La Cruz de Ferro & Other Memorials
There are numerous memorials along the Camino and many of them have been installed in honour of someone in particular such as a friend or family member who had walked or maybe had a connection to the Camino. In same cases, it seems that the person being memorialized had died on the Camino.
Another way of leaving a memorial is placing stones on crosses or the hundreds of cement pillars that serve as distance and directional markers.
Churches and Cathedrals
One of the big attractions of walking a pilgrimage route is being able to stop at churches and cathedrals. On the Camino, we were rewarded with many opportunities to spend time in silence, prayer and reflection in a diversity of churches. The cathedrals generally were too busy for times of silence, prayer and reflection. Ranging in size and appearance, some churches were ornately decorated and others were plain and simple. My preference was for the latter.
We visited cathedrals in the larger centres of Pamplona, Logrono, Santo Domingo de Calzada, Burgos, Leon and Santiago. We did not get to visit the cathedral in Astorga because it was closed when we were there. All the cathedrals are impressive in their architecture and unique features, with those in Pamplona, Burgos, Leon and Santiago standing out. In some cases, there is an admission fee for at least some parts of the cathedral, but the one in Logrono was free admission....it also was the smallest of the six we visited. Personally, I have a resistance to paying admission to enter a church or cathedral, but felt it was especially worthwhile in Leon and Santiago. To me the most significant feature of the Leon cathedral is its beautiful stained glass, while just about all aspects of the cathedral in Santiago were inspiring. In Santiago, there was free admission to the main floor of the cathedral, but paid admission required for the museum and the roof tour. The roof tour at sunset provided spectacular views of the city. One thing that especially appealed to me with some of the cathedrals and churches were the cloisters as I found these open spaces relaxing and provided a kind of separation from the what is going elsewhere.
One thing that often stood out on the Camino was being able to see a church visible on the landscape well before we reached many towns and villages. Church towers and/or spires would be the highest structure in town and their prominence seemed to be further emphasized because of they had been built on hills. In lots of places we would see the church tower or spire before other buildings became clearly visible.
Below - notice the stork nests on one the churches - quite common in parts of the country.
In Santo Domingo del Calzada, one of the most unlikely exhibits in the cathedral is a chicken coop at the back of the church containing two live fowl. The story of the chickens is quite entertaining. Legend tells of a German Pilgrim named Hugonell walking to Santiago with his parents, when they decided to rest at an inn in Santo Domingo. The daughter of the inn owner immediately fell in love with Hugonell; however, her feelings were not reciprocated. In anger, the girl placed a silver cup in his luggage and accused him of theft. Thieves at that time were punished by hanging, which was to be his fate. While saddened by his death, his parents continued their pilgrimage, and after arriving in Santiago de Compostela, began their return journey to visit the grave of their dead son. When they arrived in Santo Domingo, they found their son still hanging in the gallows, miraculously alive. Hugonell, excited to see them, said “Santo Domingo brought me back to life, please go to the Mayor´s house and ask him to take me down”. The parents went quickly to the Mayor´s house and told him of the miracle. The incredulous Mayor, who was preparing to have dinner with friends, responded: “That boy is as alive as these two roast chickens we are about to eat,” and suddenly, the chickens came to life, sprouted feathers and beaks and began to crow. So, to this day there is a saying about the town which goes: “Santo Domingo of the Way, where the roosters crow after being roasted”. There is a chicken theme throughout the town.
Pilgrims' Mass in Santiago
Every day, a pilgrims' mass is held in the cathedral in Santiago. On a few important religious days, the mass includes the lighting and spectacular swinging of the large Botafumeiro. Incense is burned in the swinging metal container or censor.
Our last day in Santiago coincided with All Saints' Day, which is one of the days when the lighting and swinging of the Botafumeiro occurs - an amazing experience. I have inserted a few pictures below, but still photos cannot capture the experience. This is featured in one of the scenes near the end of the movie The Way, if you want to check what is involved.
La Cruz de Ferro (iron cross) is a notable landmark and considered as the most significant memorial on the Camino. It sits at the highest point of the route and we reached it on an overcast, damp day after an elevation gain of 600 metres (almost 2,000) on day 26. It is here that hundreds (likely thousands) of
pilgrims stop each year to leave something small as a personal memory, prayer,
reflection or memorial for a family member or friend. The item most commonly left is a stone (plain, painted or with a name on it), but people also leave a picture, bandana, a poem or note, a small cross or other item of personal significance.
All three of us anticipated this stop on the Camino and had prepared for a time of prayer, reflection and silence. In my case, I left stones for my children, other family members and friends. It was a deep personal and spiritual experience for me.
We spent a long time there and, while there were a few others around, it was quiet,
which served to enhance our time. We spent some time with a few other pilgrims there and also had an interesting and tasty lunch (beef jerky, potato chips, apple pieces and chocolate) before heading to our destination for the night.
Another way of leaving a memorial is placing stones on crosses or the hundreds of cement pillars that serve as distance and directional markers.
Greeted by a friend!!
One of the big attractions of walking a pilgrimage route is being able to stop at churches and cathedrals. On the Camino, we were rewarded with many opportunities to spend time in silence, prayer and reflection in a diversity of churches. The cathedrals generally were too busy for times of silence, prayer and reflection. Ranging in size and appearance, some churches were ornately decorated and others were plain and simple. My preference was for the latter.
We visited cathedrals in the larger centres of Pamplona, Logrono, Santo Domingo de Calzada, Burgos, Leon and Santiago. We did not get to visit the cathedral in Astorga because it was closed when we were there. All the cathedrals are impressive in their architecture and unique features, with those in Pamplona, Burgos, Leon and Santiago standing out. In some cases, there is an admission fee for at least some parts of the cathedral, but the one in Logrono was free admission....it also was the smallest of the six we visited. Personally, I have a resistance to paying admission to enter a church or cathedral, but felt it was especially worthwhile in Leon and Santiago. To me the most significant feature of the Leon cathedral is its beautiful stained glass, while just about all aspects of the cathedral in Santiago were inspiring. In Santiago, there was free admission to the main floor of the cathedral, but paid admission required for the museum and the roof tour. The roof tour at sunset provided spectacular views of the city. One thing that especially appealed to me with some of the cathedrals and churches were the cloisters as I found these open spaces relaxing and provided a kind of separation from the what is going elsewhere.
Cathedrals
Pamplona
Pamplona
Logrono
Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Burgos
Burgos
Leon
Leon
Leon
Leon
Astorga
Santiago
Santiago
Santiago
Santiago
Santiago
Even though we stopped at many churches, we were surprised at how many were not open on such an important pilgrimage route. It seems they still conducted regular services, but there was no sign of life during the day when we were walking. I do not want to overstate this because I expect there are reasons for them being closed, but it was disappointing. I wonder if this would be the same during the summer when the Camino is at its busiest. It is important to mention that most towns and villages also seemed quite deserted during the day.
One thing that often stood out on the Camino was being able to see a church visible on the landscape well before we reached many towns and villages. Church towers and/or spires would be the highest structure in town and their prominence seemed to be further emphasized because of they had been built on hills. In lots of places we would see the church tower or spire before other buildings became clearly visible.
Below - notice the stork nests on one the churches - quite common in parts of the country.
A Few Churches
We attended mass a number of times and on at least three occasions there was special pilgrims' blessing in a separate ceremony following mass. While the mass was conducted in Latin and Spanish, the pilgrims' blessing was presented in a few different languages including English. In exploring the town of Rabanal del Camino in the afternoon, we visited the parish Church of Santa Maria. When there, a priest from the adjacent Benedictine monastery asked Phil if he would read a passage in English during the evening Vespers. A few others were also asked to read in their language. It was a very neat service. An order of monks from Bavaria have taken up residence there and lead the Gregorian chant and Vespers each evening that always includes a pilgrims' blessing.
On one of our two evenings in Burgos, we wandered into the large plaza in front of the cathedral and within a few minutes of arriving there a wedding party came out of one cathedral entrance. There was a bit of a celebration just outside the entrance and we had a great view of the festivities - another unexpected Camino surprise.
In Santo Domingo del Calzada, one of the most unlikely exhibits in the cathedral is a chicken coop at the back of the church containing two live fowl. The story of the chickens is quite entertaining. Legend tells of a German Pilgrim named Hugonell walking to Santiago with his parents, when they decided to rest at an inn in Santo Domingo. The daughter of the inn owner immediately fell in love with Hugonell; however, her feelings were not reciprocated. In anger, the girl placed a silver cup in his luggage and accused him of theft. Thieves at that time were punished by hanging, which was to be his fate. While saddened by his death, his parents continued their pilgrimage, and after arriving in Santiago de Compostela, began their return journey to visit the grave of their dead son. When they arrived in Santo Domingo, they found their son still hanging in the gallows, miraculously alive. Hugonell, excited to see them, said “Santo Domingo brought me back to life, please go to the Mayor´s house and ask him to take me down”. The parents went quickly to the Mayor´s house and told him of the miracle. The incredulous Mayor, who was preparing to have dinner with friends, responded: “That boy is as alive as these two roast chickens we are about to eat,” and suddenly, the chickens came to life, sprouted feathers and beaks and began to crow. So, to this day there is a saying about the town which goes: “Santo Domingo of the Way, where the roosters crow after being roasted”. There is a chicken theme throughout the town.
Pilgrims' Mass in Santiago
Every day, a pilgrims' mass is held in the cathedral in Santiago. On a few important religious days, the mass includes the lighting and spectacular swinging of the large Botafumeiro. Incense is burned in the swinging metal container or censor.
Our last day in Santiago coincided with All Saints' Day, which is one of the days when the lighting and swinging of the Botafumeiro occurs - an amazing experience. I have inserted a few pictures below, but still photos cannot capture the experience. This is featured in one of the scenes near the end of the movie The Way, if you want to check what is involved.
