Welcome to Kathmandu - Sensory Overload
As with many of my recent international travels, the trip to Nepal was as a team leader with Habitat for Humanity. I really love the combination of doing important work and being able to experience another culture in ways not normally available when traveling as a tourist.
Arriving in Kathmandu in the late evening, one logically expects it to be dark, but expectations were exceeded. Soon after entering the airport terminal, I noticed that it was much darker than what we expect at an airport in North America and this became even more evident when traveling into the city, where there are few street lights. Yes, the Lonely Planet guide talks about the electricity challenges of Kathmandu, but there's nothing like firsthand experience.
After almost 40 hours of traveling, including a 12-hour layover in Hong Kong, it was great to finally arrive in Nepal. It was reasonably quick to retrieve my checked bag, get through Customs and Immigration and into the arrivals area. Without much effort, I quickly located the person holding a Habitat for Humanity sign and within a couple of minutes we were off to the hotel, which was located in the city's main tourist area of Thamel.
Following a later-than-normal breakfast the next morning (9:00 am), I headed out to do a bit of exploring in Thamel. I had a bit more than three days before my team leader responsibilities kicked in. I left the hotel confident in where I was headed, mostly because I generally have a good sense of direction and also because I had a good map. While I did not get lost, it didn't take long before I was a bit confused. The standard street sign landmarks are non-existent. So, this meant buildings and other things had to be used as landmarks. This worked fine, but sometimes things were moved.
Within a couple of minutes from the hotel, the sensory overload kicked in - the constant sound of horns, chaotic vehicle and pedestrian traffic, a barrage of signs, and just about anything you can imagine being sold by street vendors (touts) and shops. In addition, there were some very interesting smells, especially as the temperatures increased.
Back to the topic of electricity. My research told me there are regular "blackouts" and it was very interesting to see power outage schedules posted in the lobby of the hotel. The point about scheduled power outages was driven home on the second morning in Kathmandu as I was in the shower when the lights went out! Sometimes, there are unscheduled blackouts! After that, I always carried a light with me when going to the bathroom or going outside after dark.
Being a Tourist
In a few words and pictures, its only possible to scratch the surface of what Kathmandu has to offer. There is so, so much more than what is described here. That might mean a return trip.
Before heading to Nepal, I was told about two great places to visit in Kathmandu - a restaurant and a bookstore. I found these places within the first couple of days and returned a few times. I also recommend them for your next visit to Nepal.
As with many of my recent international travels, the trip to Nepal was as a team leader with Habitat for Humanity. I really love the combination of doing important work and being able to experience another culture in ways not normally available when traveling as a tourist.
Arriving in Kathmandu in the late evening, one logically expects it to be dark, but expectations were exceeded. Soon after entering the airport terminal, I noticed that it was much darker than what we expect at an airport in North America and this became even more evident when traveling into the city, where there are few street lights. Yes, the Lonely Planet guide talks about the electricity challenges of Kathmandu, but there's nothing like firsthand experience.
After almost 40 hours of traveling, including a 12-hour layover in Hong Kong, it was great to finally arrive in Nepal. It was reasonably quick to retrieve my checked bag, get through Customs and Immigration and into the arrivals area. Without much effort, I quickly located the person holding a Habitat for Humanity sign and within a couple of minutes we were off to the hotel, which was located in the city's main tourist area of Thamel.
Following a later-than-normal breakfast the next morning (9:00 am), I headed out to do a bit of exploring in Thamel. I had a bit more than three days before my team leader responsibilities kicked in. I left the hotel confident in where I was headed, mostly because I generally have a good sense of direction and also because I had a good map. While I did not get lost, it didn't take long before I was a bit confused. The standard street sign landmarks are non-existent. So, this meant buildings and other things had to be used as landmarks. This worked fine, but sometimes things were moved.
Within a couple of minutes from the hotel, the sensory overload kicked in - the constant sound of horns, chaotic vehicle and pedestrian traffic, a barrage of signs, and just about anything you can imagine being sold by street vendors (touts) and shops. In addition, there were some very interesting smells, especially as the temperatures increased.
Back to the topic of electricity. My research told me there are regular "blackouts" and it was very interesting to see power outage schedules posted in the lobby of the hotel. The point about scheduled power outages was driven home on the second morning in Kathmandu as I was in the shower when the lights went out! Sometimes, there are unscheduled blackouts! After that, I always carried a light with me when going to the bathroom or going outside after dark.
A couple of normal street scenes
Being a Tourist
For the morning of my second day, I arranged for a guide to take me to two well-known sites Swayambhunath and Bouddha Nath. I'm going to provide a very brief description below, but encourage you to do some research to learn more about these sites.
The first stop was Swayambhunath (also know as the Monkey Temple) - it is an ancient religious site that sits at the top of a hill in the Kathmandu Valley. It is a sacred Buddhist pilgrimage site and is in a complex with a mix of shrines and temples, with many vendors doing business throughout the site. Monkeys are ever present and one has to be cautious about not getting too close and setting yourself up for a nasty encounter. Having been forewarned, that did not happen!
Note the dog in what seems like a less than comfortable sleeping spot.
The next stop was Bouddha Nath Stupa. In brief, stupa literally means a mound-like structure containing Buddhist relics of significance and is used as a place of worship. Buddha Nath is among the largest stupa in south Asia and is a focal point for Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal. It is located on the ancient trade route to Tibet and a place where Tibetan merchants stopped to offer prayers. It has also been a destination for many refugees entering Nepal from Tibet. It is likely the best place in the Kathmandu Valley to observe Tibetan lifestyle. After the busy atmosphere of Swayambhunath, I find it peaceful at Bouddha Nath and enjoyed just being there. We took lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Stupa and surrounding area.
Durbar Squares
Before heading to eastern Nepal for the Habitat project, we visited Patan Durbar Square. In Kathmandu and the surrounding area, there are three Durbar Squares, all of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Durbar Square is a generic term for plazas and courtyards opposite royal palaces in Nepal. Prior to unification, the country consisted of small kingdoms and these plazas are the remnants of the old kingdoms. Each one has impressive buildings and other features of historical significance. Today, each Durbar Square has all the trappings of any significant tourist site - shops, vendors, restaurants and more.
After completing the Habitat project, we returned to Kathmandu and visited the two other Durbar Squares - Kathmandu and Bhaktapur. While each has its own unique features, there is a great deal of similarity in architecture and craftsmanship. Here are a few pictures of the three plazas.
Patan
Bhaktapur
Bhaktapur
Kathmandu
Kathmandu
In a few words and pictures, its only possible to scratch the surface of what Kathmandu has to offer. There is so, so much more than what is described here. That might mean a return trip.
Before heading to Nepal, I was told about two great places to visit in Kathmandu - a restaurant and a bookstore. I found these places within the first couple of days and returned a few times. I also recommend them for your next visit to Nepal.
Don't tell me how educated you are, tell me how much you traveled.
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