping facilitate a connection among people seems so basic, but it has not been the experience of many people living in these border communities. Both the teen and adult groups talked about the importance of the program in building trust, creating understanding through communication and breaking down barriers. Many talked about how they had more in common with people across the border than they ever expected. The groups used story telling, music and games to facilitate these connections. Even sharing a conversation over a cup of tea provides opportunities for communication that very much can be the first step in a process of peace building and healing.

It's important to not leave the impression that all groups coming to Corrymeela have the same experience and there are many programs that are designed to provide other opportunities and experiences. However, these kinds of things happen at Corrymeela on a regular basis. For example, other groups may participate in a program targeted specifically at supporting people who are facing very painful issues of trauma or living in conflict ridden neighbourhoods.

People sometimes ask me "why" I have come here and I think the above provides the answer. It's important work and I have some skills that can be applied to this work.

Out and About a Bit More

Meal Names
In the early years of my life, I was used to daily meals being called breakfast, dinner and supper. At some point, the three meals became known as breakfast, lunch and dinner. Anything between meals has been/is known as a snack for as long as I can remember. In Northern Ireland (don't know about the rest of the UK and the Irish Republic), there is a different twist for the naming of meals. Breakfast and lunch are the same as used at home. What we normally refer to as dinner at home is often called the same thing, but many people also call this meal "tea" even though it is a complete meal. And, "supper" is eaten in the evening around 9:00 to 10:00 pm. It generally consists of toast and jam with tea. It is not a full meal as might be expected by the name. So, there you have it.

What is Ulster
Northern Ireland is often referred to as "Ulster," even though it is not technically correct. Ulster is one of the provinces of Ireland dating back several hundred years. The definition or area of Ulster was fluid for centuries until James I established more specific geographic areas for each of the provinces. In 1920, Ireland was partitioned into two territories - North and South with the border interestingly passing through the province of Ulster. Northern Ireland was defined as including six counties (Antrim, Armagh, Down, Fermanagh, Londonderry and Tyrone) plus two cities (Belfast and Derry aka Londonderry). To confuse matters a bit more, three other counties in Ulster (Donegal, Cavan and Monaghan) were assigned to the Irish Free State or what is known today as the Republic of Ireland. Despite being a widely used term, Ulster has no official function for local government purposes in either jurisdiction. You would need somewhat of a detailed map to see where the areas are located.


In Northern Ireland, Ulster is commonly used and there are at least two major tourist attractions that use this name - the Ulster Museum in Belfast and the Ulster Folk and Transport Museum located a few miles east of Belfast. I have been to the Ulster Museum three times and really enjoyed it - modern and free admission. The museum has many excellent displays and one in particular that I have very educational is the section on The Troubles. Recently, I checked out the folk museum and it was well worth the time.

Ulster Folk Museum 
The museum is a significant undertaking and is comprised of two main areas - town and rural. It endeavours to portray life and traditions in the early 20th century. There are a variety of old building - churches, houses, shops and businesses - that have been collected from different places in Ireland and Northern Ireland. These were rebuilt on the museum grounds brick-by-brick; an impressive undertaking. The museum covers an area of about 69 hectares or 170 acres. When I visited about 10 days ago, many of the building were staffed by people in period clothing who were available to answer questions about the specific building and/or traditional activities.  


I visited virtually every building that was open on site and found it to be an enjoyable experience. While a few building were under repair of some type, most were open and accessible. It was fun to engage people in conversation and found the man at the coal shop to be especially talkative. Most of the open buildings had coal fires in the fireplaces principally to keep the moisture level low and prevent the interior from deteriorating. Coal is still widely used in Northern Ireland and even at Corrymeela it is used in the fireplaces along with some wood at other times. There is not a lot of forest area in Northern Ireland compared to many parts of Canada, so it is not surprising that wood is not a major source of heat. Most hardware stores and some other retail businesses sell coal by the bag. Also, many people still use peat bricks as a source of heat. When on the road trip to Donegal, there was much evidence of peat bricks having been cut from peat bogs and stacked for drying. In the evening in most small towns, it is common to smell coal smoke from stoves and fireplaces.

Many of the houses in the folk museum have thatch roofs, which are quite attractive. I have also seen this in some rural areas, but I understand that the art of roof thatching is a disappearing trade. 

I think the best way to explain the folk museum is to post pictures pictures, so here goes.

 

 

Out and About in Northern Ireland

Introduction
If you have been following this blog, you will know that I try to get out and explore a bit of Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland whenever possible. As with any place, it's often easy to miss interesting things close at hand.

Ballycastle
Corrymeela is situated on a hill overlooking the ocean on the edge of the town of Ballycastle, which has a population of 5,000. Located in an area where there is a notable amount of farming, Ballycastle is a bit of a service and shopping centre for adjacent smaller communities and rural areas. In addition to retail services, schools, a medical centre, numerous pubs, a golf course and more, the local council (government) offices are located here. More serious shopping and services (e.g. movie theatre) are available in the notably larger town of Coleraine about a 30-35 minute drive away.

Having grown up on a farm, I like the atmosphere in this area and also enjoy spending time in town on some of my days off. On virtually every occasion when I have been in town, there has been a good reminder that this is a farming area when at least one large farm tractor has driven down the main street. Often the tractors are pulling a farm implement of some type, most likely a  trailer with a load of manure!!

I find people to be quite friendly here and it is usually easy to strike up a conversation with locals. Recently, I stopped at a hardware store to pick up masking tape and the owner and I quickly engaged in a conversation. He is one of the few people who identified me as being from Canada before I told him where I am from. He has been to Canada and knows quite a bit about eastern Canada, especially Newfoundland. On that same trip, I headed back to Corrymeela after stopping at the Co-op grocery store and picking up some oranges at a great local fruit stand. On the way, I stopped at what I consider the best coffee shop in Ballycastle - Thyme & Co. When there, an older man (I`d say in his 80s) struck up a conversation with me. He was very interested in where I`m from and told me a few times that he had been in Toronto. Near the end of the conversation, I asked him if he has lived in this area all his life. His dry and witty response was "so far." These kinds of things seem to happen regularly and are very much part of the charm of this place and other small towns.

 
Bonamargy Friary (pronounced Bun-na-Mairge)
After leaving the downtown Ballycastle, I stopped at the Bonamargy site (remnants of builds, grave sites and head stones) established by Franciscans about 1500. While the main stone building, other structures and headstones are deteriorating, the friary is a fascinating place to explore, read a few of the headstones and generally soak up a site with several hundred years of history. One headstone, in particular, stood out with its Celtic cross.

To further note the importance of the friary, a local woman produces a varied assortment of hand-made chocolates and truffles under the trade name of Bonamargy Chocolates. One of my goals before heading home is sample these high-quality Belgian chocolate delights.

The Walk to Town and Back

The walk from Corrymeela into Ballycastle and back always is a great experience even when it is raining. The views are more spectacular on the sunny, clear days, but walking along or on the beach with the constant breaking of waves in the background provide a really peaceful walk at any time. On the walk to town, one can see the houses in one area of town, a background of fields and  hills in another direction, the ocean, the harbour and Rathlin Island. On the return journey, most of the some of the same things can be seen along with the impressive coastal rock/cliff formation called Fairhead. I could take pictures of Fairhead every time I walk to/from town and never tire of them.

Small Town Northern Ireland
In my very brief description above of Ballycastle, it may be possible to get a small glimpse of "small town" Northern Ireland. I feel that people who have not had the opportunity to spend time (more than a day visit or driving through) in small towns are missing out on great experiences. In virtually every place I have traveled in the world, small town experiences have been so great and Northern Ireland small towns certainly provide lots of interesting things.

At the risk of generalizing, here are a few things I have observed or experienced in small towns here. Most have a town centre where much of the local traffic flows through, sometimes via a traffic circle (roundabout) or what is called a diamond. As one would expect, many of the stores and services are located along one or two main streets. Regardless of the town size, there almost always seems to be at least a few pubs, chemists (pharmacy), hair dressing shops, meat shops, etc., etc. While there are many other business, those mentioned seem to be what one will see consistently. In Ballycastle, for example, there are about 10 pubs/drinking establishments within a few minutes of each other and, while fewer in number, there are more chemists than one would think necessary in such a small town.

When asking about the history or background of various towns, one of the things I have learned is that most towns seem to be labeled as "Catholic" or "Protestant" towns and either a "loyalist" or "republican" town. This does not mean that a town's population is exclusive to one or the other religion or to a particular ideology. So often, however, a town will be identified with one of these labels.

It's pretty easy to identify many of the "loyalist" towns because there will usually be many Union Jack flags flying throughout the town on both public and private property. And, it's common to see large pictures of Queen Elizabeth hanging prominently on public and private builds. A closer look will also reveal that most of the churches in that town will be Protestant (e.g. Presbyterian, Free Presbyterian, Methodist). Another commonly seen sight will be an Orangemen's or Orange Order hall.

From my experience, it is much more difficult to identify Catholic towns, except possibly in checking for the churches and the absence of the symbols one tends to see in the loyalist/Protestant towns. Ballycastle is labeled as a Catholic and republican town, but nothing dramatic stands out to me that would indicate this other than the absence of other indicators.

In making these observations, I realize there is a risk of generalizing, but that is not my intention. It`s simply a matter of sharing some things that I have encountered.

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